StuartFZR400

the first one may be put on wrongly.

Tom, you were right to keep with the water, as thats the first place to keep cool. 110 is about the max i get, on a muggy day in a traffic jam, otherwise its a lot less. I'd only bother with an oil cooler if i continued to have high oil temps but low water temps, and having tried a thicker oil (which can reduce heat problems). Glad you're back in the cool 8)

C is looking good. Should be plenty of miles left in it yet, so forget anyone who poopoos old VW's. They're also an easy car to self fix. If you're into DIY, then you'll get familiar with the forum and the common phrases like GSF :) Enjoy the C !! ps - know whats been done to it? For instance, what alloys are those, they seem to look like a 16" BBS replica.

welcome. The Wiki CLICK is your first port of call for how to fix your C; failing that there is often a fountain of knowledge on here. A car lying idle for some time will need driving tehn checking for errors and replace a few things; being that age you expect the usual rubber/plastic items to perrish. Pending how long its lay idle for, it maybe even worth your while greasing hubs up and stuff - doubtfull.

It might possibly put a dent into the old tourist numbers too; the amount of people I know who go over just to have a long blat. Maybe its all pie in the sky too. I hear what you're saying though and I can foresee a day when all cars are limited to thier countrys max speed and also tracked 100% of the time. Its a shame that the enthusiast will suffer. Ther are so many people on the roads that dont need to be. For me it was a good 2 mile walk to school at a young age, then when i was older it was a 4 mile ride; yet todays kids get nipped round the corner; mums complain that they have to use the shopping malls instead of the local corner shop; but as you say there is no need for MPV's & 4x4's. A friend of mine works for the social and says that they get peopel coming in asking for money (those who claim to be hard up), however they often ask for crazy stuff like: "can you pay my car tax".... well whats wrong with your legs and public transport - how did you afford a car? ****-take!

VAG ABS rear sensors for the 16v are a tad expensive. GSF only list the rear ABS for the Golf (Mk3); one being upto 1994 for £60+/each and then 1995 onwards for £30(roughly)/each. The guy at GSF described them as looking the same. Anyone know which ones will do the job for the c? Stu ps - quick question: what pads do people use on the front? I plan to run the G60 280 discs and am not sure if padgid will be upto the job.

VAG are quoting me £73 each + vat, Supercharged

:shock: , well seems the way to go then, although I'd want NEW calipers - so the VAG ones will do. Spoke to GSF, they only do the discs. A fair price of £23/each. Any feedback on the Brembo's?

how much additional power do you reckon this small investment will return?

Converting the 16v 2.0 to the G60 set and am unsure if I've got the right prices... VAG on the phone today: - Discs £34/each - Calipers £42/each - Carriers £73/each So for 2 of each, plus VAT, comes to £352. Someone thought that the Carriers might be under £100/pair at VAG? GSF any better? Did the G60 brakes change at any time? Would '93 G60 brakes fit a 2.0L?

ahhh, the beauty of owning a full set of weird sockets :) and long allenkeys the rears are much simpler 8)

can you put that carrier to one side for me while i look for the offside? ps - does it need to be G60, or can it be Golf Mk3 Gti too? (and hows about Mk4? .... as seen on ebay.)

hmmmm, one side at a time; could be interesting Jim... Hows the C - not seen yu about? .IS THIS RIGHT? The G60 Upgrade can be done by::: ...callipers and carriers from a MK3 Golf GTI (checked the disc diamater was 280mm), and new Corrado G60 discs and pads. This way there is no modification required, no filing or alteration to anything.

As they are hydraulic, I guess there is no need to worry about clearances or a need for replacing valves. £100 roughly, ok, a bit more than predicted but still ok. And I understand that chain is about £10. 8) Hmmmm; then Im planning on uprating the front discs too - the current ones are knackered. Maybe worth doing the caliper too??? Having problems finding people threads on the specific issue in hand on brakes for a 16v and potential upgrades (for a reasonable price - whtout going brembo calipers or whatever is possible)

1. Just wanted confirmation that the 1994 2.0 16v uses Hydraulic Tappets on the valves??? 2. And can anyone confirm how easy a job this is? (looked in wiki with no luck) 3. And typical cost of tappets? 4. Thinking of doing a job lot too; cam belt, timing chain. Anything else worth doing? Thanks, Stu

No idea on genuine VAG CV costs but could be fine; its just the labour at vag you got to consider.

its a slippery slope Nuggit

Are you looking to fix this your self? If so I'd be taking a look at a fiar few things. Does the wheel have much play in it to suggest bearings gone? Have you taken the wheel off to see if the brake caliper is securely fixed, that the pads are not too loose? Also take a look at teh driveshaft boot to look for signs of cracks in the rubber and potential joint problems. I know a few good places to take the C to in the Mids. Volksline in Nuneaton seem to be ok, but I personally go to Pete Holland in Leamington.

Boy oh boy its been a boring week so far and set to continue in the same vein. People are talking about getting rid of thier Corrados on the forum and I can see mine sat there not getting any younger and wondering if it will make it to my next important meeting, or if I'll be left at the roadside calling out the rac. So its been a while since I saw any funny or interesting stories on here, be it in the Corrado or not; just road related. Anyone miffed with speed humps, speed cameras, chavs, mobile phone users? you name it. Alternatively if you have an interesting story of how you came to buy your corrado or maybe had a fun journey in it you wish to share... As for me, Ive seen nothing really new, except one thing and I was in a rush to get to work. Leaving the M6 I saw plod a few cars back so took note of him. Ahead from another road onto the roundabout I saw a Nissan 350z with his hazzards flashing. I was going to flash him when I realised his alarm was going off. Next thing plod comes up the inside of me and pulls 350z over futher up; you could see the middle-aged bloke jibbering on; you can only guess hat his excuse was. Plod took the usual stance of putting on his hat can coat and slowly walking upto the car. Stu 8)

But whats the VR worth? If you're looking for a cheap runner that costs little to buy, then I'd wait until spring whereby you'll get your asking price for the C. But if you're after a newer car thats intended to be kept for 6 years and is also affected by seasonal pricing, then surely you need to buy that now and sell the C now too. But as said, I guess you're getting a sensible deisel hatch - therefore leave it until April.

If you're looking at £800 then I'd buy it. But with your Corrado experience Id be looking at the usual stuff to go at that age/miles; how are the shocks, spoiler etc? But at 120k miles, Id still expect it to be ok. Mines done 108 and the seat is fine. I'd be warey of a hard life; offer him buttons. The real cruncher is that paint - surely it could cost between £1,000 to £2,000 to get a respray.

shame you never liked your C; I love mine and will be sad the day it goes. Age is not on its side though :( (if only I could afford to keep it as a 2nd car).

:thumbleft: classy collection 8) Look forward to hearing more and let us know when you've put some nicer alloys on too

Very different slant on the usual Budget Buys. Even if it was staged, it was highly funny and the toot of horns on the highway would be real, as they drove along with those funny comments. The Bull is bound to get a few veggies or animal rights people on the phone to BBC..... :D

I presume it vibrates so much that you can see it shaking? If you simply feel it vibrate a tiny amount, then thats probably normal. Just make sure you NEVER drive along with your hand resting on the shifter, as you'll knackers the mesh.