krnau

Hey, how hard is that? I've won off ebay an ignition barrel+key off ebay and I'd like to make this "new" key to open all locks. door handles aren't that hard, but.. what about removing boot lock from the car? I've never gone round to try it, I'd like to know if there are any tips I should consider. thanks

that's still pending to check. I have to buy a cam-cam chain and rocker cover + inlet manifold gaskets this week :D thanks for the comment!

UPDATE. -Replaced air filter -No oil leaks in dizzy cap -TIming belt's marks are OK -Idle sits at 1.000rpm and maybe 1.100 when rad fan is ON (it's for summer as A.C. made idle too low when on) -Overrun cutoff valve is OK -Throttle position switch is OK -There are NO air leaks. I've checked all vacuum pipes, intake boot, injector inserts, inlet manifold, throttle body, ISV air pipe, WUR air pipe, servo pipe..... everything -Dizzy rotor arm and cap look OK to me. However, when putting cap back into the dizzy, I've seen that it has some amount of play. Pic 1 shows what makes that play, and pics 2 & 3 show the play itself. Pic 4 shows the rotor arm. is it set OK? Pic 5. shows dizzy cap, does it look ok? -Flywheel marks are a)invisible b)not set up right. See pics. the tooth on the left had a white dot which can't be appreciated in my 0.3Mpx phone camera [LOL]. BTW this car is a corrado, so I imagine gearbox will not be the same as golf and so flywheel marks won't look like the same? (Crank and cam pulleys' marks were set OK when I took these pics) Still pending: -get CO checked -check fuel pressures with gauge -check plugs -replace fuel filter Actually checking: -coolant temperature senders (swapping wires) OMG that's taking my life...

right, I'll get it done. I'll blank overrun cutoff valve first just to see if it's permanently allowing un-metered air into the system. thanks!

yes I'll do it. I'll test system pressure first with a set of gauges. or should I get the CO checked first in order to discard any probs??

I'm thinking about deleting the overrun cutoff valve (just under the air intake boot) for one day to see if it's faulty (just in case it's sucking air from the airbox and bypassing the metering head flap....).... could there be any problems such as sucking too much air-through-metering-flap on idle, or something?

I use them as cigarette tray. You can put one cigarette in each slot :norty:

I already checked the airbox area. Air filter has about 15.000 miles on it ( :lol: ) but if it was the problem, it would have been running like crap before the crash... and it was running OK. the front end was not that bad. the crash was at about 20 or 25mph and I crashed into a stopped car (in a traffic jam). I only replaced the bumper and slam pannel. anything else was affected.

Hi, I had a crash the other day. The damaged parts were only front bumper and slam panel. After all of this has been replaced, the car feels like it has no power at all. There's no kick at 4.000rpm as it used to be, and nothing at all. It feels like a 90(ish) HP car... I've checked vacuum pipes today and all of them are OK... what else could have gone wrong? distributor rotor arm maybe? I'm really going mad!! thanks for reading :)

One day will come that it'll be more usual than we'd like to :( specially for those who (like me) want to keep the rado for life :(

did you try what volksworld said? Water may have leaked through tails corroding the circuit

I did not have to replace kr splash shields when I did this mod

fixed. it looks like its as easy as number 18 pushes against nr. 22 and it actuates on 28.

any1? :?

Hi, I'm finishing the repair of the crash I had the day before yesterday in which I totally destroyed the front end. I'm stuck at trying to guess the way I should grab the d/s bonnet lock (or whatever it's called LOL) to the bonnet cable. P/s one is obvious as it has a "thingy" that will move the "lock" when I pull the cable lever... but what about d/s one?? it's all the way in reverse of the p/s. my car is a LHD, so I think this applies a RHD car as everything is like a mirror. thanks!!! please help me, I use the rado as a daily (as the other car has a stripped engine LOL), and I have to park it with the bonnet only "locked" by the middle hook.... and also driving it like this.... if I hit a bump, the bonnet will self-lock and I'll be lost! edit number 22 in the pic: edit. I can't remember where those plastic "trumpets" go... can anyone shine a bit of light on it with a pic? thanks!!!

If you have replaced every brake-related bits, then it may be coming from elsewhere. It happened to me when my CV joint went out of grease. At first, it was only when driving for a +10 minute period and turning to right. a while after, it became undriveable due to the squeaking noise. re-greased and job done.

:?

how can I upload a video here? :help:

I used some silicone in order to fix the spoiler seals leak and it seems to be fixed now 8) thank you all!!

just to clarify, I have one switch per door, so that the passenger can lock/unlock the car if I'm not there as some petrol stations are becoming dangerous at night.... really dangerous :nono: that's why I always keep an iron bar next to me :norty:

yes, that's it. My C is an early one... I've seen people placing the central locking switch in the centre tunnel but personally, I don't like it

I've just done it to my car. All I did was use a power window switch and connect the 3 wires of the door handle in this switch. Trial & error will tell you which wire locks or unlocks. Here you are a pic

so today it rained a lot, and water is still getting in the boot. A small amount only, but still getting wet :censored: Spoiler isn't in the car now and both "holes" are sealed with duct tape :norty: where else could it be leaking from? to sum up, I've checked: -spoiiler seals (holes) -badges -tail lights

so you may be thinking about selling them, eh? :norty: :norty:

I'll let the underseal dry for a few days. I'm trying to achieve a lower diameter of the "hole" of the spoiler seals, as silicone didn't work for this :eek: oh, and number plate lights' panel is held by two bolts like these: :pukeright: so it may leak from there, too :( what an Idiot owned my car before me :bad-words: