Supercharged

Yep - done this ti every MK2 and Corrado i've owned - makes them feel like new again!

Someone else had a similar problem with VAGCOM on a VR and found the ECU was for a 2.8 engined golf... worth checking!

I always thought it was just standard 8mm!!

It's G60 specific but have you checked the brush pack?? Tensioner - just use a large jubilee clip round it as a spring compressor

I think alot of people run without these - a common failure on the VR

Soft-faced mallet.... fook knows! You going to E37 Stu?

The spring is on the back of the clutch pedal - may have to remove that lower shelf to see it... I reckon it must be in the clutch assembly if Vince thought you should get it changed again... grease can't do any harm tho and neither can changing the slave but it's unlikly to help gear changes unless the original is knackered...

Stethascope? Yeah the release bearing is part of the clutch kit but the sleeve and the fork (the bit the slave cyl actuates) is not usually changed as part of a clutch change unless damaged... Was a genuine clutch kit fitted?? I know Stealth had a lot of warranty issues with LuK and SACHS pattern kits from GSF but this was normally judder, not creaking... Maybe worth spraying some white grease onto the sping on the pedal box, also mayb worth changing the slave cyl if it's an original cast iron one (new ones are ally with plastic sleeve)

Thats just thoese 4 that holds it on Stu - see Tim's post above, we smacked the hell out of it and could not free it, left it over night in PlusGas and it just dropped... DON'T remove the crank bolt!!!

Need to find out if the creak is inside the box or not - if so it could be the clutch fork or release bearing sleeve altho these should really have been changed as a matter of course if you've had 3 clutches...

Just to add to this - make sure you either use VW hose or good quality 'ribbed' fuel injection hose that is made to be bent like that, genuine hose clips also a very good idea... I'd also recommend you change the other 2 fuel pies (also 15 years old) as they also start to perish at the clips...

Good method Andy altho I seem to get on ok with *good* waterpump pliers... Keep meaning to pick up the right tool tho after using one down at G-werks... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Facom-Flat-Band-H ... dZViewItem

Sorry - BTS = Blue Temp Sender (Coolant Temp Sender from ECU on VW's)

http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pag ... engine=G60 Cheeeeeeeep - not sure about shipping tho...

Yeah - typical that it happens on a BH so you can't get the parts... GSF should have the bits in stock tho and also sell Eezibleeds - if you are a member of the Corrado Club you should also get 10% off... It's not a difficult job btw - if your an apprentice it's same level as changing a couple of brake calipers - POP!

Just to add - no Haynes manual for a Corrado altho the MK3 Golf one should cover the hydro clutch setup altho what I have written above will probably explain things better and in more detail so you might as well send me a cheque for £14.99 :lol: The only manual really worth buying is the US Bentley Manual that is specific to the Corrado but only covers the 2.8 VR6 and G60 engines... look on Amazon.CA Be interesting if you find out what has actually failed - could be just that broken rod but I wonder if something else has caused it?

Ok - basically the slave is the smaller (cheaper) one on top of the gearbox which actuates the clutch (follow the pipe from the master) The slaves usually go as the originals were metal sleeved inside and rot eventually (or quickly due to lack of fluid changes) - It's normal practice to change this with the master as it will fail eventually so i would unless it looks new... The pipe from the res to the master is just a feed (so no pressure), take half the fluid out the res before removing... I would suggest unbolting the slave and master and taking the hole lot out with pipe attached altho if you can get to them it may be worth cracking the nuts holding the pipe open with a brake spanner while they are secured to the car... The master (as you'll see from the new one) comes with 2 studs (one sticks out slightly bulkhead side to hold a small metal bracket) - it's held onto the pedal box by 2 13mm nuts (inside the car) Hope that helps - good luck with it!

GSF do some nice cheap fronts now but there also rears which they also sell - more expensive tho as the come with loom attached - also look on VWspares... You can compare resistance (unplug at top of suspension turrets and under rear seats) - see if one is different to the rest... Also could be just some crud stuck to the sensor - worth taking to a jetwash every so often!

Yip - worth changing the BTS anyways... Clear the codes and re-scan in a week, does the car drive ok??

If the rod has actually snapped then its a new MC then i'm afraid, not too bad to get to but you should also replace the slave at the same time... My mate bought a master from GSF last week, cost £70 and was a proper VAG boxed part, slave is another £30 Unusual that it has snapped (or maybe just popped out?) - if it's actually snapped then the master must be shot I reckon... You will need an eezibleed etc after fitting new...

:norty:

Inner CV... should be ok to just replace the boot depending on how long it's been like that... (may have been a stone ripping it if you went thru any flooding?) Clean all the old grease out and replace as it may hold grit...

I actually managed to get a pair from my local Audi for £55 exchange but that was stupidly cheap as one was old stock... VW have just put prices up by about 10% accross the board but you should be able to get them for under £40 with CCGB discount but it depends on the dealer - if not try GSF, should be cheaper than that again with CCGB discount!

Hi mate - good pics! You need to buy 2 MK1 water hoses to replace (they didn't have the OE head exchanger as the GTi's came with a proper mocal style one!) - they cost about £15 over here for the pair from VW 8)

Goodridge are fairly useless... But GSF do a good price on the late MK3 VR6 kit (less than £40 with CCGB discount) and this is correct, only issue maybe the banjo bolts thread pitch but you can try these and if not correct then either use the originals or get some new from a bike shop (or VW)