Bauhaus

You can just replace the fuel pump on its own and many have done this, here’s a link to the VR6 owners club where someone has fitted just the pump... https://www.vr6oc.com/forum/forums/topic/23839-fitting-walbro-fuel-pump-in-tank/

Not sure if they still do it but Stealth used to do a kit to just replace the pump, ideal if your swirl pot and fuel sender is still ok

I think you need the VR6 slam panel for a VR6 to fit as someone mentioned above , here is a link for company a new G60 rad in stock a tad expensive but it is a quality Valeo one.. https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/car-brands/spare-parts-vw/corrado-53i/1753/10203/radiator-parts.html#10107

Yes that’s the correct hose.. same as what I have used. But if anyone is going to buy some generic hose from a motor factor just make sure the spec is SAE J30 R9 for fuel injection use as this spec is designed for the increasing amount of ethanol the oil refinery's are now putting in the petrol. Also its best to avoid the use of worm drive clips if you can, the proper way is to use oem style single or double ear clamps for a tight and even clamping pressure around the hose,the ones I ended up using is the one one the right hand side.

The Corrado G60 never came with a factory installed immobiliser, your Conlog is a VW dealer installed immobiliser and the install may be different to someone else's car. The ECU 037 906 022 DP or any other G60 ECU does not contain any immobiliser and will have nothing to do with your installed immobiliser.

The rubber fuel hose your referring to has a internal dia of 7.6mm

Yes.. its this cable.. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/2x2.html

The G60 ECU can not be scanned, not with VAGCOM anyway, but there is a two pin connector under the "shifter" gear lever housing that when conected to a home made LED and resistor device will output a sequence of flashes to indicate a problem. Everything discused in this thread should of cleared it up, but check the injector wiring harness for breaks and good plug connections as heat expansion can cause a connection issue giving a fuel delivery problem.

Ok fair enough Keyo, its just when you stated "G60 in golf variation not that of the Corrado" I read it as like it should never been put in a Corrado We all have our preferences, obviously mines a G60 powered Corrado for various reasons.

G60 owners maybe a minority on here now days, but this is a very divisive statement you made.. You clearly dislike the G60 and probably the 16v too, But care to elaborate further why you specifically think the G60 engine should only be in a golf ?.

I think there is a generic corrado buying guide here somewhere, not sure if its VR6 specific.. In my opinion which model to buy depends on what you want the car for, if your not going to do many miles and want a performance car especially if your going to tweek it then its a G60 all the way, but if your planning on regular long journeys to vist places etc then a VR6 Remember these are two very different cars and were marketed as such, the VR6 a touring coupe and the G60 a sports coupe, But pitting one against the other has been debated over many years on here with no real conclusion. But If your looking for an investment car then the smart money is on a G60 as I said in a previous post they are rarer, the VR6 (apart from the storm) is more plentyful thats why more people tend buy them. I'm fortunate to own two G60 Corrados, to satisfy my needs, one is modified for enhanced performance, and the other is a faily low milage example that I purchased eight years ago which I recently finished a five year long nut and bolt resto and is now 100% standard with original engine and forms part of my early retirement package £££

This is true possibly because a original G60 is far rarer to find.

Spotted a red Corrado, (think it was a 16v) in Tesco's car park at Maldon Essex around 11.45 this morning..

The G60 power steering pump is different to the 16v, the difference is the pump shaft is slightly longer on the G60 pump so the v belt can line up with the v pulley on the G60 crank damper, the inlet and outlet are angled differently, the pulley may have a different off set to.

I looked for one a while back but gave up and made my own in oem style.. http://www.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?98054-My-Inca-Blue-91-G60-by-Bauhaus/page2

Fine looking car.. I don't suppose there's many nugget yellows about now.

Your best bet if its a chip and pulley tune your doing is to go for those generic Bosch red top injectors, I think there known as "30lb" injectors, Bosch part number 0 280 150 945 and used in some fords over where your are located across the pond, just don't buy any "red top" injector.. go by the Bosch number, remember its not just fuel flow you have to think about, the compatibility of the injector with the ECU is very important. There are other ones to use depending on your state of tune, I'm using the Bosch 0 280 150 431 injectors.

I have used advanced radiators I find them good quality, they do Corrado VR6 rads https://www.adrad.co.uk/prices/prices.php?type=radiator&id=VW328&model=CORRADO&make=VOLKSWAGEN although what's listed is not oem but if its an issue to you they can get them in not sure what the price would be though.

True, But my point is.. if like me you live in a rural area with unlit roads with plenty of bends and if both your main beams go in the dark its a bad situation when on the move.. better to have the safety margin of a three relay loom, but yes always keep your original loom and connectors intact.

I believe someone on here was producing the three relay version for the corrado... I think his name on here is Kur2y The idea for using three relays is one relay is for the dip and the other two are for the off side and near side main beams, if one of the main beam relays or its fuse fails you still have the other one to light the way home. The more common two relay loom is just a cut down version and if your main beam relay or fuse fails on the move your buggered. Both loom versions work but its down to personal choice at the end of the day.

If your wanting to keep it all oem ie: not drilling holes for some discreet support bracket etc there's not a lot you can do, but to protect them you can either get the relays with the cover over the fuses (if you have fused relays) or put the relay block in a small ABS box, the relays don't really get that hot.

This thread had prompted me to search out my old MK1 golf up-rated headlight loom I did some years ago based on the 3 relay design which BRM Motorsport used to sell back in the day, I will be rewiring this to suit the Corrado lighting circuit. Here's a pic of the old loom complete with fuse caps to keep the moisture out, all the components came from vehicle wiring products, the only thing is it uses the old style fuses.

Mahle pistons and bearings are completely different to what Mahle Motorsport supplies, same parent company but serve different sectors, There is also a big price difference which is the usual for motorsport intended components. If looking for replacement pistons for a road driven VR6 then Mahle or Kolbenschmidt are both oem piston suppliers for VW and you could have either one of those manufacturers piston sets installed as standard from VW, so going with either of these for a non tracked car is a good move.

Glad to hear your re-motivated Oli, look forward to seeing the updates..

That's the correct stuff, its the same as mine, except the code on mine is G 002 000. Unless the parts manager at your stealer has been working for VW for at lest 25 years take his advice with a pinch of salt, he will probably be only be up to speed with cars from the last 10 years