Dox

No, around £90 from Gas n Gears of fb

Bought 8 years ago from a forum member and been on a shelf ever since. I’m never going to use them. Given a quick wash, all look perfectly round, we’re resprayed shortly before I bought them 7/8 out of 10 condition wise Collection Crewe Cheshire 10 mins J16 M6 £600 What you see is what you get, 3 polished centres, 4 freshly painted. Forgot the pic [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Currently listed with a plate Co returning me £4K Offers around £2.5k https://www.swiftreg.co.uk/private-number-plate/VRG30S Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JOB LOT! New boxed Wiseco 83mm pistons ABV Tall block (bottom end and head complete) turns over with a ratchet on the crank bolt, bought off a forum member here, stored by me for 7 years. VR6 gearbox from a car I bought with wrecked engine (should be good) Mk3 16v gearbox - bought as good for its diff (3.65) to go in my VR6 box Hot Golf (Gas n Gears) lightened flywheel 6KG from memory (10KG standard) 02J shift tower - from one of my own cars (known good on removal). Polo shifter, bought as good, should bolt straight to the transmission tunnel in a corrado. All the above was amassed to build an engine / box for my car, it’s never going to happen TBH Collection from Crewe Cheshire 10 mins J16 M6 £1200 (new price of the pistons) Ideal to build an engine / box whilst you still use your car, refit your original if you decide to sell the car on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t know, never been out of the box. Crasher used to sell them, maybe he could advise? moderate drop on 15s probably ok 16s smooth roads, limited mileage tolerable 17s and rutted and potholed roads you’ll take the bus lol

Bought from Awesome Gti and never been out of the box Collection Crewe Cheshire 10 mins j16 M6 £200 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, try and see if manipulation of the wiring causes the fault to occur. try the passenger door and rear hatch too. 30 year old wiring flexing 1Ks of times leading to obvious cracking of insulation and shorting and less obvious internal wire damage.

Open the drivers door, flip the lock mech around with a screwdriver (so the door is open, lock in closed position. Operate the c/l whilst pushing the concertina wiring protector between body and door to make / break a potential broken wire

Personally I wouldn’t buy it for the position you’re in now. do you have evidence of the damage prior to the repair? cat c, d, s or n?

Any broken wires inside the rubber concertina pipe between body and doors? Rear hatch? sometimes the break is only inside the insulation so needs a gentle pull to expose

Well done for perseverance, I think I'd have given up after 2 refusals personally. Make sure the battery / chassis / engine earth is perfect as that's known to divert heavy cranking current through ecu via sensor earths frying ECUs when missing, broken or high resistance.

I've just driven on the M6, lorries shedding huge pieces of frozen snow off their trailers......

In the UK we call that the barrel and key. The switch fits on the rear of the barrel and has electrical connections. I'm sure you can order a key using the chassis number?

You mean barrel? Does the car have a factory immobiliser fitted?

I believe Audi E-tron headlights are £4K each

My brother loves his TT MK2 V6 manual, 10+ years now, but he lives less than a mile from work - he's 70 this year. The guy states no MOT, not failed MOT, he's probably had a good look and scared himself and allowed more issues being stood all winter. MK1 or MK2, I think avoiding eBay auctions and viewing prior to "winning" is the way to go?

Well over £1k, every bolt would need replacing. Mine looked grotty, but never got advisories the guy never mentioned the December 2022 fail in the listing?

Failed almost every mot from its first, I know if I’d started renewing rear arms etc I’d end up doing a full rebuild. There’s a few groups on fb, I’d recommend looking there, if you click in the posters name you can see their history in that group. I’d research paint colours and try and find a rare one, Merlin purple is similar to blackberry. I’ve never bought a good car off eBay Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use the Vehicle Smart app to view MOT history etc. My car never had rear seat passengers, seats were always folded down TBH - it's surprising what will fit inside the rear. My Mrs is 5'2" and struggled in the rear on my brothers MK2 V6 (never tried the MK1, didn't need too) - if someone climbs in the back with the boot open you need to be careful when closing it. It was very rare I was ever 2 up as my car was mainly used for commuting. Being VAG and 20+ years old many parts are being discontinued. My 1.8t used 3/4 litre of oil per 1000 miles - exhaust was clean, 20 valve seals most likely the culprit here. The previous owner of mine was very vocal about me using revs prior to the engine being up to temp (doesn't take long in these cars) and is probably why mine was so reliable for 4 years

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Your best bet is to try one. I'd be looking for an enthusiast owned car, fully rebuilt rear suspension with rust preventative measures (rear arms snap due to rot and the ball joints partial seizure - looks alarming but usually you can pull up to a stop and call recovery).. Sills are bolt on, but rust can get hold between the sills and body due to road grime sanding away paint - you'll be very luck to find rust free covers. 2 years ago cover were £200 per side + VAT, paint and fitting (front bumper and wings off, so labour intensive). Like all VAG cars front wings are a service item due to the water soaked sponge at 12 o'clock on the arch - if you see rust they're holed as they rust inside out. Boost leaks, the DV is often the culprit, new OE is now recommended rather than blingy alloy boy racer item unless big power. Con rods only good for upto 300 BHP / 300 F/lbs on 1.8ts being the max safe limit. Test the haled with a launch, wheel spins will prove it's not functioning as it should, there's an earth strap between diff and body that rots, cheap fix, other faults are not. Good news is they don't drive like the MK4 Golf they're based on (many Golf owners upgrade to the TT knuckles for improved geometry and better clearance of ARB and driveshafts). People who modded them highly are finding their investment doesn't pan out when it comes to resale and some of the best cars get broken (sound familiar?).

Rear seats little better than a parcel shelf, I used to travel with 4 adults in my corrado, no chance in a tt

Mk1 BAM 1.8t, very reliable tbh. fromt wings, sill covers and rear axle components rust like a well used skip. id like another, but old bones nag me not to buy another

The car has been off the road for 6 years, so priority should be recommissioning. I’ll probably sell it next year, old age / arthritis means low cars with big doors make life awkward on car parks etc i sold my tt last year for this very reason. I bought a caddy maxi yesterday, so vehicle total back up to 4

I'm in two minds whether to sell mine, I've had it 6+ years and its still on the shelf. My plan was to build a spare engine and box to leave the original intact, so I've amassed the Schrick, a spare ABV, Wiseco 3L pistons, a VR6 box and a spare Golf MK3 16V box for the diff. 17" BBS RS, not even been off the shelf since I bought them nearly 10 years ago I've driven 1K miles to collect this stuff - it's a disease lol