_Matt_

Oh bugger I should have done the doex gel as have some here but have now stayed them silver and fitted to the car. In other news it didn't solve the clonk which I now believe is the ARB hitting the wishbone on passenger side. Only does it once or twice on a journey. Car is going on shacker machine at a garage on Tuesday. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Great to see you again today. Black Magic looking as beautiful as ever and I had the pleasure of driving behind on the way out - your Corrado has great presence on the road. Yours is spec'd the way VW should have done it from the factory. You did better than me on the mpg - I got 30.5 and only cruised at 60mph for most of the journey. My coolant temps happily always under the 90 mark but oil hovers between 98 and 102. It goes as high as 118 if I utilise the revs. It used to be lower before the cams. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

They do pop up now and again but few and far between - I see them on facebook mostly. What's your goals with it? If you're after some better midrage and upper end performance on a 2.9 then 263 cams and a remap by, say, Stealth gives you good results without the risk of plastic VGI flaps crumbling and destroying your engine. I jest, that is unlikely to happen. I've not found a rolling road map of a 2.9 VGI manifold + 268s to compare mine too (263 cams) but suspect peak midrange torque would come in 1000rpm lower but peak power/torque would be thereabouts the same. Heard the VGI makes very good gains on the 2.8 in the mk3 Golf though. Don't need to cut the bonnet on them either.

Thought I would have a go at electrolysis on some brake carriers. I got myself a bucket, sacrificial brake disc, biocarbonate soda, water and a battery plus trickle charger. 1 table spoon of soda per gallon of water. Left for around 24 hrs but turning on and off rather than leaving over night. I did no prep to the carriers but did brush down wire brush after the process. I think they turned out pretty good for minimal effort. Will clean them up and paint next. Crusty rust has gone but wire brush left dusty rust deposits to be cleaned before paint. Some before and after pics. Will grab a pic of the setup later. Pretty simple to do just don't let the stuff you're cleaning touch the sacrificial metal (brake disc in my case). Might have a go at zinc plating for bolts and bits next and will update thread. If anyone has tips please post and of anyone wants to know more post questions. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I tend to use either Opie Oils or https://www.vwspares.co.uk/ Well done on the pump 🙂

Anyway figured it out - for all of those that don't know - 13mm nut clamps bracket for o2 sensor and once removed you have access to the main bolt that runs through the mount. Remove bolt and you're free to jack up engine. Just as simple as the front mount. Just a note as sounds like the knowledge has gone - you cannot remove the wishbone on a vr6 without either jacking up engine/dropping subframe/remove sump. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I should know this but not attempted the mounts on the VR6. I'd like to refurbish my wishbones before getting an alignment after doing some works in the area. I can see I need to jack up the engine to allow room for the front wishbone bolt to come out - I had a quick look at the mount and it seems there is bolt on the top securing a heatshield - does that go all the way through to secure the mount so I only need to take that out and I'm good to go with jacking engine as normal - basically same idea as the front mount which I've done a few time before? Just getting my head around it before I jump in. Cheers Matt

Yeah I was hoping the owner was on here in the background to fill in the story on how it mechanically held up. For me these high milers, especially ones still in use and in good condition are the most impressive Corrados. Cream not for me but does look well kept. Id fear the floors are not holding up with the water ingress though. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

316k Corrado for sale on the bay. Fair play to the owner, looks like he/she has had it since 1998 and done the mileage and mainteance. Would love to know what it has needed over the years. Would be great to hear still on original chains lol Bit worse for wear now: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155060482709?_trkparms=pageci%3A0011a5da-fc81-11ec-bd61-12eb313a9f94|parentrq%3Acf3ae4ce1810aa7139a017b6fffad54e|iid%3A1&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236

Got it - thanks! Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Took it apart again. Im pretty sure it is the pads. Nothing else has any movement and everything is relatively new - oldest part is 4000 or so miles old max and many parts are newer. The pads themselves are "blue line" el cheapo and their fit is pretty loose against the carrier slide tracks - id say a fag roller paper gap allowing up and down movement. On the other cars I have just done there was no movement and after a little bit of filing they moved resistant free on the.carrier. I've bought some Pagids to swap them out with and will report back. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

If you take the wiring through the tweeters they will be active. The original wire goes in and back out to the door speakers. If you join the standard two connections together it will send the music straight to the door. I had mine setup with door speakers and factory tweeter and it was not nice. I then installed some 4in speakers in the dash and spliced into the wire feeding the dash speaker to join it to the door wire. Much better! However if I had audioscape I'd be temped to just remove dash speaker and join the two wires that connect to stock speaker. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I don't normally throw much out but I made an exception on those Nokia tweeters a month or so back 😄

Cheers, just sent the £59 Matt

Haha at least my pain is shared! I've posted up on club gti as well now and I'm thinking again to strip the brakes down and double check the pad ears are free to slide on the carrier. I cant quite remember as have done the mk3 and family cars brakes since but iirc the pad was tight on the carrier and perhaps not moving cleanly (or maybe it is too loose and slapping about). The family car (seat exeo) has a very similar set up with 312s and no noises but I did file the ears a little as they had lumps in (TRW pads). I may have applied too much ceramic grease- coated the ears and applied to the back of outer pad. Probably should have done a little less now reading up on it. It only happens in situations where brakes have been applied before hand. I wiggled the car and say 20mph side to side to check for noises and get nothing. 12-6 and 3-9 are perfect. I got my eldest daughter to rock the steering this eve whilst I viewed the wishbone bushes and they are fine/no real movement. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

FFS still does it. Transition from forward to reverse and steering lock to reverse up my mums drive - clonk. Thinking perhaps its the front wishbone bush as everything else is new. The wishbone had a r32 rear bush pressed in but otherwise looks to be original. Zero movement with pry bar. What is a good test to isolate front wishbone bush? Driving car a slow speed and rocking side to side doesn't replicate noise. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Last update hopefully... solved... changed the driveshafts and it hasn't made the noise since. Original inner boots/joints and one sides outer looks original so they had done their time. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Excellent news! If you had the centre caps on the G60 that picture could be straight out of a VW marketing brochure from back in the day 🙂. I know you've kept them off for safekeeping. Like the fold out plan to keep the heat off the interior and plastics - will that be in the space between garage and the house? Nice idea

I haven't used it for this job but the steamer has been great at removing adhesive from DIY jobs around the house and also gets all the grime and factory wax out of the engine bay.

What about using a steamer?

Theoretically it is possible - change the engine for a Euro4 or better, ensure the catalytic converter is just as good as Euro4 or better. Notify the DVLA of engine change and also have an independent emssions rolling road test, not cheap apparently but can't find any info. https://energysavingtrust.org.uk/service/clean-vehicle-retrofit-accreditation-scheme/ Can I replace the engine in my car to become CAZ, LEZ or ULEZ compliant (engine re-power)? This is possible, however there are no CVRAS approved re-powers for cars. This kind of conversion would be a DVLA notifiable modification in terms of engine number and engine capacity, but it would not lead to a change in emission values as stated on the vehicle’s V5C document (logbook) unless an expensive full rolling road emissions test is conducted to obtain the new emission values. This test would need to be conducted at a Vehicle Certification Agency (VCA) approved test facility and cannot be conducted at an MOT test centre.

Just changed the discs and pads on my daily - Seat Exeo 170 ps - noted it has 312 brakes and the caliper and carrier is identical in design to the 288s. Audi b7/Seat Exeo's from the era also came with 288 calipers so that's another place you could search to buy carriers/calipers

ahhh gutted to see that. Some thinners on a rag should get the white marks out and a mobile dent man can hopefully do the rest. Otherwise there are smart repairs who could just paint what is needed. You're right about respray - paying out to get that done and having it damaged again would be soul destroying and may well prevent you from using the car. Even after a respray you may find you have issues like water leaks or whatever, tbh unless the car really needs full paint I would not recommend it on both cost, hassle and having something so perfect you might not use it. If your damage is just bumper corners I'd get a smart guy round to do it. If you need more than that I would just get the sides painted and the bumpers sorted. If doing the sides take a look at the sills (back, a-pillars behind wing) and get them back to metal and repaired. If its just door dings and that arch (post thinners) that need dents removing i'd get a dent man round and keep your paint - perhaps get it professionally mopped and polished and it will look almost as good as respray without the hassle and cost!

Sadly that looks like it has gone for scrap/breaking. Not MOTd since 2009, 228k and rust reported on the subframe mounting areas would suggest curtains back in 2009 when their values were still quite low. Good luck in your search however.