Bauhaus

The ideal internal dia is 7.6mm but the nearest Codan hose is either 7.3mm or 7.9mm, I went for 7.3mm as I like a nice snug fit on fuel hoses. Codan hose is expensive but worth it in view of safety and piece of mind. Ive attached a pic of the Codan hose I used, the other pic is of left over generic SAE J30 R9 hose I originally used which only lasted 18 months before fuel started pissing out.

Something to add regarding SAE J30 R9 fuel hose, be aware that there is a lot of this hose about that's not what is meant to be and is also sold by big name parts suppliers. Some of this hose is cheap Chinese tat that is marked as SAE J30 R9, this stuff is not very E10 fuel tolerant and can/will crack with the hot under bonnet temps. I changed all my Fuel hoses with Codan branded hose which is SAE J30 R9 rated . You can get it from this place and has more details regarding fuel hose standards...... http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/fuelhose.htm

By saying the "just timing is not exactly fixed" you may have answered your problem your having. Not sure what this pin 1 is your checking but if it is the ECU then this pin goes +12 when starting / cranking only

You should not have any fuel hanging about on top of fuel pump, have you checked all the rubber seals when you installed fuel pump and make sure your feed and return lines are not leaking as well. And make sure the insulation of the pump wires are all good.

Can you upload a photo of this connector on your car ?

This does sound like your over fuelling, so your pump is probably ok, as you have checked your sensors etc, but have you got the correct O2 sensor for a G60 ? as some generic ones give a different output to what the ECU can deal with, also and what injectors are you using ? Also Is this a new build ? if so check your valve timing is correct.

Sounds like a classic Blue temperature Sensor problem (BTS) Make sure its a quality blue sensor and check the wiring from the sensor to the ecu, very often the wiring just before the sensor plug is cracked due to the heat and the wires get corroded.

It will work, I’ve never had a problem with this and have used a few ecu’s with different part numbers, the different part numbers relate to the slightly different fuel and ignition maps depending on what fuel is available in the country at the time when the car was originally exported to as well as various internal circuit revisions.

Just to add... on the fuel pump relay, pin 85 connects to pin3 on connector G1 (the trigger signal) and in turn this goes to pin3 on the ECU. This trigger is a negative signal, so to test you need to put your 12v multi meter or your LED testers black probe on pin 3 of connector G1 and the your red probe to the switched live, you should also check ECU pin3 and a reading should only be available when your ignition key is turned. So pin3 at connector G1 or at ECU pin3 should NEVER be at +12

Not sure what that relay is that your using, The best fuel pump relay to use is 191 906 383 C Pin3 on connecter G1 behind the fuse box is the trigger signal wire from the ECU which goes to pin85 on the fuel pump relay, pin86 on the same relay goes to a switched live (when key is turned) I’ve seen you been messing about with your fuel pump so unplug it first then check all fuel pump relay connections.

Replace it... that relay you have is NOT a Corrado G60 fuel pump relay

Its late and my brain is tired, but Pin 86 on the fuel pump relay should be going to a switched live wire feed ( Pin 5 in connector G1 could be the switched live feed so double check that one and it should NOT be a ground connection) and Pin 85 is the ECU trigger to activate the relay

Not sure if these have enough detail for what you want, but it’s more or less a standard Corrado G60

I will dig out photos of mine when I first got it as it was pretty much standard back then

Similar set up to mine, I take it yours was originally the two pump system, mines the one in tank pump but that now feeds a 044 inline pump, would be interested to know what you did to upgrade your in-tank pump as I now need to look at mine soon.

That's nice and tidy,🙂 is your 044 pump being supplied by the in-tank pump ?

Just checked the plugs in my car and they are NOT W6DPO but are W5DPO which is one grade cooler, the W6DPO are the ones no longer made.

It looks like Bosch is putting its foot down on who can sell their products as quite a few places are no longer Bosch stockists, however I’ve just checked Euro Car Parts and this cropped up..

Yes the Bosch W6DPO is now the recommended plug to go for, as the original plug is no longer made and the W6DPO can be got from sparkplugs.co.uk as well from other places like euro car parts... it pays to shop around though.

Ah.. forgot to mention the Blue CTS reading of 180 -220 ohm is when the engine is up to working temp, 220ohm is the upper limit, so if it is 220ohm its best to change it for a new one.

As Dox said check... Air / vacuum leak sticky idle valve Coolant temp sensor. The blue coolant temp sensor can be checked by testing the resistance across the two pins.. it should be between 180 -220 ohms. The resistance of the CO pot should be around 500 - 600 ohms across pins 1 and 3 of the CO pot, turn the adjustment screw clockwise to decrease resistance or anti clockwise to increase it.

There is some slight misinformation here; there should be hardly any fuel pressure to speak of in the return lines. Pressure is the resistance to flow, (higher the pressure the slower the fuel flow which is not what’s needed in the return line), so if there is any pressure in the return line you may have a serious blockage in the fuel tank vent which could be the popping sound of it releasing pressure.

I'm unable to view or reply to any private messages I've been sent... the forum is well and truly broken.

The Carbon canister and its pipes are just for the fuel tank evaporation vapors to be recycled and have no effect on the MOT exhaust emissions test result. The Carbon canister is by now not working anyway due to its age but whats important unless your keeping it strictly OEM is to make sure the pipes are capped off to avoid air leaks etc and its the leaks that could give you running issues and potential emissions test fail. You could just cap of the pipes as a quick fix to get you through the MOT if your pipes dont arrive.