
Dox
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Everything posted by Dox
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The car has been off the road for 6 years, so priority should be recommissioning. I’ll probably sell it next year, old age / arthritis means low cars with big doors make life awkward on car parks etc i sold my tt last year for this very reason. I bought a caddy maxi yesterday, so vehicle total back up to 4
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I'm in two minds whether to sell mine, I've had it 6+ years and its still on the shelf. My plan was to build a spare engine and box to leave the original intact, so I've amassed the Schrick, a spare ABV, Wiseco 3L pistons, a VR6 box and a spare Golf MK3 16V box for the diff. 17" BBS RS, not even been off the shelf since I bought them nearly 10 years ago I've driven 1K miles to collect this stuff - it's a disease lol
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Just send it to stealth for immobiliser removal?
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They weren't that accurate anyway, a modified car wouldn't achieve the readout anyway? It's more important that it works than real world accuracy these days? Good pension fund going forward lol
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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USA gallon is different to UK?
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U/Js can dry out if the heat shield / rubber cover is missing due to drying out / water ingress. I suppose the bushes bearings can fail. Are you sure the track rod ends are the right orientation, I'm sure they can bind on the knuckles if transposed? Watch the tensioner when turning right / left for excess movement / jumping
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Make sure the struts turn with weight on the ground. Disconnect the track rod ends from the knuckles, place a magazine under the tyres, drop the car down and check for tight spots both sides by turning the wheels with your hands lock left and right. this will ensure the struts are free to move narrowing it down to rack, pipe work or pump hth
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Id suggest warming them in boiling water, drying the socket and squeezing them on with pump pliers with the roller already inside the channel. All Corrado plastics should be warm(ed with a hairdryer) before removal
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I replaced mine on the drivers door, one was destroyed (rear?) the other I posted to a member here for reuse. PM your address and I'll get it posted to you.
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I found a used one yesterday if it’s any good to you?
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What 80's - 90s cars for sale have caught your eye recently.
Dox replied to Keyo's topic in General Car Chat
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275684167392?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338817149&toolid=10050&customid=DANSWORKAROUND2&ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-53481-19255-0%2F1 -
MK1 TT rear axles are horrific compared to that
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Worn roller cause the window to rattle - especially when closing the door window part way down. Passenger side won't be as worn, you could switch them around
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https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2101643966690647/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A27b56f90-e5ab-47aa-a8b9-b6ec31fc7f02
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Google 17748 / 17755 (cam / crank correlation codes) chain stretch maybe, maybe crank / cam sensors, sprockets, VVT actuators, oil passage restrictions, loom, ECU, chain jump. The upper chain was replaced on some due to recall (in practice only when the visited VW for service) as Sachs stamped their name too heavily into the chain links causing weak spots and eventually snapping. Give me a donkey / boat anchor VR6 anyway over one of these
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MK3s, MK4s, MK5s ...... Have the noise dampening foam rotting out the wings inside out, as soon as you see a blister they're holed, I've not had a MK4 with a kit, but they've all rotted in the same place and again its inside to outside.
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Same as corrado for rust, front wings, rear of the sills / inner arch at the bottom. You’d think they’d learn 😂
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Not so much for Keyo (who could find this thread with ease), this thread is a good read for any recent Corrado buyer wanting info on upgrades - atmo - supercharged - turbocharged - R32 powered
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Kevin Bacon had an R32 and moved to a MK5 TFSI, have a look at his thread. I've owned MK4s for 20 years and I'm the only one who doesn't like the R32 bumpers......
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Im glad to see you've made some progress re RPMs. Personally I'd remove the pump relay and test it. I'd also see if the power getting to the fusebox and if its maintained on cranking engine started the engine and the key position returns to the usual run position (I'm sure the ecu provides the earth to the relay, so you need to check for earth too). Can't find much, but found this video on youtube 2 mins in
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RPMs on tachometer yet? no crank position to ecu and the pump won’t run beyond priming
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No, you need enough flow to meet the consumption of the engine factoring in any restriction - FPR controls the pressure and in this case is the restriction. 1 uk gallon is 4.5 litres If at 120 mph (2 miles per minute) the car does 4.5 MPG (I’ve no idea what mpg a Corrado does at this speed, it’s just a convenient number for mental arithmetic) it will need a minimum supply of 2 litres per minute to prevent starvation, so the pump needs to overcome the 4 bar FPR the the ecu is calibrated for (excess returns to the tank) and still deliver over of 2 litres to satisfy the engines needs.
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This looks to have a good flow rate of 100L per hour and rated at 4 bar Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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It’s a jungle out there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk