olly elworthy

vw id expect at extortionate price!!

need custom cam belt pulley made up for the intermidiate shaft, some waterways need welding up,, allot more to this conversion than meets the eye, you will need to make up allot of custom stuff,, think volks speed did one although i dont think they are trading anymore,, 16V would be much simpler, you can buy an intergration kit from bahnbrenner.com

pm sent p.s. the start of your turbo leaking may be due to a blocked oil return pipe,,

said nut is here,, click on 7th column down and its part number 9 (threaded bush),, this what ya need to check is still tight,, http://http://www.elcats.ru/audivw/vag4.asp?gi ... 1992&fid=v]

they may have installed the mount using an air ratchet to screw the top plate on, this vibrates the strut around and loosens off the funny shaped nut below that seats the shock to the mount and bearings in the mount,, undo the 22mm nut on top of the mount take off the plate and check to see if the funny shaped nut/ shim is done up properly,, as with this loose it will rattle about allot,

yeap easy, just be carefull where all the pipes go, and make sure the engine is cold as when you undo the unions the fuel pressure retained in the fuel lines will spray a fine mist of fuel out for a short while,, suggest covering with a rag so it does not spray in your eyes,, also make sure you dont get any dirt in the metering heads!!

one of your runners has broken, you will need to carefully slide it back by inserting a screwdriverand helping it along whilst gently lowering the roof, then keep it shut until you decide to get the mech repaired :roll: watch the paint on your roof its easy to scratch it,,

depends how much power you want,, just dropping a vr6 in is not gonna help you that much, especially as most of the donor engines are such high mileage and these fragile units will require a rebiuld before fitting, sending your costs up,, easiest mod to start with on a 2 litre 16v is to get some KR cams in there from a 1.8,, and as you say a new exhaust, maybe even a 4 branch manifold too, spend the rest of your money on handling and other performance related modifications,,

we have one of these running on a DTA in a MK2 golf, it is extremley expensive and only the sort of thing you do when there is no other way to get more power from your car, everything else possible was done to the car before fitting these, they are like the icing on the cake (vv expensive icing at that) with the right mapping it makes for a really drivable and incredibly resposive engine, the full kit is getting on for about 3K time you have baought alll the other bits you need to go with it, fuel lines fpr etc, + the mapping,,

Koni have just revised all the kits they have changed the springs they arent Vogtland anymore and seem much better, they have rebranded all the kits and they are called 1134 kits or something like that,, the new springs seem really good, we are running them on one of our Mk1`s at the moment,, we got the kit from TSR really cheap, if you pester them they will come down on price a bit,, Venom motorsport are also very competitive, although DAVIDWORT`s prices dont seem too bad for shocks either,,,

some 16V information on gary`s site here http://www.gvk-motorsport.co.uk/

we have built a mk2 golf on throttle bodies on DTA management with shrick cams, 2ltr bottom end (9a) flowed head, 4 branch manifold and it puts oput 198bhp, (on a new engine) it has loads of torque from 3000 rpm and is awesome, another chap in the club has a mk2 golf gti 2ltr 16v on Kjet and that is 204 hp, again with shed loads of torque from low down, (all on stealths rollers set up by vince) the 2 ltr 16v is often an underestimated engine capebla of producing good power and torque, :D

my slave cylinder was creaking just before she gave up the ghost,,,

you can get 200hp out of a 2ltr 16v,,,

i expect it was speed related!! :wink: got a really good price on a full set of powerflex so may be tempted to try em,,

2 shocks (sachs advantage) 2 bumpstops, that should have you sorted for the rears, the bolts in the bottom of the shock to the axle can be troublesome and shear sometimes,, apart from that its easy,, give the aforementioned bolts a good soaking with penetrating oil a couple days before you embark on changing the shocks and it should be sweet!

just try another fuse and disconnect the looms off of the heated washer jets, gotta be worth a try surely,,

your yellow glow is prob more to do with the VW wiring than the actual bulbs,,, :D pm H100VW :D

get em out to et 25 with some 10mm spacers, (preferably ones which have a spigot extension on them)

this will be of use to you,,, http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11828&highlight=ignition+switch+stereo :D

ignition switch, mine mysteriously died when i changed my stereo, has happened to someone else on here too if i remeber correctly!,,

looky here http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=44&highlight=electric+windows+fuse+reversing+lights

check either fuse 14 or 15 cant remember which,, the windows will go up and down with the drivers door open wether the fuse has gone or not, the same fuse operates the reversing lights and the electric mirrors and the heated washer jets, mine kept blowing with the same problem until i unplugged the heated washer jets,,

ah thats where i was gopin wrong then, i was thinking of my old motocross bikes where we used ngk`s,,,, :) confusing that they dont use the same way round!!

sounds like its all under control!! be interesting to see what it puts out when all up and running with the cam timing spot on,,,