_Matt_

Tell a lie they still have 2 so perhaps are managing inventory but an utter butt F to pay 25 euro + post for two! https://stockpiezasvw-audi.com/en/2107-genuine-191501639b-cover.html

for me i paid £300 cash for Alternator, Starter motor and PAS refurb but think i got a discount for doing all at once. He sourced oem parts from all over Europe and got the original stickers as well. Wishbones - sometimes there are issues with non oem hitting the ARB as clearence is tight. Believe Lemforder or OEM is the way to go. Bolts is quite a substantial cost I had not bargained for. I could hardly re-use any of them and it looks a bit pants against freshly powdercoated frames! And that gold ring in the pictures is obsolete but needed for sub axle rebuild work. I bought the last 4 listed on some French site earlier this year 😞

Also if you have OEM wishbones drop them off for powdercoating rather than replace with powdercoating. The bushes press in easily with a bench vice or if you're fairly local to me (Herts, i think you might be?) you're welcome to use my 20t press (or i'll do it :). I went for R32 bushes on the rears of the wishbone. https://www.facebook.com/SPSUSPENSIONLTD did the Koni coilovers on my mk2 https://www.facebook.com/carparts.buryfarm.3 are great for refurbing components such as the alternator. There are pics of my stuff on there - great job.

I've done/in the process of doing this on my mk2 16v and mk3 16v and have done the work minus powder coating on the Corrado (silly boy but in my defence i didn't know about it at the time and it was my first renovation). Keyo on here is a fountain of knowledge re parts and parts diagrams and I am sure will post and support but what I did, aside from ask Keyo for help, was to study the parts diagrams i.e. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/vw/RDW/COR/076 which is basically ETKA online and jot down the part numbers of all the bits I needed for each section I was renovating. I actually found it a really enjoyable aspect of the renovation but less so finding out most parts are obsolete. Sometimes you get lucky and LLL parts stock the items for reasonable cost but other times you have to get resourceful and start hunting the internet for part numbers. If you search in google with quotations i.e. "535201075AA" google will find you results of items matching the exact part number. For bolts and washers etc I found a lot of things needed were obsolete so instead I would look for the bolt specs on the internet instead. Always make sure you go for 10.9 tensile and not the usual 8.8 tensile. VW chassis side bolts are always 10.9. Also get yourself and thread and pitch tool so you can measure the bolts that are on the car and get the right non oem replacements. Avoid crappy brands - topran for example are utter rubbish. I have just bought some stub axles for the mk3 golf (exact same part nos as Corrado) and found the hole of the ABS sensor was slightly in the wrong place meaing the sensor fouled against the abs ring. I replaced with Meyle items and they were fine. Try not to bulk at the price of quality brands - bosch, lemforder - as I can almost guarentee if you don't end up buying them first you will do after buying something from topran/jp group etc. Also note the mk3 5x100 golf rear axle and front drivetrain is identical to the Corrado. You can get parts from facebook breakers i.e Leo GS for reasonable prices. Lastly use LLL Parts, Autodoc and Mecatechnic.com for parts. Heritage is usually full of cheapo topran crap and they tend to only work part time though don't write them off completely as they are a pretty good as conduit to get parts from VW Classics in Germany (there is a link on their website). Do take your patience pills when dealing with Heritage though as it can be frustrating experience. You can try vw parts departments as well for parts but vw don't support their classics and everything is usually obsolete. You can however get bargains if it is in stock. Good luck and feel free to post for help and we can step in to assist. Edit - Lastly if you are doing the work yourself get yourself a set of Irwin sockets. They have saved me countless times on crusty bolts.

me too, i dont think Lotus3512 post hit the forum until now even though it is stamped June. He and I msg'd via messenger on here back in June - I sent him some pics of what I had with my car. It was a pretty interesting story (to us anyway) - his Audi 80 Coupe (V6) was purchased from the same dealer as my Corrado. Our cars would have sat together in the company car park for approx 4 years. Our books that came with the car have the same handwriting in so assume the same Sales person dealt with both too.

Looked a great show and wish I went. Shame there was so much music in the hanger preventing youtubers recording but I am sure the visitors at the event got a good nose around your motor 🙂 Garage is coming along nice. Black Magic will be tucked up cozy come winter.

Hey Cressa re the NRV - back in early ownership I had starting issues when warm. I did a load of troubleshooting and also fitted the valve to try and solve but it didn't. My issue turned out to be leaky fuel injectors. On cold start fuel pressure built up and it was enough to start the car. When the car was warm the injectors leaked into the cylinders and flooded the engine. The car would crank and crank and eventually splutter into life. Edit to add I also had a new fuel pump fitted at the time too but Vince said mine was noisey and it was done as job after the above work and before I got the car back so not sure whether it was linked. Like you I did the crank, camshaft, all temp sensors before Stealth took a look.

Wish I bougbt koni T/As now and avoided this issue. But just been for a another spin and no noises and steering feels way way better too. The top plates above probably could have been drilled out wider to allow proper fitment. In 4 years this has never been right. Perhaps on first install the garage were able to use an impact gun to force it down. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

OK I took the shocks off and rebuilt from scratch to torques. I noted the top spring plate was very difficult to remove from the threads the of the Bilstein shock - they are a wider thread than stock. This is probably why the assembly wasn't bolted in fully secure. I had some replacement caps from the mk3 that fitted over the threads nicely. I rolled the car back and forth before torquing the bolt for these. I put it back together with the shocks swapped over to opposite sides and set the camber to zero degrees (in the air with a jack under wishbone- quick and dirty). Went for a spin. It did clonk again once as I first reversed, but a lighter clonk like the spring reseating itself. It was then fine for thr rest of the test drive. I was pretty rough with it to test. Fingers crossed but have been here before... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Been to the local garage, great guys but they don't know older VWs inside out. They do take great care of the car though. Car went on shacker machine and no problems down below with bushes, arb, bearings but there is a problem with the top mount on the side the noise comes from. When they jacked the car up after the shacker machine the passenger side shock dropped a small amount and the noise was heard from the top of the shock. On testing there is lateral and vertical movement (about half a cm up and down but I think this is normal on VWs?). This is the 2nd new top mount (lemforder) installed this side. Either Stealth and myself have installed these incorrectly or there is something else amiss. A few questions if anyone can help. I may have to go back to Stealth (100mile trip) for diagnoises but am supposed to be showing the car at Silverstone and doubt I'll get it sorted intime if I go that route. - When installing the springs I ensured the ears on the spring plate and shock lined up with the ends of the spring. I also bought new springs plates from VW classic parts. - I didn't do anything special with lining up the top mount, just plonked it on and put a vw shock/topmount bush nut and then put the top plate and nut on when installed in the car. I used my impact gun as the allen head is rounded on the shock with the issue. I guess the shock could have spun and the garage today suggested I used mole grips with a rag on the shock body to make sure and torque up properly. - One remark - when I did the job to switch over to H&R springs, from eibach, altough the noise was still happening with eibach, i noticed a normal nut had been used on top of the bearing rather than the special VW bush nut. It would have been like this since the shocks were first installed a good 4 years ago and was the reason i changed the spring plates as they were misshapen. Could my shock be fecked? - Last Q - the garage said the camber is normally setup on the top mount placement hence my q above on not doing anything special when locating the topmount. I thought we did camber on the 2 bolts on the bottom of the shock on these cars? Do coilovers have the same setup as the spring plate used to convert later corrados to early spring design?

Cheers Dox, I have checked i think it is correct - bent downward under the exhaust rather than upwards. It possibly needs a knock a few mm towards passenger side to clear it but will wait the results of the shacker plate machine at the garage incase another bush is tired causing excessive movement. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Just an update as know a coupe of others are following for a solution! Carrier change didn't solve the issue. I believe now that it is the ARB hitting the wishbone on the passenger side. Car is going on the Shacker machine on Tuesday. The camber is way out still as waiting to solve the issue before getting it aligned. Only clonks once on a drive - today went on a 40 mile trip and it clonked once on the first reverse maneuver (never does it when I reverse out of drive first thing though) and then doesn't do it again - I.e when I was parking up next to Keyo no clonk but had thst been the first reverse of the journey it would have done it. The front wishbone bushes are the only non-new and non touched item in this rebuild. Perhaps they are allowing some movement of the wishbone. Or perhaps it just needs an alignment. The wishbone is original VW but rear bush changed for a R32 bush. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Oh bugger I should have done the doex gel as have some here but have now stayed them silver and fitted to the car. In other news it didn't solve the clonk which I now believe is the ARB hitting the wishbone on passenger side. Only does it once or twice on a journey. Car is going on shacker machine at a garage on Tuesday. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Great to see you again today. Black Magic looking as beautiful as ever and I had the pleasure of driving behind on the way out - your Corrado has great presence on the road. Yours is spec'd the way VW should have done it from the factory. You did better than me on the mpg - I got 30.5 and only cruised at 60mph for most of the journey. My coolant temps happily always under the 90 mark but oil hovers between 98 and 102. It goes as high as 118 if I utilise the revs. It used to be lower before the cams. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

They do pop up now and again but few and far between - I see them on facebook mostly. What's your goals with it? If you're after some better midrage and upper end performance on a 2.9 then 263 cams and a remap by, say, Stealth gives you good results without the risk of plastic VGI flaps crumbling and destroying your engine. I jest, that is unlikely to happen. I've not found a rolling road map of a 2.9 VGI manifold + 268s to compare mine too (263 cams) but suspect peak midrange torque would come in 1000rpm lower but peak power/torque would be thereabouts the same. Heard the VGI makes very good gains on the 2.8 in the mk3 Golf though. Don't need to cut the bonnet on them either.

Thought I would have a go at electrolysis on some brake carriers. I got myself a bucket, sacrificial brake disc, biocarbonate soda, water and a battery plus trickle charger. 1 table spoon of soda per gallon of water. Left for around 24 hrs but turning on and off rather than leaving over night. I did no prep to the carriers but did brush down wire brush after the process. I think they turned out pretty good for minimal effort. Will clean them up and paint next. Crusty rust has gone but wire brush left dusty rust deposits to be cleaned before paint. Some before and after pics. Will grab a pic of the setup later. Pretty simple to do just don't let the stuff you're cleaning touch the sacrificial metal (brake disc in my case). Might have a go at zinc plating for bolts and bits next and will update thread. If anyone has tips please post and of anyone wants to know more post questions. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I tend to use either Opie Oils or https://www.vwspares.co.uk/ Well done on the pump 🙂

Anyway figured it out - for all of those that don't know - 13mm nut clamps bracket for o2 sensor and once removed you have access to the main bolt that runs through the mount. Remove bolt and you're free to jack up engine. Just as simple as the front mount. Just a note as sounds like the knowledge has gone - you cannot remove the wishbone on a vr6 without either jacking up engine/dropping subframe/remove sump. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I should know this but not attempted the mounts on the VR6. I'd like to refurbish my wishbones before getting an alignment after doing some works in the area. I can see I need to jack up the engine to allow room for the front wishbone bolt to come out - I had a quick look at the mount and it seems there is bolt on the top securing a heatshield - does that go all the way through to secure the mount so I only need to take that out and I'm good to go with jacking engine as normal - basically same idea as the front mount which I've done a few time before? Just getting my head around it before I jump in. Cheers Matt

Yeah I was hoping the owner was on here in the background to fill in the story on how it mechanically held up. For me these high milers, especially ones still in use and in good condition are the most impressive Corrados. Cream not for me but does look well kept. Id fear the floors are not holding up with the water ingress though. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

316k Corrado for sale on the bay. Fair play to the owner, looks like he/she has had it since 1998 and done the mileage and mainteance. Would love to know what it has needed over the years. Would be great to hear still on original chains lol Bit worse for wear now: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155060482709?_trkparms=pageci%3A0011a5da-fc81-11ec-bd61-12eb313a9f94|parentrq%3Acf3ae4ce1810aa7139a017b6fffad54e|iid%3A1&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236

Got it - thanks! Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Took it apart again. Im pretty sure it is the pads. Nothing else has any movement and everything is relatively new - oldest part is 4000 or so miles old max and many parts are newer. The pads themselves are "blue line" el cheapo and their fit is pretty loose against the carrier slide tracks - id say a fag roller paper gap allowing up and down movement. On the other cars I have just done there was no movement and after a little bit of filing they moved resistant free on the.carrier. I've bought some Pagids to swap them out with and will report back. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

If you take the wiring through the tweeters they will be active. The original wire goes in and back out to the door speakers. If you join the standard two connections together it will send the music straight to the door. I had mine setup with door speakers and factory tweeter and it was not nice. I then installed some 4in speakers in the dash and spliced into the wire feeding the dash speaker to join it to the door wire. Much better! However if I had audioscape I'd be temped to just remove dash speaker and join the two wires that connect to stock speaker. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk