Dox

Not SORN No MOT since online records began Same owner since 1998 Not exported Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good news. pop in for a coffee if you’re ever over this way with it

You need to be a paid member to post in most areas of the forum.

As far as I’m aware, the light housings are the same, the lenses and surrounds changed for the late models

5W-40 is just thinner from cold, running viscosity (40) will be the same?

I’m in no way connected with the above, but have used them a few times to coat wheels 16” are £35 per rim blast and coat silver with a top coat of lacquer. Note, any kerbing / scratches will remain (this isn’t a wheel refurb!), so I spent an hour or so myself sanding off kerb rash before I took them in Before (as taken in, it wasn’t worth cleaning them prior- they’re as bad as you can get - rattle can on top of brake dust!). They blast anything, I had our front railings done black at the same time, dropped off a week ago, collected today Previously recommended by C5OEM (long OCD storm owner). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Forum rule should be deals done in open sight on the board, not by PMs PMs only once the deal is sealed for payment and address details etc Then if spotted Toby can take action

https://jamboards.com/threads/jamboards-wtb-scams.13875/page-4

New thread needed for all to see who's PMing to scam?

I had an Audi a2 sport and ordered individual eibach standard springs of AUTODOC, they messaged to say I’d picked the wrong ones. Spot on when the ones they chose arrived. Does take a while for some things to be arrive

If you used PayPal f&f you can stil claim off the source you paid PayPal with (credit or debit card). it usually takes a while, but you will eventually get your money back. if you do similar again ask for pics of the items with a piece of paper with the sellers name and date on - at least that shows they own the items?

Springs? how did you pay?

I'm assuming MooG60 has a G60, not sure if they ever had 16 pin? I have ancient VAGCOM on ancient laptop. James used this to connect to his Campaign 2 x 2 successfully? I also have current VCDS - never used it with 2 x 2 And VAS1551 clunky lol, bought for nostalgia rather than function

Are you 2 x 2 or 16 pin?

So you're in Nottingham? You could try C and R enterprises? I have an ancient laptop that has a very early VGAGOM program on,(inc 2 x 2 adaptor) James off the forum used it to trouble shoot his ABS

0.6 and 0.38 volts you mean? either way there’s a large discrepancy side to side, but at least it shows the reluctor rings are being picked up by the sensors? It could just be you’re better at turning wheels faster on one side than the other? You really need to see all 4 sensor readings on a gentle drive to see which corner isn’t reading correctly id imagine tempest still has his vcds set up if you contact him he may still be local?

The sensors are like tiny alternators, if you spin the wheel with the multimeter connected to the two pins in the sensor (wiring disconnected) set to volts you should see small voltages displayed. this proves the sensors are being flagged by the reluctor rings

The system works by comparing wheel speeds - all 4 corners at the same time. Measure resistance of the sensor, they should all be more or less the same If you spin the wheels with a multimeter connected to the unplugged sensors you should get a small voltage reading. Will VCDS not connect?

Does the engine turn with a socket on the crank?

Disconnect the battery for a while before you restart from cold. clear codes with vcds use the car for a couple of days before tinkering. ignition off if you disconnect anything, otherwise ghost codes will send you down dead ends / cloud the process.

If you swap a sensor you need to disconnect / reconnect the battery and drive the car several times to enable the ecu to relearn the new sensors parameters. Is the throttle damper catching the throttle and closing it gently? Are you reading the issue causing the stall or the ecus attempts at preventing a stall?

I use this https://www.glenmarch.com/cars/results# https://www.glenmarch.com/cars/results?make=384&model=2664&auction_house_id=&auction_location=&year_start=&year_end=&low_price=&high_price=&auction_id=&fromDate=&toDate=&keywords=&only_online=0&show_unsold_cars=0&show_unsold_cars=1

Lambda is ignored until engine hits a certain temp, hence swapping the CTS has lead to improved idle at low temp - original reading high?

Sounds like popping in the exhaust? ie unburnt fuel and oxygen? I'd pull ignition leads off with the engine running looking for the one that has least effect on the idle and investigate that cylinder, plug / lead / coil / compression

You should be able to view engine temp with vcds? Fluctuations would point to wiring / sensor faults lambda plug is on the rear engine mount you don’t mention whether issues hot / cold or both?