Bauhaus

Faulty blue temp sensor and the O2 sensor gives these symptoms, as the failure of these components cause the engine to run excessively rich.

The best way is to look at your fuel gauge markings, the early G60 will have 12 gal marked on it

The float device as your probably aware is your fuel level sensor, does your G60 have a 12 gallon tank ? if so let them know as they will more than likely send you the version for the later larger 15 gallon tank so your fuel gauge level reading may well be false. I'm not even sure if the 12 gallon sensor is still available.

Thumbs up for Castrol Syntrans, that's what I use... its good stuff

think carefully before going for a BBM kit... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?24118-BBM-VR6-turbo-kit Things may have changed since then though.

That's the thing I don't like about the std box away in 1st and changing into 2nd instantly, sounds like 5th is not needed in the ASD box

How do you find driving this in terms of Acceleration and in slow moving traffic with the ASD gearbox fitted compared to the original box ? I have a CTN box (I believe is similar to the ASD ) which has sitting here for a few years, but cant bring myself to fit it in case it totally balls up the G60's lively performance.

I just measured the pcd of the ABS ring mounting holes, put the hub in a lathe and scored the same pcd onto the hub, then placed the ABS ring on hub and marked out the hole positions around the pcd before drilling and tapping the mounting holes. The std VW ABS rings was only put on for the racelogic traction control system I had at the time.

I did this to my Corrado using late mk2 16v front discs and polo axles and hubs on the rear http://www.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?98054-My-Inca-Blue-91-G60-by-Bauhaus I tried to describe it with some detail but Not sure if the photos are still visible as I cant see them since photophukit went to a paid subscription.

I know what you mean mate, there are two variations of this tape, Fleece and cloth, its the cloth one like in the ebay link that's needed for engine bay looms, I use it for any interior wiring too.

Now that's what you call a Stunning clean example..

Direct info taken from the Tesa website... http://www.tesa.co.uk/industry/tesa-51026.html (tesa® 51026 PET Cloth tape is designed for the engine compartment wire harnessing, providing high abrasion protection.) plus its almost visually identical to the oem stuff. I've used it for many years without any problems.

Glad you got the job situation sorted Oli, looks like your making good progress again. Did you put your steel parts in the engine or just put the replacement engine in as is ?

Oil seals are normally pressed fully in to seat on a machined lip in the gearbox casing to keep them square in the bore, so you should be ok if you have used the correct oil seals.

Seems a bit of a coincidence that the person who had revived this thread on their first post has a link in their sig for Adhesive & Pressure Sensitive Tapes Manufacturers ?? I have no association to this eBay seller but I use this Tape..https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TESA-TAPE-51608-ADHESIVE-CLOTH-FABRIC-WIRING-LOOM-HARNESS-15m-25m-19mm-15mm-9mm/252275241094 other sellers of Tesa tape are available..

That's a very neat and tidy fix.

Sad news about yer job... So does that mean you did not get the replacement engine in the end ?? Hope it all works out soon.

Junction 25 ..now that's a blast from the past, used to go regularly to the meets at the Half way house on the A127 in my blue Corrado G60

Crank the engine over in very short bursts to establish oil flow at the charger end of the feed pipe (the oil pipe that starts at the end of the cylinder head) the return pipe at lower point of the charger attaches to the bottom of your block, just make sure the oil return bolt that screws in the charger has larger drilled holes to avoid an excessive back pressure of oil which can pop your oil seals in the charger.

Wow sourced another engine already.. that was quick.

Bad news indeed olly !! If your you going to re-build this engine there maybe some unseen damage on what can be reused, so get that crank checked for straightness, and your steel rods will need also need to be checked for straightness and for any out of round big end, the small end bushes may need replacing on the rods of the offending cylinders as these may now have a flat spot when the engine locked up.

No need for Mr Abed to make a custom P/S crank pulley, everything you need is from a MK3 golf.. Power steering crankshaft pulley 037 105 253 D Power steering pump pulley 051 145 255 Using the above with the 1.8T ribbed pulley with a 5mm machined spacer behind it then everything will line up perfectly.

My view is a fluid damper is ok for a high revving track car but not really necessary for a road car. However I'm not familiar with AEB block myself, but if your using the std G60 ribbed pulley and damper then the 8v 2L combined crank damper/ribbed pulley is a straight swap and is lighter to, but if your crank pulley is the same as the 16v KR/PL and the 2L variants then a 8v 2L damper/ribbed pulley with 5mm shaved off will fit, or even better a 1.8t crank damper with combined ribbed pulley with a machined 5mm spacer behind fits a treat.. But be aware he the std G60 is 137mm dia and the 2L 8v is 133mm dia so will under drive anything attached to it so if your using a G60 charger use a smaller pulley to compensate.

My old lead acid battery (Bosch silver plus) is well over 11 years old now and in need of replacing, I was thinking of getting another Bosch silver battery but these now use the silver calcium technology, done a bit of googling and apparently these need a higher slightly voltage to charge them properly, is anybody else on here using one or any other silver calcium battery.. as my thoughts are will the alternator be man enough ? On paper the performance of these batteries look great compared to the Varta and the blue topped Bosch lead acid equivalents and want to take advantage of this.

Thanks for the comments, I heard that Inca blue is rare, not sure how many there is about ? Having a few issues with photofuc*it hosting my photos, so I'm direct posting here a few more pics of my car from last year on the ramps at Tyre Smart in Witham,Essex when it was having a full wheel alignment done, the outside looks fairly standard apart from the OZ wheels, front lights and rear the lenses. The car is currently on a sorn for this month while trying to sort out a couple of electrical issues causing the car to cut out, and also to sort out a boost leak :(