Bauhaus

Yes they are a bit expensive when you factor in today's exchange rate and import duty, I got mine way before this brexit thing got going, when the exchange rate was good with the US, and lowish value declaration from IE took care of most of the import duty, I'v heard that IE for some reason wont send to the UK now. So are you not using the Bosch non return/one way valve for the 044 then ?

Are you trying to achieve something like this which all mounts under the car on the 4 studs in the oem position ?

About time I updated my thread so here goes.. In my constant quest to improve my Corrado with a slight oem+ attitude today I went and done this.. http://www.the-corrado.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=95174&d=1537121710 My spare G60 throttle body mounted with a genuine throttle position sensor(TPS) grafted on, As I have reached the limits of the Digifant ecu I am now planning to go to an aftermarket ecu which will require a TPS If any other G60 owners are interested I can post more details of the TPS retro fit. Next I will be working on an interface to the new ecu which will keep the original G60 wiring by using a stripped out original ecu case and its multi pin socket. -------------- Sent by my PC

I'm not sure but this link may go some way to explaining the Tapatalk prob... https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/tapatalksupport/regulation-eu-about-personal-data-will-stop-tapata-t39762.html Maybe the owner of this forum could chime in to clarify the situation ?

I'm not familiar with the fuse /box relay positions of your car or the injection system you have, but If you suspect its electrical then consider replacing the fuel pump relay. Turning the ignition off then back on and it clears is a classic sign of a intermittent relay fault.

Here is a doc which Darren and Steve of Gwerks/Pitstop developments gave me when I first got my G60, I have scanned the doc so hopefully you can read it, It may help you and anyone else setting up their fuelling and basic setup correctly..

Reading what you have said above it sounds like you have always had an over-fuelling problem, changing the FPR would eliminate any excess fuel pressure issues, electrical issues in the pump and injectors usually results in lower fuel pressure. What other mods have you done as it sounds like you need a mapping session, especially as you say you have now a G65 charger and probably gone with those green 440cc injectors plus a higher rated FPR which will dump way to much fuel at lower revs and when you floor it.

welcome.. Its good to see another G60 owner here.

What your proposing will be fine as long as the sensor is in the intake airflow before the TB then it will be all good, the ECU only takes a split second to compensate for any needed mixture/temp adjustment regardless of how near the sensor is to the TB

I have a Vibratechnics front mount on mine and its great, there is 2 versions available.. road version which I have or the track, the road one is plenty man enough to hold the engine still if the rear one is good, but a solid mount which I had on my old Mk2 Golf made to much vibration around the bodywork for my liking.

The CO pot needs to be quite close to the throttle body, but because the CO pot also doubles up as the intake temp sensor it needs to be after any intercooler / chargecooler to accuratly sample the intake charge temp and mixture.

While main bearing bolts "can" be re used and have done successfully in many cases, they are really cheap as chips, as long as you get the 10.9 grade ones and not the so called uprated 12.9 grade as the 12.9's are really too brittle for this application and would also need a different torque setting, Personally for a critical bolt thats cheap I use new ones every time. As GTi_jamo says new big ends needed if on std rods

According to my data its 65nm same as all Mk2 8v and 16v golfs

Were the bolt threads oiled or dry prior to torqueing ? ... Makes a big difference in the torque to yeild point, But equating degrees of rotation to estimated torque is a gamble just like doing a few more degrees for luck.. go by the official settings and not by hearsay. Marking all torqued up bolts is good engineering practice.

Assumption is a risky stratagy especially when 2 people have worked on the engine, for piece of mind get new bolts, not worth guessing what the torque is at now, Changing bolts one at a time (with the others still in place) can be done in the correct sequence up to the stage 2 torque settings. If you have a digital torque wrench you can check what the torque was by using the peak tracking setting by slighty backing one of the bolt off and noting the readout.

Play safe and get new bolts as they could now be stretched just past the yeild point, although their now tight they may give gasket problems later on after a few hot and cooled down cycles on the engine use. I guess your using once only use bolts as backing of and re torqueng will stretch them more on the final 90 degrees and wont clamp the gasket enough.

Its been a source of debate for years, but I disagree with the boost return delete mod. The boost bypass is a closed loop system which starts with the butterfly valve at the bottom of the throttle body, it opens at times when full boost is not required like Changing gear such or cruising at part throttle but its not wasted... The unused boost/air that is returned has just come streight from the intercooler (ok its a bit warmer that the outside fresh air) but its still under pressure when it re-enters the Charger and is as clean as whats entering the engine anyway, the benifit of keeping it is when you plant your foot down you get extra increased throttle response and any over boosting in the intake manifold detected by the MAP sensor in the ECU is vented back via the ISV. A lot people deleat it in the misconception that a higher overall BHP will result but under full throttle the valve is shut anyway but a good mod is to remove the cam cover breather from the boost return system to stop any extra dirty oily mist into the system.

I don't have a VR but on a G60 this is usually caused high under bonnet temps that build up when you stop after a good run, the heat cooks the fuel in the lines and a vapour lock occurs in the fuel line, upon start up the fuel pump pushes the vapour lock out which is the struggling/misfires your experiencing. If your getting new fuel pipe make sure is for fuel injection and is R9 rated hose.

Its going to be impressive, Look forward to seeing the finished engine, so why are you not using the CTN box then Oli ?

You have not failed, its me that may have confused the situation (must be all the hot weather), So left hand is as your sitting in the car. I would still be up for a Near side window scraper if re-manufacturing is an option.. For some reason I thought it was the off side one was NLA doh.

If your Clutch MC is the original it will have two studs in which pass through the bulkhead and bolted up, new MC's don't have the studs, just the holes, its best to tap the thread and get new studs screwed in, which is a lot easier than just trying to use nuts and bolts if doing this on your own as the bolts will push out when trying to put the nuts on. There are clearance issues with some strut braces if you have the earlier bonnet, does depend on the strut brace design though, yours looks like it maybe ok.

Just for the benefit of myself and perhaps others.. are you referring to the left hand side as if your standing in front of the engine bay ? in which case the drivers side UK spec is "off side", Or are you sitting in the drivers seat ? then we are talking of the passenger side "near side" on a UK spec car. If its the drivers "off side" UK spec window scraper then I would be up for one.

As Simeon says the WOT is just a micro switch, it does not measure anything, it just sends a signal to the ecu to ignore the Lambda readings at fully open throttle.

A problem that's got steadily worse... then check your wiring and battery health before spunking your money on too many replacement parts like injectors, FPR, and pump, Check your battery voltage at high revs against the alternator voltage, if its lower then its not just the injectors but the fuel pump and ECU may have had a significant voltage drop too, (also check for poor wiring and connectors for the pump too) Correct voltage in this area directly relates to the amount of fuel that is delivered from the injectors at not only high revs, the Digifant system is very sensitive to a voltage drop, a reading of 12v and below at high revs are nowhere near an ideal 13.8v readings that are needed for optimum fueling requirements. A clogged fuel filter can starve your G60 at high revs too.

This has the hallmarks of a fueling problem.. Have you had this problem since owning the car ? If so I would verify that Neuspeed "road race cam" is what you say or have been led to believe, also your anti lag chip which could possibly be a SNS one, and most of them sold were coded for use with a 68mm pulley which is more than likey that your cam should be running on. But if it is a recent problem then I would start with a new fuel filter if all the basic sensor checks have been done.