Supercharged

Another one to add to the swear filter... Not on here please Steve! - thats got to be one of the worst bits of kit fitted by VW on a car...

Really?? I've never tried doing a Corrado bulb without taking the units out but I thought about it the other day when we couldn't get the rusted screws off my mates one...

Yeah Bill - got to be easier than doing a Corrado bulb in situ tho!!

I always do Rodders :lol: I do find use of a ladder also helps... I hope Mr Sands hasn't started taking the bumper off!

Should be - check it's not proud of the hub tho as i'm wondering if the disc has moved round and is now not sitting flat...

Bollocks... The pass side is tricky as you need to remove the battery but both sides can be done with the units in the car, there is a clip on a plastic plug, remove these then unclip the bulb... Think it's the same procedure with the gas lamps but I know you have to be careful as they can explode!

Yeah - probably made it sound more complicated than it is but worth making sure you have the correct tools before you start! Do us a favour tho - can you update this with anything i've missed in the above then I will copy it into the knowledge base...

Yeah - screw only helps locate the wheel bolts, new ones from VW a torx headed how but the main reason for failure is people don't change them for new when changing discs or they don't undo them before undoing hub nuts... I spoke to a chap at a local meet over the weekend who had to drill one of his and he said they were seriously hard - had to use a cobalt tipped bit i think...

Welcome to the forum, Good manual to get is the Russek one - £6.49 from WHsmiths website - free delivery to localbranch Bit of a job getting to it on a VR but not hard... 2-3 hours at a lazy pace... (More if you have probs with rusty bolts etc, recomend Irwin Bolt grippers if you think you might have probs!) Tip - PlugGas all the bolts a day of two in advance and also heat the engine up slightly before starting 1 - Leads out - you will need the plastic lead tool (should be on the bonnet stay or clipped to jack handle - if not buy the metal version from VW T10029) 2 - Next take off the cable guides - 3 splined bolts (will need a set of splines - halfords) 3 - Inlet manifold bolts - need at least 8mm hex key and pref. socket to undo these - some a bit tricky to get to so be careful not to round them! - worth buying a few new ones from VW or maybe getting some in stainless (M8x30 cap head) 4 - Throttle body bolts - same advice as above 5 - Revove vac pipe to inlet and lift off - maybe a few electrical plugs to move out the way... 6 - Now you should be able to the the RC - nuts or bolts to undo to release it depending on whether it's the plastic or metal version. 7 - Lightly oil new gasket to seal it and make sure the cover goes back on without snagging it (easy to do on a VR as they don't come flat) 8 - reverse of removal [/haynes] 9 - don't overtighten RC bolts - do them up in a sequence like a head gasket so it seals down well... 10 - maybe worth slapping some new plugs in at the same time, especially if the gasket was leaking oil all over them (10mm sparkplug socket needed - halfords)

Oh... :lol: Yeah - as above check the seal is good - not out of shape...

Yeah sorry - did this on sunday, mk4 rears fitted and bled brakes, pumped pedal about 30 times and connected handbrake cables... Handbrake feels great and locks on the second notch of the ratchet, looking at the adjustment they have not been touched from the factory and the plate is perfectly straight so i'm happy to leave it... Only slight issue is the boots on the handbrake cable are knackered to i greased them and i will try and buy some new ones if you can get seperatly... Cheers

They are doing some good trackdays on RAF Woodbridge now - run by Javelin who have a really good rep!

Yeah - they come loose...

Welcome to the forum... Doubtfull it will be the seal as they're bonden (unless it's been out / badly fitted etc) Check the sunroof drain channels - basically water goes thru the seal and sits on the tray you see as you open the roof, there are 2 holes where the water runs to the wheel arches - rod these out with a bike brake cable or guitar string...

ziderapple, deffo!

If the car is on level ground with the wheels straight then that top mount is foooked

Eric - they do a small version of the bolt grippers at machine mart - perfect for screws as long as you can get a socket round them, also may have to file slightly to fit the socket...

Err, yeah you'd be stupid not to change the chains while your there... As with any chain they stretch and will slowly pull the timing out, I have also heard of a few cases of them snapping but admitedly this is on high mileage cars and is probably due to them starting to wear against the rivets in the original tensioners...

Therapor, I think he's on about a Jetex one tho, same as I have... Yeah mines the same - also notice you don't have to clean the inside of the windscreen now either.... Thought about cleaning mine under a tap as I do K&N's but don't want to damage it's ability to catch pollen...

Try another dizzy - could be the hall sender breaking down.

I got some of those fuses (had to buy 10) - I'll bring a couple to the RR day...

KADVR6, what happened??

Hi, is there a procedure for adjusting the handbrake at the lever end? I know how to adjust but wondered what I need to look for, if one mech moves before the other then adjust the other one? how far should it rise before the mech moves?

VR6 also uses the same calipers and carriers but yes, G60 discs...

Have you changed the MAF?