StuartFZR400

sub-forum area: insurance 8) And not they're not cheap to insure until yu get older and willing to go TPFT

No common faults that I know of; a sound engine. Possibly a sticking valve and showering the plug with petrol. Did you try razzing it to see if it cleared? Is the lead ok, ie the plug sparks on the dodgy one? (And presume the inside of the dizzy cap is ok and a contact hasn't broken off inside?) Getting oil all over the lead-head?

Dot 4 - cheap as chips from GSF. As for engine oil, yeh, I used the Gold for a while and saw no improvement - will be going back to Silver.

195 or 205, entirely up to you. The 205 might give better grip in the dry and will look regular, just like the Mk1 in your sig. Then the 195 will start to look stretched (barely; actually looks nice), but not nearly as bad as the C in your sig.

Confirmation off the BBC News site for the road tax: "Cars registered before 1 March 2001: taxed on engine size; over 1549cc £175 a year, below £110." Sure I paid about 170 or 175 last time. Suits me fine!! The BBC site has a calculator worth looking at. But doesn't take into account of the National Insurance hike for 2009.

Ouch - paid less than 100 for brand new shocks off ebay - nobody seemed to want them - were poorly advertised though ;)

well, that way you're not bothered if stuff goes wrong NB: two tyres worth having - wont last long though ;)

and you'd only save a FEW quid if you were able to find the calipers cheap. good luck and hope yu dont find any more faults. Will this be your spare car or your every day runner?

refurbished for £41? ...oooh, where from? oh. Pads have to be in that deal? (presume pads to be £20 for the set); Then still £80 for the calipers would be fine if they were professionally refurbished. arh, wouldn't buy a car without an MOT. Who's to say your local place won't fail it on other stuff?

As david says, the most expensive bit is the rear calipers. £55/each minimum, assuming you'll get part-ex for the old ones. £110 Then theres your 205/40/17 tyre, £85 for a decent one fitted. (£45 cheapo) Then lastly your pads off GSF for £22. Thats basically £200 excluding labour. So only pay 1800 if you're willing to do the work your self (and if you do, you're bound to find other stuff worth doing). But if you do pay the full 2000, make sure he gets you a decent tyre. Whats the tyre tread like on the others? Surely the fronts are both low?

check the G-werks website, maybe they have somthing; weitec are cheapish.

8) cool

I'd be interested to know (for in a few years time); I've got the yellow sporty ones on the front but the simple black ones* on the rear - which look like they come apart. ie the rears look similar to the ones I had on the Golf (or scirocco - cant remember) which I found did come apart and was able to replace the oil. Possibly just a seal gone for you. £100 for all 4 sounds like a worthwhile spend. Let us know...

Yes, the question was recently asked HERE-click. I've not heard back off G-man for price on springs alone. aged 33 and too old? Doomed :lol:

Had similar sound and tried checking numerous things: - circular damper ring on the drive shaft could have come loose - Pads overly worn (easy to check) - warped discs - seized caliper - loose pad, as the top springs have snapped; or possibly just needing grease on rear of pad - Doubtful items: wheel bearing; part of the pad/disc breaking away... etc. Excluding the damper ring, I'd say it sound brake related, as seen as it goes away when you apply the brake. You mention the handbrake, so therefore maybe its the rear brakes. If you do a search, or just look through the drivetrain section, you'll see lots of people talking about the REAR caliper upgrade, as the original is prone to sticking on. At the rear you could have a few things go wrong; could be the handbrake cable going (unlikely), caliper piston sticking, caliper carrier pins seized. The pins in the carrier can be a common one as they will rust if the rubber boots have split (can happen if caliper done up carelessly - see other recent threads on how to fix). HTH

No idea. Maybe you could email them direct and ask the question, with correct part Nr (they'll know if its a twin tube or whatever). Being GAS, are they already in need of replacing? Which part has worn (bush,rod,seal,gas)?

EXCATLY. ans4r it has also been recently mentioned herre click. by those widths I presume you're talking about a 6.5 or 7" wide rim?

Oppinions welcome... ok, gotta be siad, its lookin a bit 4x4. No idea what Stnadard does to resale value. So, to go with 16" rims, to lower it or to not? Option 1; add 16" rims (as per ACE thread. Option 2: lower it on the 15's, as per pic Option 3: 16" and lower* *Lower - by 30mm and not the 40 it had - as page one.

205/50/15 being standard, the wheel calculator shows 205/45/16 as only being 0.84 percent bigger circumfrence, ie making little difference to the speedo. IMO I'd love a set of 16'x7's and would buy 205/45/16. Im currently running 205's on my 7's and think they work well and look fine - however to note that some tyres look different, for example these Rainsports look chunky compared to my old Dunlops.

No use for one on the VW's as the 'basic' jobs I know. Would definately use the FREE website if I got a new car and wanted to double check somthing; however would gladly buy a book if the web was to cost more - it would need to be a one off payment IMO. Videos sound a great idea. Would need to be a HUGE database to cover all cars. NB: you're asking a biased group of people

noticed the local Shell went up 2p/ltr anyway this weekend. :(

oooer, i got bolts with blue locking thread on them (x2), and two boots. Maybe the sachet fell out, as I did manage to drop everything into one communal box of new bits. Still got the box at home, the little f*kker is probably sat at the bottom of the box then Super-C. Not nutz for sure; possibly different to a VR.

mine didnt - twice Im sure it showed up as a seperate item on screen. Otherwise vw diddled me :lol:

if you're such a noivce, why not get a garage to fit it. Should only cost about £15 to fit, as its a 10min job in a garage - thats what I did, and I dont mind gettin dirty. its a b*gger of a job without a pit/lift. The rear box is fine, but connecting to the downpipe (off the manifold) can be an arse, as its probably original stuff thats rusted together. As your C will be pre-CAT, then not sure what bits you need. Also not sure how it all connects in comparison to a post 1992 C and also not sure how different your system is to a standard one. I bought VAG and needed a connecting sleeve between the straight pipe and a rear box. Should you need a clamp, I might have a spare one, but they're not light and may cost a bit to post. If you bought a system that mirrors a proper VAG one, then I'd pop along to a VW garage and ask about fitting kits, they can pull up on screen what clamps etc they sell - however, again, you local garage might have suitable (cheaper) stuff to use.

I've taken apart both front and rears off a 16v. I have no idea if the pins are the same length on front and back and no idea if they're the same as a VR. Also, as seen as people do the Mk4 rear conversion to the 16v's, I reckon that thier pins are probably the same length as 16v'ers. If you're really at a loose end - and want pins for your VR6 - I can remove the pins from mine and measure the length of them. That way if you search on ebay for carriers (with pins), you know if/(not) 16v/Mk4's work too. NB: obviously note that the rubber boots are well worth replacing - thats what I did, as I bought that little set off VAG. I then refurbished my current pins and was careful to note that the flat edges remained. Also note that you're not to use copper slip/grease on the pins as its metal based; I used a regular high-temp grease. NB2: the rubber boots that you put on as new should last years. All as long as you dont damage them. The two old boots I found with splits in were also twisted up, showing signs that the previous owner had incorrectly tightened the caliper, but NOT making sure that the sliding pin (with nut head) did not turn (by using an open-ended spanner ;; which he should've done).