Dox

It’s also time consuming too and fro from the post office as well as wrapping

I decided to sell some stuff as I’m not working atm, it’s quite addictive 😆 there’s some stuff I won’t sell until my car has gone if it’s small / light enough to get in the garage loft. don’t want to be paying Chinnor tax should I have a mishap…..

It makes life difficult pricing your stuff as personally I don't want to sell to a reseller (I call it Chinnor tax).

I believe people have used Passat parts in the past.

The book was written by stripping a new car, with OE spec parts and might need some interpretation using what we have now (I think so).

Your rear stub axles will be oval by now. Jack the rear wheels up, handbrake off. Hold the wheels at 3 and 9 o'clock, with new bearings there should be some play (if not the bearings will squeegee the grease away and you have metal on metal and premature failure), swap to 12 and 6 o'clock, if there's more play this is an indication of oval stub axles. Most testers are too young to have experienced taper bearings and compare them to cassette bearings on modern cars and fail / advise is the norm.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284168505398?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=RnFV2d8IQli&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=SPgov0z1SyG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY is this the tool?

If stored indoors and pulling outside to work on the car, beware the headlining falling in. One day in the sun after 7 years inside and the liner collapsed covering cream leather with orange sticky snot! it gets everywhere

The 30+ year old capacitors would be on my radar as they fail with age - check for signs of expansion? You could try and desolder them to see if features return (before replacing them?) - note the orientation before removal +/-. The voltage regulator is mainly for fuel and temperature gauges, if you didn't have it the readings would differ engine off / engine running due to higher alternator voltage. Road speed is calculated by the final drive in the gearbox, RPMs from the hall sensors in the distributer (so neither affected by voltage surge).

Have you checked this?

You have 2 separate issues, both dash related - the engine runs so the hall sensor in the dizzy is obviously working? It appears you have a wiring or binnacle issue if as suggested the 2 faults occurred at the same time? If you short the 2 pins in the plug that will effectively prove disprove the expansion tank issue?

Hi, you need to be a paid subscriber to use the whole of the forum these days. I've never owned a G60, but have owned a MK2 Golf 8 valve and I'm sure the dash had an earth point on the engine cam cover or cylinderhead? Should that be the case check for fracture, security and corrosion. Next I'd remove the dash binnacle and inspect the plugs / wiring etc

Any car that has no interest is too expensive. Any car that has many viewing and no buyers has an issue with condition vs price. the buyer always dictates the selling price glws

In the boot around the spare wheel?

It helps me, never heard of them 😆 👍

https://www.mk1autohaus.com/ https://www.mk1autohaus.com/ you missed the O out, auto haus

No problem.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/313996012375

Low idle speed, too larger pulley on the alternator (lower rotational speed) will both cause the alternator to not charge until revved. AS will a failing alternator - remove the brush pack and check the ends of the bushes for length - check they move easily against there springs - soot on the end of the brush is a sure sign of arcing. Resistance causes voltage drop, testing for voltage drop is more meaningful than resistance (unless you do this day in, day out). Meter to DC Volts Start the car and rev it. The source of power is the alternator, positive lead to the alternator cable tag, negative to the alternator casing - note the result. Move the negative to the earth point of the battery, note the result and compare, any loss is the voltage drop due to resistance in the circuit (alternator body - alternator bracket - engine block - gearbox bell housing - bolt / nut to earth tag on the earth lead - the lead itself - battery connection). If you just want to search for the loss, place the positive lead on the alternator body, the negative to the earth connection on the battery - this is potential (voltage) difference in the circuit

Nope, 12v (actually 9 or 10V via a the clusters built in voltage regulator) to one side of the gauge, negative via the variable sensor on the block.

Oil temp for sure earths on the block (single wire sensor). I'd put money on it the coolant temp does too (eyelet to the block?). Make sure the main engine earth is in good condition - broken / corroded / loose will mean heavy starter current turning over the engine will try and earth via any wiring connected to the block instead

It would be worth adding your location, we're all hoarders and would be tempted if local to you.

I've no idea mate

What does it look like? I've not sold it so must have it somewhere....

I think I have late door looms somewhere.....