poll250

Love the banded steelies mate, they 15 or 16s? Do you ride BMX?

Nothing like a bit of thread resurrection for a Monday afternoon. I'm gonna fit my Brembos tomorrow, and was just thinking about the easiest way to bleed them. If I ensure that the fluid level is kept topped up in the resevoir, and because I'm only doing the fronts: am I correct in thinking I can just disconnect the brake line from the hard line, connect the new one attached the calliper and then release the bleed nipple on top of it. There shouldn't be any air in the system apart from in the new parts right? so in theory I could actually attach the hoses to the hardline with the calliper bleed nipple already open, and this would force the air out, so when fluid starts coming out they're done! Sounds easy right! Let me know if there are any holes in my plan! ( I do have an eazibleed should I need, but just thought this sounded like a pretty straightforward plan) Andy

Bad luck Joni. Seems strange that they'd make and advertise pulleys 70- 105mm but you can't actually fit one larger than 80mm without running into problems. I guess it must just be an issue with the way they fit to the vr head compared to other cars. I guess I'll got for an 84 and 80mm pulley to be safe then! What's the crack with head spacers? CrazyDave said I should def get one, and would run I to problems past 250bhp without one? The engine I'm getting from Karl has just had a new head gasket and I didn't really want to change it straight away, but if it's essential I'm sure it can't be too hard! What's a good one to go for? Dubpower?

Thanks very much for the Kev, a lot of food for thought! I like the look of that MAF too I'm in contact with CrazyDave and C2 so we'll see what happens over the next few weeks as I start assembling the large pile o' parts! Andy

Love CHs on a Rado. This car's perfect in my eyes!

Ok, I'm starting to get a bit of a list together of what I'll need to order. It seems to be getting longer by the day at the moment lol. So at the moment I'm planning to run a recently refurbed engine/box with a new standard clutch and Wavtrac diff in, VT front and rear mount and standard GB mount. The HG has just been replaced and I don't really want to mess with ARP bolts etc at this time. For Cooling I'm thinking of going for a progressive DevilsOwn kit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Devils-O ... ccessories and for monitoring AFR, an Innovate LC-1 Wideband with gaugel ike below: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Innovate-DB-Red-L ... 19b88db4eb I'll keep an eye out for some red tops, they're all 150 + shipping at the moment :( and a Walbro intank pump as suggested. I should be able to sell my brand new standard fuel pump for a good amount! Will I need a new sender unit for the Walbro GSS340? With fuelling, cooling and a good strong standard engine, how much boost could I run? 10psi? or would I need ARP bolts at that stage? Then comes the hardest part - MAPPING! I've got three options I guess: 1. I was thinking of using the 10K resistor trick on the MAF, in conjunction with the LC-1(well hopefully with someones help!) to run until I'm happy with everything. 2. Get it remapped at Stealth/Storm 3. Get some management from C2 - I've been in contact with them and they've been really helpful so far, I'm still not sure exactly how it works though - and they say that as I have an older 6-pin MAF I can't go over 8psi as the 3inch housing is too small. Is this true? If I'm honest I don't really understand the C2 software - do they just give you a generic chip for your mods, and then you need to buy aa new chip when you change something like say cams or up the boost? If anyone has any suggestions I'd love to hear them! Andy

That's a bit shocking, I was imagining a lot more scope for playing with boost levels. The smallest pulley is only 70mm, so not much room on either the 84 or 94! Do you have the 84 or 94? C-30 or SP-30 model type? What bhp/torque are you pushing out with the 80mm?

Hey Stu, Thanks for the compliments, the gearknob looks spot on and feels really good, so thanks for the inspiration on the one :) Let me know when you're in OX and we'll have to meet up, I live right in the centre. With respect to the dials, I think I used some of my dads modelling glue on the inside, and just left it for about 10 mins to set, been fine for a couple of years now and I've had the heater front panel off a fair few times too! Cheers Karl, be interested to take a look at them for sure, getting a bit tired of brushing my head on the roof lol

Thanks for that Kev, looking at the photo more they do look orange and not brown, no wonder google didnt provide any answers! :brickwall: What sort of price should I be looking to pay for a set of 6 red tops? 100 quid sound right? Would 440cc Green tops be overkill? Andy

Hey guys, Thanks for the responses! I was thinking about a walbro or an inline pump, I just replaced mine wih a new Standard pump and sender 2 months ago though! Will have to see if anyone has one going I guess. I've seen a set of cleaned Browntop injectors on vr6oc, but can't seem to find any info on there size, anyone got an idea? Pullies are about 60 euro I think Rob, I was thnking 85-90mm to start with, better safe than sorry I think. With regard to cooling, I've got an wanted ad on a few forums at the moment, if they don't produce anything I'll get a devilsown system off eBay, they're about 250 shipped, not bad for Consistent boost and a bit of peace of mind. I'll be in the USA in March so may pick up some stuff like cams while I'm out there and save a few bob, that is if I can hold back that long though lol

Hey guys, I'll hopefully be buying and fitting a Rotrex charger in the next month or so, just had a few questions for you knowledgable people :) Having read 45 pages of this thread, and various others concerning Rotrex's I have a fair idea of what I'm in for, but just a couple of things I need to know: Does anyone who has a Storm 6 or 10psi kit fitted ( with the C30-84 charger) know the pulley size they supply for each? I've emailed them a few times and just rang them, and was told that they can't tell me the pulley size until I've bought a kit from them. Something to do with the fact that once I know the pulley size I can just go somewhere else and buy one instead. I've heard from quite a few sources that even the 6psi kit alone will be good for 280bhp on a standard engine, and I'm hoping to add a decat, 6 branch and 262 cams at the same time, so thinking 6psi would give me about 300bhp. At what stage do the standard injectors give up? Does anyone have an idea of what pulley size I should go for? The last thing I want is to end up producing too much boost to start with, as I know this has happened to quite a few people with these chargers. Andy

I've got this problem on my VR, well had it for about 2 years. I just unplugged the high speed fan sensor from the thermostat housing (its the one on the right in my car) and that's avoided the problem for the last couple of years. I guess I'd advise taking a look your sensor and seeing if its knackered, not expensive to replace if it is, and I should get round to replacing mine soon I guess! Andy

Have you checked the plugs? I had a plug blow out last year and it sounded like that at idle, and alot like a beetle when on the move. Andy

Sorry missed this, Yeah fronts are from a Mk3 Golf Colour Concept with MK2 subframes welded on. They fit on the runners ok but sit a couple of inches higher than standard Rado seats, so theres about 2 inches between my head and the roof! (I am 6'3 though...) Once this snow finally melts I'm gonna get my old rado seat bases out and see if I can get something mashed together to make them sit lower. I was thinking I might be able to mount the red leather bolsters and centre base to the standard Corrado seat base, and then attach the mk3 back rest to the Corrado seat base. May just be wishful thinking though! Andy

Hi Mate, These are the ones that I've got: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0402468764 They're the only ones I could find that would fit 312mm discs. Hope that helps, Andy

Thanks Alex, Sprayed my grey cards with black vinyl spray and they look a lot better, but I really should sort something better out! Was thinking about the Red ones Karl had up recently, but not sure if that would of been too much red in the cabin. Think they've sold now though anyway. You still got your early cards? How's the sale going? I reckon it'd be such a shame to let it go after you've done so much to it. Get rid of one of those Minis instead! Andy

Those CSL wheels are my favourite ever, looks stunning with them on. Andy

Cheers for the comments guys. Really love the combination of Aqua Blue and red, works so well in my opinion. The car is so much nicer to be in and drive now, still a good bit to do yet though :) I haven't changed the gearbox oil yet, it's on my list although I think the linkages themselves are pretty damn worn, as this clip Shows there's so much slop in the gearstick even when in gear: Nothing seems to be broken, just a lot of worn plastic lol! I think the O2J linkage will sort it out no end, but will definitely do the oil too just to be sure! I should really get some better quality photos up too, most of them were taken on my iPhone. Andy

Well, where do I start? I've been a member of the forum for a few years, and have found the help I've received pretty astonishing to be fair. I started out with little mechanical knowledge, and have suprised myself by how much work I have been able to do myself. I've been meaning to post a Members thread for a while, and these 2 snow days have given me the perfect excuse to get one up! Like most on here I always loved the look of Corrados when I was young. Once I left uni and got a proper job I quickly got bored of driving a 1.0 Toyota Starlet about and so ended up getting my self a nice looking '93 Moonlight Blue VR from the ever slimey TCS in Swadlincote. It was at the cheaper end of the VR scale but the top end of my price range at the time! Unfortunately, after only 3 days of ownership someone smashed into the back of me and wrote it the heck off! This turned out to be quite a godsend, as on further inspection it turned out the car had been written off previously and had a fair few problems lurking. After a couple of months of battling I got a good deal from the insurance company and got myself a shiny 'new' 'rado :) After looking at a couple, I plumped for a completely standard '94 Aqua Blue VR with 120,00 on the clock. It had been well looked after and had a laminated folder full of old receipts and was in good nick. I took her straight home and nabbed some of the better parts from the written off rado- namely the 17" OZ alloys and lowered springs. This made it look so much better straight off the bat. I think it was pretty plain saling for a while -it did the whole stalling at junctions thing for a while (cleaned MAF and ISV sorted that out), it sprang a coolant leak so replaced the thermostat housing and all the sensors and all was well again :) Happy times! Somewhere along the way I bought some Weitec Hicon Coilovers from Gwerks, had the sump replaced after a nasty incident with an unfinished road and an exposed manhole cover, refurbed and fitted 312 front brakes and new discs, pads and bearings all round. In April of this year I moved in with my GF, a few days later both front tyres had to be replaced, swiftly followed by the heater matrix going, the front wheel bearings making a horrible noise, the handbrake lever pulling out of the body, the windscreen wiper mech breaking and the heater matrix blowing.! I continued to let things slide over the summer, I had very little spare money and just wasn't sure how much I wanted to plough into the 'Rado, especially as things seemed to be breaking on a near weekly basis! I guess when the clocks changing I wasn't outside as much, and so my mind went back the state of the car, the clutch had started slipping and gearbox mount was on it's last legs, not to mention the fact that no heating in winter is RUBBISH! So I made the decision to get the rado into the shape I'd always wanted. I'll let the photos do the talking! Heater Matrix replaced with dash in, on my parents driveway. Did it in the evenings over a week after work. Was the most annoying fiddly job I could imagine! Leaning over the engine undoing the nuts through the bulkhead was horrendous, as the bolts were just spinning when the nuts turned, plus it was a horrible position to stand in lol Dash all back together hurrah! Spot the Grey carpets: YUK! These were to be my next point of attack, Everything out! At this stage I replaced all carpets with a nice black set and sprayed all the grey plastics black with some (read A LOT) of vinyl spray and a couple of layers of Lacquer. With that done it was time to turn my attention to the seats, the grey cloth had seen better days and I hated looking at it, in my eyes it really let the car down, so, having seen KADVR6s threads re dyeing leathers I got in contact with him for some advice. Needless to say he was an absolute legend helping with all my queries, and within a couple of weeks I had a nice package from Furntiture Clinic turn up, as well as acquiring a set of Mk3 Colour Concept Recaros from Alex (Foster). I soon got to work with the various sponges and spray gun, making a good mess of our bathroom and some carpet (all sorted now!) The fronts before: After a couple of layers with a sponge: Getting there: Finished product: Now a few pictures of them fitted :) Before: :gag: :cuckoo: After: I'm really happy with the way they look tbh, not having done this kind of thing before they turrned out pretty good. I've got a couple of areas to finish up, and the seats currently sit on Mk2 subframes so are a bit high. I've got my old bases knocking about so will hopefully work something out with them soon. Overall they're very nice and comfortable and hold you very well. 1000 times better than the old grey cloth in any case. With this all done, my gearknob started to look a bit shabby and was fraying all over the shop, so after a bit of consultation with StueyB, I sorted myself a nice Audi S-line knob, which fit pretty well after a bit of stretching! Really happy with the look and feel of it. I then turned my attention to the steering wheel and found myself a nice 320mm Momo Corse wheel at a good price. It feels good in the hand and is a really good size comapared to the standard wheel, makes getting in and out easier for a tall lad like me too so thats a bonus! Last on the list of current interior mods was the dials and switches. Red LEDs in the switches and indicators made a huge difference, despite my feable attempts at soldering! and the DDI dials really bring the cabin into the 20th, if not 21st century! After a lot of fiddling I used a UV Blacklight tube off eBay to get the needles lit properly: Drilled a couple of holes and slotted the UV tube in: Finished article: So that's just about where we stand today! Replaced in total: Thermostat housing and sensors Clutch and Gearbox mount R32 Wishbone bushes Passat heater controls Red Leds in dash DDI dials + Reverse Mod Blood red Colour Concept Recaros and rear bench Uprated headlight Loom + Osram NightBreaker bulbs New Fuel pump relay, Fuel Pump and sender. BMC CDA Replaced all grey plastics/carpets with black Daves door lock mod Film tinted red rears 320mm Momo Corse wheel Lupo Aero Wipers fully refrubed 312mm brake conversion fully refurbed rear callipers, new discs, pads bearings Weitec Rear ARB Polybush rear beam Immediate plans are to get these fitted: with the help of some 10mm H+R hubcentric spacers that should be on there way soon :) Callipers are from the rear of a Boxster (thanks Mort) and look brand new, hoses are stainless Badger 5 jobbies and I plumped for carriers from a guy on eBay to fit my current 312 discs. (Look to be a good set) Really excited to get these on now :) Should be ample stopping power for me tbh. Might get some Red Porsche decals for them or just some Brembo ones, we'll see. Also getting a modified O2J shift tower from Neal (87Jetta16V) which should tighten up my gearchange a fair old bit, as at the moment if feels horrendously worn out. Then in the next couple of months I'll hopefully be putting in a reconditioned VR lump and 'box, if all goes to plan anyways ;) The engine has currently done 146k and doesnt sound its best anymore, so i think a refresh is in order, and I can't really afford a full rebuild myself or any 24V 'upgrade'. I would be very interested in any 'charger or Turbo setups going at a good price though :) :) :) Quick shot from today: So I guess that's it for now, just want to Thank anyone that's helped me over the last couple of years with all the niggly little problems I've had, none of my friends are that into VWs really so when something goes wrong, the forum is a real lifesaver! You've all been amazing, THANKS! Any comments welcome, still very much a 'work in progress' Thanks for reading, Andy

Love moonlight blue, this looks mint.

Yeah I looked at them, might ge a set but my problem seems to be the play in the top part of the shifter mechanism itself.

Be really interested to see how this turns out Mort. If you have any spare I'd take one off your hands as this is the state of my shift at the moment:

Thanks for all your help Marc, I think they must have changed the wiring post '90 as this is what I have: http://picasaweb.google.com/poll250/UntitledAlbum#5417395648546581554 1st row: 1-13 are white wires, 14 is red/black http://picasaweb.google.com/poll250/UntitledAlbum#5417395647973612498 2nd row: 15 red/white, 17 purple/white.19 green, 21 brown/white. hmmm! I got the dials working today at least :) They come on when the ignition is on as I tapped them into the yellow/grey wire in the headlight switch, I may try to tap into the dimmer wire so they can be turned down a bit.

Which Weitecs are you guys comparing to the V1s? As far as I know, Hicon-GTs are exactly the same as KW V1s, just not stainless, so they should both have the same ride characteristics.

Ok, I just took a closer look and the only non-White wires going into he back of the cluster are: Red/black Red/White Brown/White Purple/White Green i chcked the back of the headlight switch and the wire coming from the dimmer is indeed blue/ grey as suggested. I had a lookin bentley and I think the red/black is live when the ignition is on, but I can't find any reference to the colour for the dimmer cable. Anyone got a clue for a 94 vr?