StuartFZR400

maybe yours are starting to sieze. ?!? Cant see how geasing the pins would have helped much, other than let the calpier come off better. Sounds more like the pad surface needs a good rub; at first I thought you may have a metal burr lodged in at teh rear of the pad - but you've removed them since and not seen anything of the sort. You're sure the disc isnt well worn with a deep lip at the edge? If its only in reverse, I'd forget about it.

Andy, first off I hope you record the setting you used on the 15's and now the new setting on the 17's if you've got coilovers. Secondly I cant see why there are so many threads jibbering on about loosing grip etc - the weather conditions etc are having a huge say at the moment. Onto the important stuff, I know you've sorted it now, but always be aware of what everyone has told you here; there are so many factors that effect the handling. Dropping the tyre pressures will have made a huge difference if you were up at 36psi. Someone mentioned offset, thats obviously going to make a big difference too. Being on the 205 wider tyre and with a much stiffer tyre wall, the 17's are much less forgiving and you tend to get a lot more 'tramlining' - that is to say that the car feels twitchy and will even follow ruts in the road and feel nervous over white lines. Overall the 17's should give better handling on most roads, but expect a rougher ride - its choice and a compromise at the end of the day - hence so many peeps go for 16's. Took me a long while to get used to changing from 17's back to 15's - finally found a decent tyre and pressure setup.

205 50 15 its in the Wiki http://the-corrado.net/wiki 205 is ok on a 6.5 wide rim, but 195 is just as good if not better to look at. All depends what brand of tyre you get.

possible WARNING Not sure what the VR6 is like, but on the corrado you have to be careful of the rubber sheath over the sliding pins. To prevent the sliding pins from rotating, there is a nut that you put your open-ended spanner on; then you can heav-ho on that allen key as much as you like. Should the rubber sheath break, you have to buy a new pair of VAG.

looks like he was possibly running a storage business and probably not got insurance to cover; could be wrong and he may have full insurance based on full inspection and report which would cover it. Shame. Nice to see the tractor unscathed. Reminds me of Cayman a few years back; 350z :(

... random bird, one of many ... Big Bird ... joke overload :lol: I know what you mean about new estates. Im shocked if there isn't a maximum height. I had a 4x4 nearly turbo-boost over the top of me the other day, as she came up behind (oh dear) so fast, not realising that my poor C was wincing its way over them. ...oO(speed humps, what speed humps, I wouldn't know whilst applying my makeup in my 4x4). I hate those hump types but hate the mini bubble ones worse; Im sure they naff up your tracking etc, even at a reasonable speed of say 20. One has developed such a groove from the traffic, that one side of it is like a sheer cliff face and I'd be *uggered if I was to drive over it at an angle in the ice, or worse still on the bike.

at last - many thanks !!

I'd buy the one you first mention, simply because you say it works out cheaper in the long run. You know you can afford the insurance and petrol. Also bear in mind the higher costs of the VR6, simply that parts need renewing much sooner than the less powerfull cars; less of an issue if you can do most of the work your self. So if you look at other VR's, consider what work has NOT been done. Although not new to VW, I'd still make use of the forum Buying Guide too Exactly why you shouldn't have any problems selling it in 3 years time. Whereas the 16v's are dropping off, although I reckon they'll pick up come summer and all the boyracers with mummies money go hunting.

Im sure there must be some kind of maximum height, just like the 10mm allownace on footpaths, although having seen all these humps and much worse - like those brick edged ones - I cant see that there is. You got to remember its some navvy in the street slapping it down too. Im standard height now and still scrape my way into the works carpark; and when I was slammed, it was impossible to get into the NCP across the way. or was that yester-YEAR? they've had great records for years and was discussed at length in this country in different circles;;; and I'd say that safety comes first -- mostly in the bad junction high speed roads. Maybe we dont have too many lights here in Warwickshire. Roundabouts - mostly good fun, mostly helpful; the bigger ones that allow greater speed need lights at rush-hour.

Could be a number of things. The best option is to try the easy items, and less costly items first; so do try the sensor contacts. Could also ensure the face of the actual sensor is ok/CLEAN. Mine had a fault at teh rear, and turned out to be the rear sensors, for which the connection can be found under the rear seat. To find this out, I had to hook it up to a diagnostic. Some people here (Tempest) know the codes for the early Corrados. Failing this you need a VAG-com; a VW wanted £80 off me, so I found a local garage that could do it for £5.

I think most of the ideas have been covered and could potentially be down to those hard springs; seems like you will have to make do with a harsh ride once you've tweaked the setting on those coilies. The damper does little to resist the initial impact of a bump, but does prevent the car bouncing back too quickly(without a damper you'd have a wibbly wobbly ride like the yanks seem to have), its mainly down to the spring; NB *however a damper thats too firm will not allow the car to return to the rest height soon enough and if you hit a second bump very soon it will still be half compressed and therefore seem much harder; its fiddly. ,,,, An additional note to the soft shock, you can tell by a crude simple test - bounce on the given corner and see what happens. If it bonuces back up, then falls down an inch, then bounces back up a tiny bit (ie doesnt come up in one motion), its too soft; if it was a standard shock it would be deemed a dead duff one, however in your case it will mean its too soft, or alternatively if its an old oil shock, it could be a case the oil needs replacing - not likely your prob. A SECOND area to consider is the TYRE. They're all different and the alternative tyre walls will flex differently. So a different tyre brand can make a difference. A wider, less streched, tyre might give more flex and comfort or could make it worse. Pending on what tyre pressures you're running, a lower pressure (1psi) could help too. At the end of the day, if the tyre is too hard, it will not flex over the bumps and therefore loose contact - not a problem if you're only on a SMOOTH race track. Presonally I loved my low ride with super handling, but gave it all up for comfort, as the standard suspension is reasonably firm and is therefore my compromise. In a nut shell - live with it

BUMP GSF cannot give a firm answer. And I cant seem to find a pic on the web.

Anyone know if the rear brake caliper return tool for the Corrado also fits the (popular) Mk4 Golf caliper too? a picture of a Mk4 caliper may be just as helpfull, if you can show the piston face.

Does anyone want to lock this thread, as he's getting more answers in his exact same thread HERE.

Thats how I saw it too; and even if there were any gain, you're talking a minimal percentage - better off shedding some weight or somthing, lol. We've got a bike tuned where it can only use the 98+, but again we see no point in using 100+; You can often buy this if required; a friend of ours races a 205 and has to make a specail purchse and he's all set up for the gain. Not sure what point you'd get knock; no idea if the C has continuous variable timing (like a BM of whatever) to allow for this? Presume a fair few performace cars do.

Hi StewyBenson, welcome to Corrado ownership. If you're ever in doubt, you can always look in the Knowledge Base for some DIY stuff and technical specs. In there is the Wheel and Tyre Size CLICK ME page which confirms what you need; 205/50/15. At the bottom of the Wheels page is a link to another usefull page, the Tyre Bible CLICK. There you can see that different size tyres will fit. Im on 15" (diameter) rims with 7" width. The rear tyres are 195/50/15 and work just fine. Stewybenson, please be aware that when you put on new tyres they will feel different, firstly because its fresh new rubber which will move a lot more with the deeper tread. Also they may always feel different if you buy a different tyre brand/make to what you've got on; different being good or bad - you decide. Once you've found a tyre you like, I'd stick with it. There is a TYRE discussion thread HERE. A wider tyre will also feel different too, obviously, and as said, it can provide better feel/grip, pending the brand you choose. The Tyre Bible explains everything you need to know and will tell you what makes a difference; going to a wider tyre, you may find a slight adjustment of the pressures are needed, to suit your preference. You will find that lots of topics have been discussed before, so use the SEARCH tool, above, when you can. Hope that helps, good luck with the new VR6.

only the picture loaded, no word of a lie, swear, dead honest...

Bargain with only 83,000 miles on the clock!! possibly the location factor too if you bought local. Awaiting piccies

Markie, the Golf should be an easy palce to start. I used to own a Mk2 golf and did all of the work my self; there is plenty of room in these things to move about; parts are fairly cheap too, even off the main dealer VAG stuff. Brakes are only slightly dodgy if they're ABS, as they're under huge pressure; other than this is childs play. Be aware of where you're putting that Copper Slip, not funny if you put them on the wrong side of the pad; be VERY careful not to touch the abrasive side of the brake pad. Copper grese on the back of them just helps prevent rust where the caliper touches it. I'd buy a £2.99 wire brush from homebase/halfords for cleaning up bolts and stuff, as long as teh rust isn't too bad - never wire brush near to the flexi hoses and other rubber bits. If you're thinking of draining out the fluid, just be sure not to get any air into the system. The Haynes should be simple to follow, I just remember there were times that you had to use common sense and fill in the blanks your self.!!!

better off spending my money down at Stealth!

Does anyone know if THESE (click) are the wrong type too? :?:

I've always tried to do my own work; for a few reasons - relaxing, there is an element of confidence you know its been done right, you learn a little and maybe alble to bodge at the raodside, and its often cheaper. However, if its a nasty job or I just dont have time, then I gotta admit I use a local friendly garage. I've had to step in before now, seeing them do it wrong in some garages, simple stuff like fitting an exhaust. Its already been said, osme things you just cant do without some serious tools or worse still machinery - rejigging your suspension is tricky, so get it done by a pro' once you've fitted the shocks/springs your self.

GIX, I always thought it had to be road legal if it were in there. Your diag seems to say Tyres & Roadwheels - bit of a general statement, can that not also mean the spare (makes sense)?

cubed I hope your problem is sorted by now, but I must say that even my well planted C has been drifting due to the high winds at the moment, which cannot be seen as the trees dont have any leaves on them. However its always good to check those axle bushes. As for your tyre pressures they say you can't go wrong with manufacturer settings, which is fairly true, but it also allows for large loads that you may carry in your boot. An unlaiden car can use a lower pressure. When on my 17"'s I was running about 30 in the rear and somthing reasonably low in the front. Whereas now on the 15"'s, these have a larger squidgy tyre wall, I run at a higher pressure, closer to what you said, maybe even 36 rear. Also remember it depends upon the actual tyre make. Remembering what the 17's were like, I must say that these tramline a lot, but thats more noticeable at low speeds - not what you're talking about.

Glad its fairly sorted. The rest of the problem could now be in your head; get a friend to dirve it. Otherwise go back through our checklist. dom I presume you've looked at the previous page to this thread and will be willing to test the different ideas? When you say 'clunking' I presume you mean on full lock whilst moving forward? Therefore sounds most likely the joint, at either end - signs of the rubber boot being cracked is a sure sign of this which means you'd need a new joint (not unusual for an old car). Hope That Helps (HTH). HOWEVER, having read your thread, you mention loss of handling etc, and therefore everyones comments about the bushes maybe true - get them checked.