StuartFZR400

PROBLEM STILL HEREOk, there are thousands of C/L threads all of which seem unique in thier own way. I've a intermitant problem thats just started... The problems on the C as follows (ignoring the alarm fob and taking note that the drivers door uses a second [different] key): unlocking the drivers side door typically now only unlocks the said door (no CL noises are made), yet unlocking from the passenger side will activate and unlock all doors/boot. Similar issue when locking the car, and the passenger side will also shut windows/roof. Sometimes, when I get in via the drivers door, I open the door and it makes the CL noise as if its trying to lockup. 1. Therefore you may suggest a local problem in the drivers door (and not pump related)? Would it be electrical or local-pipe/vacume related? However I have also had the recent problem that the car tried to lock me in, as all doors locked by them selves. I had to turn the ignition back on and try again. 2. Therefore you may suggest its electrical? And lastly I'd note that the sigma alarm started to play up a few months back, where the alarm would go off for no reason. . My issues seem to cover a few different areas but may all boil down to one problem area. And the question comes, do you: A) take it to an alarm place and ask kindly if they would check the old alarm. B) N/A C) check for usual central locking issues your self.... and if so how? ie - what would you check, and how do you do that? -- my concern is I dont know what to pull/prodd. Is there not a plastic sheet within the door that could be brittle and break, cause water ingress and be difficult to replace????????????? A few threads point back at some wiring that corrodes and shorts? Is this in the door? Is it easy to get to and fix? cheers in advance

they didnt sell. Are you going to ask to buy them for £25? I've got a set of Bil's on mine, very happy with them, but with standard springs, to which Im looking to change later. I could double check the part number if you're desperate, but not for a while - no way Im taking a wheel off in my suit, lol! If I didnt have mine on now, I'd-ve bought those, then bought springs seperate - but the yellow shocks are thier better ones, so possibly the springs are ok - try them !!!!!!!!!

All you need to know is in the Knowledge Base at the top of your page Big Chris. A 6.5 wide rim will take 195 or 205. And a 7" wide rim takes better to the 205. Going to a 7.5 wide rim, you can get away with 205, with a stretch that is hard to tell, but a 215 would be keeping to a similar ratio. 16's sound a good idea - Im due to go down the same route. Found 17's to bee too rough and bumpy -- like a stone across water. There is an offset calculator in the above link. If it doesnt make sense, the Tyre Bible will soon clarify matters - or confuse them, lol.

Good feedback guys. Ok Dinkus, yu dont have to bite the bullet, but as its a Cost thread, any typical costs of some of those compenents would help (help me avoid phoning GSF and vag with a long list, lol). Do you think that spotting those above mentioned steering items when buying a car is possible and also possible to negotiate a fair price, or will owners still want the 'typical' going rate.

definately NSFW ........ and I've just eaten!! Not the best way to sell you C either?

Was just trying to get an idea on the running costs for the VR. I tried to gleam some information off this old thread back in 2004, but wanted to ask the question again to get a better idea and more up to date of cost (got the impression that some of those guys were spending nearly £2k/yr). As I assume many of you are well over the 100k mile mark and may possibly have found some bigger costs??? It'd be nice if you could stick to running costs only, so that could be broken down into fuel(27-30pmg is fine by me), parts etc or just a lump sum per year. Do you use a lot of oil per year? And can anyone point out any of the large items that crop up? Now I understand some of the niggle items for the C generally, like the rear spoiler (best done DIY) etc and take onboard its not VR related only. Lastly, are there many of you who do all the work your selves and is the VR easy to work on, ie simple to do an oil filter change etc? I've seen some of you guys spending the earth on your C's, but I get the idea that most of it is due to modifications (naming no names Dirty-grey-Wire) but I also get a small hint that the VR can possibly cost a fair bit to run. Cheers, stu 8)

I knew that bit (hence forewarned the thread starter it'd be over £100), but was curious about labour cost. Be worth asking stealth directly for a quote and while they're at it , what the cost of doing the KR camshaft is (two birds with one stone possibly) + chain etc?

Useful thread for future reference guys - thanks Jim & kev

Yup, as part of my top end rebuild. Mr Sands - did you have all of them replaced and at what cost (keeping parts seperate from labour)? cheers

mat, never had to strip a car motor before. These stupid bikes yu see, they're old tech', lol (not really any more, they can be sophisticated stuff now - just an old one we had to work on). Wonder what the old mkII rocco had. You'd suggest pressure is the key here then. Just you hear so many people here replacing tappets. I have no idea how well the tappets wear - but guessing from other cars, they should last well over the 100k mile mark? Thanks for the hints mat, that might narrow things down for me too. Do you know the last time your C had an oil change Mr BUCKET? Oil and filter are cheap , as said.

dr mat - does the VR use a similar system to the 16v? ie I think the 16v has hydraulic tappets, meaning they self adjust - as you say. (Didnt realise they had tappets on the C until recently). Without going into tappets DIGGER, its most likely to be one single tappet. To quote Wikipedia "On a V6 engine, the failure of one tappet is often noticeable, as the engine is not as responsive." But yours may not have completely failed just yet. You also want to ensure the oil is working properly, ie you are using clean (recently changed) oil of the correct weight - VW's own oil is very good and popular - the Semi-synth (SILVER) should suffice. I hear that oil additives for the 16v are bad news. Basically the valve that gets pressed by the cam has a little cap on the end of it to help with a few things (stability of the valve etc) - this is called a tappet. The tappet can wear on the head face, but the slack should be taken up by the Hydraulic system. Then you can also get wear on the side of this tappet too. Theres a great working picture on Wiki of a 4 stroke in action, showing the valve and tappet moving. Tappets are not too expensive, just the labour can be. *** Has anyone had them replced recently? Maybe at Stealth? *** Side note to anyone who knows: Im curious to know the relation between the location of the spark plug and the tappets; one of my plugs seems to have a seal worn within the head - is there any chance that oil leaking here can also leak from the feed into the tappet? Just a long shot.

Andy, as you've guessed from the comments, there can be a few different problems, from somthing as simple as dirty sensors, to defective sensors. The only way to know for sure is to plug into VAG-COM (unless you know the blink codes for it - but thats all a bit fiddly). Best to borrow VAG-com off someone local, its a 5 minute job, whereas VW will want about £80 off you for the privelidge of plugging into thier computer. Once you know the problem, you can price it up. ABS sensors are not cheap - off VAG or GSF. You'll need them fixed for the MOT.

All right, I want rid of my 4x4 look, but dont want to scuff the floor. Kev, how come you drop of about 60 looks so ideal? The fella who sold me my current C told me it was a 40 drop; however as per my gallery, you can see the front wheel dissapeared into the arch - possibly a much lower drop you'd say? The front wheel also used to look too inward, as if the offset was wrong. G-man is doing some H&R springs for £180ish to give a 30mm drop. Prefer to spend less. Seeing this thread, a bigger drop looks feasible, so he's got Weitec coming out at £90 for a kit at 40mm drop. Will keep looking in this thread for a 40mm example.

Presume you're near Telford or similar. If I was unable to do the work my self, I know of a good cheap local garage that will fit bits that I buy. ie you can buy the proper Silver oil off GSF or VAG, then I'd buy a genuine VAG oil filter and air filter. And let your chosen garage replace those items and then check the usual suspects, brake pads etc, also noting plug status. Maybe a once over by a VW specialist just to give you piece of mind on your first service. Then find a local that you trust IMO.

"a bit more sensible..." but still able to go nippy. Most of the larger deisels will; 1.9 , 2.0 TDI etc. I've driven a 1.5 Megan, gives me 58mpg and more. Nippy upto 80 but dies after that. Whereas the 1.9 keeps going for a while; but mpg is more like 50. Bloke in the office got a 2.0TDI Passat today, while his GT Alfa is in for service. He says its goes very well. To second that oppinion my mate with his 20v Turbo hates it when he barely leaves these big deisel saloons. Still get that nasty slimey feel on your hands at every fill up though :pukeleft:

tells you in the Wiki - CLICK HERE, as it depends on what sized wheels you have on. 8)

Once upon a time my mum... , must resist mum jokes... resist. Ma' drove a Scirocco for years as seen in my avatar (reflection). And yeh Chris, the lower engine one is a 190bhp; quality; quite different to saying its a 1.3 Mazda, lol; also love those funky rear doors. I looked into those - should be reasonable for you to get insured on.

as you say its been discussed to death, including the main Topic Thread. Also jonnyboyo asked a related question and got a little feedback on here, and also my 2p here A 40mm drop would be fine (not spine-breaking) if you were on standard 15" alloys.

Either a rich b*tch and one would hope a MILF - otherwise she might be one of those REAL Hustlers, lol

Rob, in the Knowledgebase three is information on the wheel offsets for each Corrado. If you ran a 6.5 standard wide rim, it needs a 33 offset. Going by the offset calculator you make the wheel wider by 19mm either side (half of 1.5" , ie 3/4") when you increase to a 8j rim. You're main concern is the front wheels. I run a 7" rim and it clears just fine because you're only increasing the width by 1/4 inch either side of the wheel. I hear that people run 8" rims without spacers just fine too, but not sure what offset those wheels have (but I understand they're slammed). The diagram explains it another way. Not sure if clipping the inside of the arch, or clipping the outter arch becomes a problem - I would've thought a 'phat' wheel would clip the inside firstly...... it all depends if you've dropped the car too, by how much. If you want to read more into it, this page goes into more detail. Sorry, that doesnt give a definitive answer. At the end of the day, if you bought alloys with an ET close to 33, you can always get a spacer to move it away from the suspension/inner arch.

Yeh, Keystar, I guess you know what Mat means by plugging into a computer... VAG-COM. VW will do it, but for a small price, I got quoted £80 just to plug into thier VAGCOM. I found a local guy instead, who was able to tell me that both rear ABS sensors had failed. Was your rattle related to the ABS problem? Who knows - only one way to find out; get the ABS problem fixed and see if the sound goes away. Anything could be loose.

lol @ drinking problems. Yep, I get a readout of about 5 to 10mpg while leaving Brum, then hit the motorway and see it rise to a more healthy 28. Then the country roads make it fall again to about 26 ;)

OMG - never seen them like that. Mine were fine when changed. Even gave mine a lick of ani-rust-paint to make em last even longer. Very interesting thread - cheers 8)

no need to up the battery IMO. Battery wont explode as such, just fizzle out and die. Batteries not cheap though. Hope that regulator is correct; should be in theory.

I've got 16v new pads off GSF, just bedded in. Only want them to keep me going until end of April. If you can wait, you're welcome to them at the cost of postage. As for other brands, obviously EBC Greenstuff get a mention. Still worth the typical asking price of £40 for a front set. A few places sell them on the net. Just make sure that they are 16v ones (16mm thick) and not G60 (19mm), the minor difference being that the G60 ones are much thicker and will not fit in your 16v.