mariojoshi

Because of how deeply seated they are under the manifold, the only way really is to pull on the lead, risking breaking the connection. Personally, I wouldn't. The tool actually grips onto the metal part of the socket, meaning you can't really damage it.

Stunning. :clap: Good job that man!

Thanks to: Daves16v - excellent service on two items. 3Corsameal - a pleasure to deal with. Zerocool - prompt delivery, again, excellent. B5VWC - Spent a fortune on parts from Bobby already, so so helpful and a top lad.

Two badges, different wheels, two exclusive storm only colours and sometimes a different colour leather (the green storms had cream leather)

What an absolute stunner! Almost a shame to mod that, looks like such a tidy example :luvlove:

And me please! Still £15? I'd like one. Pm me with details. Regards, Josh

This always seems to a question that no one really knows the answer to. We all use different methods I guess. personally, I've made some wooden blocks the fit in the seat of my axle stands. These have a groove cutout in the top for the sill to sit in. I'm not convinced that this is the best way to keep the front end in the air, but it certainly hasn't squashed the sill yet... ...oh, and I'm not dead due to car squishage...either.

Those surrounds are likely to be the same size I think. I think that with the heavy duty velcro (50mm wide) done on the plate horizontally AND vertically, it should be fine. We'll see I guess! Got some velcro from Halfords the other day, so I'll give it a shot.. can always post my results back here for ya ;) *edit* Now fitted with velcro - I'm certain that these things are NOT going to fall off in a hurry. Have to go get another meter to do the front plate though :eek: Before During After Much cleaner :luvlove: Yes, there is a small gap due to the thickness of the velcro, so they don't sit completely flush, but I'm happy enough with it. Easy.

I'm going from surrounds top velcro as it's a much cleaner look and lets the plate sit far more flush to the car. :clap:

Easy to fit, yes. You just have to disconnect the pipes (jubilees or spring clips usually) take the engine loom connector off the end and then prise it out of the rubber boot that it sits in. (And the reverse for re-fitting of course) Expensive... new.. yes. I can't remember how much, but I was almost sure it was something silly like £90

Any chance of the parts numbers? ;)

Absolutely spot on mate. The pipe that goes from the expansion/header tank to the thermostat and (some part) of the engine (with the T piece) is £90 alone too! I said that same.. if i'm going to have to pay that much, I'd rather get a bloody full set of samco! Nice work.

I believe mine is doing the same thing actually fella. My local mechanic said that the this is a common problem with VRs, the forum might be able to offer some insight into this aswell! When's she due for her next oil change? *i'm trying to get the diagram off vagcat to check out the arrangement of parts, but it doesn't seem to be working*

£21.61 from my stealer.. £11.75 from TPS!

Thanks guys. The car is over at my local spanner works at the moment. Explained the problem and what I thought it probably was based on having read a few things here and there... we'll see what they say after they pressure test it (just to make sure) *EDIT* It was a cracked thermostat housing. The garage are replacing the entire cooling section round there including the crack pipe etc. Although I'd love a gruvenparts crack pipe and associated bits, I don't think I could justify it all. Yes they will last forever, but I doubt I'll actually have the car for another 12 years (which is how long standard parts last..) Don't get me wrong, I love my C, but i think maybe some bits of expenditure are a little uneccessary and OTT?!

OK boss! Since I can't tell where the leak is.. I kinda just wanted some advice from experience.. so that's what you've given me! My local mechanic is going to have a look at it tomorrow morning to see if they can confirm. Luckily, they are the type that will tell me what it is and ask me if I want to fix it (and give me some advice as to how to go about it) or if i want them to fix it. :)

Certainly an interesting idea matey! Can't hurt to get more air in and around the airbox. Have you got it back on the car yet?

Surely that's unlikely to be the problem if it isn't leaking from the coolant bottle?! I've seen it dripping from where I think the thermostat housing and related pipes should be... but as previously mentioned, I can't actually see anything round there due to the various gubbins around/ on top of it!

Hey guys and gals! Before you ask, yes, I've done a search already and read various bits of info, but just wanted to get a bit of advice from your experiences. The story - Checked my coolant on saturday before doing about 150miles. On monday my Dad took the car out to take my sister to work (His volvo wasn't too healthy) On the way back the coolant light came on and started flashing. He managed to get it home (a couple of miles) without it overheating. Temps were up a little but not ridiculously so. So, he told me.. I wasn't too happy! Checked the coolant header bottle - nothing in it! :shock: A bit worrying. Let the car cool and then topped it up with water (no G12 to hand) I had a big journey to do the next day, so I took the car out in the morning. The level dropped a little i think.. but not very much, the car heated up fine, themostat and fans kicked in ok, all temps ok. I did the 200mile round trip taking it really easy, stopping at each service point to check levels. All was fine. I actually got 40MPG out of her! Got back, the next morning I had very little coolant again. I've also got a minor oil leak, so i was cleaning/degreasing the sump/oil filter etc to try and pinpoint it. Topped up the coolant bottle later in the day to find it leaking out (I'd noticed some wetness here before) somewhere that i think is near the thermostat housing and crack pipe? There's a plastic cover over the thing I want to look at.. so it's difficult to see! The odd thing is: when i put water in... it came back out until the coolant returns to a certain level in the bottle (lower than you'd normally want) If i put the cap back on the bottle.. that's the end of the matter. If i take the cap off again.. it starts leaking from the same place? Now.. unless i'm just a complete idiot and the coolant level indicator is NOT the big plastic moulding line on the bottle.. then it's overflowing from somwhere and it's meant to do that. However, that doesn't explain why it starts leaking again with the cap off the bottle, nor why it ran very low on coolant in the first place, so there must be a problem! Also - even though it has been topped up, the coolant light on the dash flashes 3 times on startup. Did it always do this? I've no idea! It goes out afterwards, that's for sure. Is it meant to do that?! Thanks for reading. If you've had similar symptoms and know that its defo the thermostat housing etc.. it'd be nice to get some advice. My main problem is not being able to see WHAT is leaking! Ta, Josh

Absolutely.. and to be fair, it makes sense! VRs generate SO much heat in the engine bay that an open filter would naturally cause a problem. Stick that filter inside a carbon box which "causes a vortexing effect" (if you believe that bit) and you're onto a winner! Very happy with my BMC also.

What stuff have you been using to soundproof your car cheesewire? a) Dynamat b) Second Skin c) None of the above...?!

Hey fella... I'm not actually sure how much good it will do (no expert) but i've been informed that Second Skin is much better and much cheaper?! It was the damplifier stuff listed on here.. http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/accessories-sound-deadening-c-73_72.html?cadid=2c1f3091099c414210d1257ab1e9c639 Having said that, I'm not sure on the weight of this and if it would have any effect on the roof :| I'd also be interested to see if anyone has actually done this!

ET15 would be due to the PCD Adapter. The real ET was 35 (+ 20mm adapter) so ET15 The clearance issues I was worried about (given the above information) were to do with the front arches really. Any ideas? :)

Guys! You've really given me a bit of peach of mind. I was a bit worried earlier! This is the first car I've had with the MFA setup, so it didn't click. JMC - you sir, are a legend! What a clever idea!

Well guys and gals.. Like most of my posts.. it does exactly what it says on the tin. I've found a random connector hanging down on the drivers side of my engine bay.. just below my chin spoiler. It's blue.. (usually meant temp related on my old polos) with a grey attachment... (which is not a bulb holder) The loom for it goes back up into the bay, round the drivers wing and into the large metal cylinder in the centre of the bay on the bulkhead at the back (I think) What in name of all things VW is it? I can't find anything around it that it could possibly plug into! Sorry it's not the most informative pic in the world.. awkward position. The grey attachment defo has two metal connectors inside it so I guess it's not just a blank. It has a central plastic prong on the inside on the other end, so I assume it's not actually an electrical connection there.. but maybe a sensor?! HELP! Many thanks! Josh