olly elworthy

tool only refits, for removal, cut the flanged end off of the bush and drill all the rubber out of the inside, drift out with a large hammer, its best to remove the beam completley when doing this job as it saves you hitting things when the beam is still attached to the car, also gives you a good chance to paint the beam up!! time? a few hours, depending on how brake pipes undo etc,,

and im getting 11psi on a standard rebuilt charger and stock pulley :D think this is about right! just the air fuel gauge to wire in now!

might blow a few gaskets if it were!! :lol: still getting all that oily air back into the charger with these so suppose they arent that good of an idea,,, :?

sorry forgot to add the link!! :shock: http://www.cypressconcepts.com/ :)

bored and looking around just seen these blanking off plates with oil breather connection, good idea :?: no need for catch tank etc with these,,,

ill try to take a pic of the one I made, but for now , ill give a description it basically consists of a threaded bar, and a shaped 8mm thick peice of steel the same shape as the outside surface f the bush, the threaded bar goes through this shaped "washer" and through the bush then through the beam, a large (2" 3/4 inch drive) socket is put in the beam end of the bar and a nut and a washer, grease the new bush up and the threaded bar and turn the nut on the beam end , this will pull the new bush squarely into the hole, as i say i will try to post up a pic of my tool, it works excellently,,, :D

exact same thing happened to me too, strange how it happened same time as fitting the radio too!! be sure to buy a genuine switch as these are troublesome on corrados!!

I was there but not with my rrado, was talking to you just after the lovley claire had taken your mk1 g60 out for a thrashing!!

YA HAVE oil temp on your MFA anyway, so the air fuel gauge is defo more usefull

prob with g60`s are first and second gears are too short, get vr 1st and second gears and input shaft, and get stealth to build it up for ya,,, thats what henny`s done and he`s happy with it,,, :D

any of you folks know the exact capacity for the gear oil? just a case of fill up till it flows out of the level plug?

pheonix exhausts in cullompton devon would help you, bit far away from london though!

ive seen some of these german style plates but with a gb logo in them instead, still pressed steel and still the same font, a bit cheeky but prob less likeley to get pulled than with german lgo on them, so kinda german english plates :D

cheers,, hopefully its just something silly,,,

any of you guys with vag-com near devon then? wouldnt mind tyring it out? :?:

got a fault with mine at the mo, works perfectly 80% of the time except if i brake realy hard and let off slightly, it sends the light on, but the abs works most of the time in light braking or if i brake to a complete standstill its fine,, trying by proccess of elimination to work out where the fault is, may be the pedal position sensor? or maybe worth me bleeding the whole system and changing the fluid? think ive read that you must have the ignition turned on to bleed these systems? if it gets complicated or expensive was thinking of removing it though, just seeing if it was possible, ive made lots of brake pipes up before so that part of it would not be a problem,,, would like to gvet the abs fixed really though, cos when its working properly it is excellent,, :D

thinking of removing my abs system on the corrado completeley, would it just be a case of re plumbing in all the brake pipes to the master cylender, or are the parts different on the abs models, i.e. different piston diameters etc? was thinking it may just be a case of all new brake pipes and cross linking the system with two t pieces like on a mk2 golf,,, :D

warm em up like henny says, they come off surprisingly easy then,,,

shame your a bit far away!! , ill try get some pics on here,,, :)

I take the whole axle off that way you can get at the bushes easier, drift the old bushes out , (after removing all the rubber part from inside) and replace them pressing them in with a tool which i fabricated from some threaded bar and some steel plate, its not so bad, you just need to look at the profile of the face of the bush as it is higher on one side than the other, and make a top plate for the puller so it is stepped, that way it pulls the bush in parallel, hope that helps, pm me for my phone number if you require a better explanation, Ill try and post pics of the tool i made, honestly its a doddle if you spend half hour making up a tool first,,, :D

when i had my charger rebuilt it was covered internally in some greasy coating that i believe is to increace the sealing effect of the apex seals, ive done a few thousand miles now, and when i had the airbox off to change my belt tensioners at the weekend i noticed the inside of the charger was sparkling clean and dry, no grease to be seen, is there anyway to re apply grease/ lubricant short of splitting the charger and recoating it all manually? a spray perhaps? :?:

there is a control unit in behind the right hand side rear quarter trim beside the right rear passenger seat, open the drivers door right open and try the switch, the widows should still go up and down, if they do, put the car in reverse with the ignition on and see if the reversing lights are lit, if they arent, one of the fuses has blown (think its no 14 or 15, cant remember off hand) mine has been doing this for a while blowing the fuses occasionally, think it could be a fault with the reverse light switch on the gearbox, the reversing lights, elec windows and elec mirrors are all controlled off of the same fuse, hope this helps, there are a few threads on here on elec windows so may be worth you doing a search,,,,

pretty sure the answer is no, dont see Cats on most peoples 20V conversions,,,,

alternatively you can buy those links from gsf for about 9 pounds if i remember correctly complete

cheers :D