_Matt_

Update in this comedy sketch. Inner/outer track rods did not solve it. It did it driving forward off the drive this time. Will have to wait until 20th now as that's when it is booked into a local 80/90s bosch specialist garage. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

If you do end up buying from Insta or Europe only do PayPal Goods and Services and offer to add the fee so they don't miss out and as a goodwill gesture to accomodate your requirements. If they so no then not worth the risk. Yeah I see it from the sellers point of view that you might fraudulently claim as well but that's just a price of selling a valuable item imo and surely if the item is well described, photographed to high detail and the package insured and sent appropriately there should be little room for the buyer to mess about.

I found the alpine speaker on its own with the additional ring was slighly too big for the hole, adding the ring made things worse. I managed to push the speak in someway but it isn't flush. I'm back to the drawing board. If I woke up tomorrow with an endless supply of money I'd buy these and probably disconnect the dash speakers. Maybe there is some man maths in there by not buying more dash speakers that those door pads seem cheaper... or not.

yep that's mine. For me if the enoyment starts to dwindle I'm ready to tap out... I don't mind the bills (to a point and would like a decent gap between big ones). That said when I go and look at it I do like it still as a thing to look at. Cars booked in at a local 80/90s (and k jet) specialist on 20th so we'll see how it all pans out.

You're right James. I have actually listed it for sale (after fixing the issue, wouldn't sell it with issue) and at the price it is almost only 50% of what i have spent including buying. I didn't think i'd ever sell it when I started out. Perhaps things will change post wheel alignment and the car is back in good shape. But now we're going into winter and I won't use the car again. I paid for a 3 or 4 week ad on autotrader and will let it run, that said I know it is not the right time to sell a toy such as the corrado. The corrado is pretty well sorted in many ways - top end rebuild, 263 cams, new brake lines, new fuel lines, new paint (windows out), new calipers, new bushes/suspension, the floor pan and underbody has also been renovated. My only regret is I did not powdercoat the frames as did not know about it back then so would have to do a winter project to do that one day. I've also got a mk3 16v and a mk2 16v, mk3 has also had a lot of restoritive work (powdercoat frames, bushes, suspension, all body kit has been off and a few areas of welding. It is red and needs paint due to lacquer peel on roof and bonnet to finish). Mk2 is a few steps behind the mk3. Perhaps naively I thought my Corrado was 90% there and i could use it whilst working on others but this year it has been a bugger chasing that noise, slowed me down heavily on the other cars and I just think where will it ever end. But that thought process is coming from a down in the dumps place. I had planned to sell mk3 eventually as that is a more "investor friendly" car with low miles and they are getting some momentum on prices these days.

Very good question. Mine are too tight a fit to fully seat in the dash, I refuse to cut the dash and one left side rattles so I am now considering other options. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Thanks Fla. A shame as the trackrods prior are only 3 years old/less than 5k. I've left the clips off the ends so I dont end up in the same place come new alignment. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Wow quite an update! Kieran Rado and his data makes for great reading and analysis. Sounds like you've had a bad old time with it but got there in the end. I've had a crap year with mine and positively hate the thing these days. Assuming I fixed it I may get enthusiasm back. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Well, an update. I went to have to car aligned this week thinking it was just that causing my issue. The garage said the track rods did not seem right for the car and there was some dodgy-ness with the gaitors. I cant be sure it wasn't them that caused this or the people who aligned it back in April, however as I understand it the cable ties (ideally proper clips but nk space to install when sub frame on car) should have been removed for the alignment otherwise the boot just twists with the track rod arm. The gaitors were hanging off the rack on one side so perhaps my inner track rod joint had failed causing the clonk. No movement at 9 and 3 on the wheel though. Anyway I went ahead and changed the inner and and outer track rods today and will get it aligned next week. Fingers crossed it solves the issue. There is nothing else left to change now. I did make special effort to ensure the little tube that runs from each side seated nicely in the gaitor. Not a fun job with limited space. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Yup :( could keep the bit you cut out to weld back in if you get rid I guess. Not a huge issue either way but for me it would upset me to see something cut out. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Good stuff always good to have a spare. If you get stuck post up or message me happy to help. Once you get the cap off you'll see it - there is a spring and rod in there as well but it's no different to a spring loaded pen.

I did that job and did a guide in my car's thread however the photos went missing with the forum. I use a stanley knife to cut the seal which allowed me to get at the circuit board. My solder joints were dry so i cleaned them up and applied new solder. Push it back together with some waterproof sealent and it's be fine for about 4 years. Alternatively Vince will do it if you post to him for I guess £50 but that was 4 years ago so probably £300 today with inflation 😄

I'm with you there. Cars booked in to solve the clonk and a wheel alignment. They are a tough sell the Corrados so suspect I will be waiting weeks for my financial loss to materialise. A shame but I prefer my mk2 16v (wash your mouth out on this forum) and was wowed by one in the same spec at Silverstone in the paddock so will focus there instead. I actually prefer my mk3 16v as well but will be getting rid of that and hoping to try out a different brand and sports car next time. Midlife vw crisis ending (lol probably true). Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Nice one Dox and good luck getting it out on the road. Nice colour too. I'm attempting to sell mine ... on autotrader etc.

There is part 2. This car is a love hate relationship but it does look pretty sweet as in the video in my eyes. Messaged Vince yesterday when I got back from Silverstone about the issue and ringing next week to book in and he said check the gearbox mount. He's great for getting back to me on a Sunday. Car is annoying me right now and since April. Can't get an alignment until solved and can't push it for fear of it falling apart. It was nice to have keyo in my rear view mirror yesterday enroute to Silverstone - these cars have such presence on the road but must admit an oak green mk2 16v stole the show in my eyes on the day... a car I have waiting in the wings once mk3 16v finished and this white corrado not demanding such attention. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

OK I've done another test with the chocks (will be uploaded in about 40min). Didnt do it though. Wish I could get it on video. Will try again after taking it for a longer drive. I will have a look at the exhaust again. Stealth did push it back a bit back in April as it was hitting the beam. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Side tracked today with house chores but made a video trying to make it clonk with a ramp but nope. Hopefully a bit later I will do the following: Strip and clean rear brakes. They squeek so not releasing fully. Check driveshaft bolts Re torque top mounts for the millionth time (lol). Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I'll check tomorrow but this happened on the original driveshafts as well. What about the gearbox or clutch fork? Its probably going to need specialist attention at this rate. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I've not powdercoated on the corrado. I didnt really know about it when I started out. I have checked torque on all bolts though. It is odd how a long journey causes it. I read on vw vortex a vw service bulletin describing my situation to be dry bearings and installation of a new bearings. It could well be thst as this started after new bearings were installed amongst other things. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

For god sake it's still clonking on occasional reversing. The car has been fine but took it to Silverstone today and reversing into spot - crack. It actually more of a crack noise than clonk. The car has been on a shacker plate and drives fine straight ahead. My thoughts are now perhaps sticking rear calipers - they so squeek when I am driving - a job I havent got round to. Or cracked subframe? But surely that would make noises all the time. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Well spotted ;) I wasn't sure as had an awful time with some topran stubs axles where the abs sensor would not clear the abs ring. Swapped out for meyle and found the hole for the abs sensor had been machined in the wrong place. I tired swapping the gold ring around and and loads of other things to conclude the issue. Never buy topran. I knew this but they were on offer so I took a punt. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Tell a lie they still have 2 so perhaps are managing inventory but an utter butt F to pay 25 euro + post for two! https://stockpiezasvw-audi.com/en/2107-genuine-191501639b-cover.html

for me i paid £300 cash for Alternator, Starter motor and PAS refurb but think i got a discount for doing all at once. He sourced oem parts from all over Europe and got the original stickers as well. Wishbones - sometimes there are issues with non oem hitting the ARB as clearence is tight. Believe Lemforder or OEM is the way to go. Bolts is quite a substantial cost I had not bargained for. I could hardly re-use any of them and it looks a bit pants against freshly powdercoated frames! And that gold ring in the pictures is obsolete but needed for sub axle rebuild work. I bought the last 4 listed on some French site earlier this year 😞

Also if you have OEM wishbones drop them off for powdercoating rather than replace with powdercoating. The bushes press in easily with a bench vice or if you're fairly local to me (Herts, i think you might be?) you're welcome to use my 20t press (or i'll do it :). I went for R32 bushes on the rears of the wishbone. https://www.facebook.com/SPSUSPENSIONLTD did the Koni coilovers on my mk2 https://www.facebook.com/carparts.buryfarm.3 are great for refurbing components such as the alternator. There are pics of my stuff on there - great job.

I've done/in the process of doing this on my mk2 16v and mk3 16v and have done the work minus powder coating on the Corrado (silly boy but in my defence i didn't know about it at the time and it was my first renovation). Keyo on here is a fountain of knowledge re parts and parts diagrams and I am sure will post and support but what I did, aside from ask Keyo for help, was to study the parts diagrams i.e. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/vw/RDW/COR/076 which is basically ETKA online and jot down the part numbers of all the bits I needed for each section I was renovating. I actually found it a really enjoyable aspect of the renovation but less so finding out most parts are obsolete. Sometimes you get lucky and LLL parts stock the items for reasonable cost but other times you have to get resourceful and start hunting the internet for part numbers. If you search in google with quotations i.e. "535201075AA" google will find you results of items matching the exact part number. For bolts and washers etc I found a lot of things needed were obsolete so instead I would look for the bolt specs on the internet instead. Always make sure you go for 10.9 tensile and not the usual 8.8 tensile. VW chassis side bolts are always 10.9. Also get yourself and thread and pitch tool so you can measure the bolts that are on the car and get the right non oem replacements. Avoid crappy brands - topran for example are utter rubbish. I have just bought some stub axles for the mk3 golf (exact same part nos as Corrado) and found the hole of the ABS sensor was slightly in the wrong place meaing the sensor fouled against the abs ring. I replaced with Meyle items and they were fine. Try not to bulk at the price of quality brands - bosch, lemforder - as I can almost guarentee if you don't end up buying them first you will do after buying something from topran/jp group etc. Also note the mk3 5x100 golf rear axle and front drivetrain is identical to the Corrado. You can get parts from facebook breakers i.e Leo GS for reasonable prices. Lastly use LLL Parts, Autodoc and Mecatechnic.com for parts. Heritage is usually full of cheapo topran crap and they tend to only work part time though don't write them off completely as they are a pretty good as conduit to get parts from VW Classics in Germany (there is a link on their website). Do take your patience pills when dealing with Heritage though as it can be frustrating experience. You can try vw parts departments as well for parts but vw don't support their classics and everything is usually obsolete. You can however get bargains if it is in stock. Good luck and feel free to post for help and we can step in to assist. Edit - Lastly if you are doing the work yourself get yourself a set of Irwin sockets. They have saved me countless times on crusty bolts.