Wullie

You could try greasing the cable. I use the following method for bowden style cables. Get one of those little hard water balloons that the kids soak each other with and fill it with grease so that it full but not under pressure, if you follow me. Unclip the cable from the throttle body and slip the balloon over the end and secure it tightly with a cable tie or tape. Now GENTLY squeeze the balloon to force the grease into the cable. You will be able to feel the nipple on the end of the cable through the balloon and work it back and forth to help work the grease though the cable.

That sounds very similar to mine when the Crank bolt loosened and allowed the crank pulley to move out of alignment. A quick check is to compare the positions of the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and the flywheel. If all is OK they should line up. You may notice the crank pulley wobbling when the engine is running if the bolt has loosened.

Hmm, but will you look back at every time you leave it, will you glance in the mirror approaching 50 mph, will you miss the lights changing because you are admiring its reflection in a shop window. What is it about Corrado's? Give it a few months and you'll be looking at the classifieds.

You heartless bas**rd. My little C will be 21 on the 4th January 2012 and I've already started making arrangements for her birthday party. All the cars in the street will be invited and celebrations will continue into the night.

Or you could simply swap the old barrel into the new one, assuming you still have the old one.

On mine the metal bar that the handle attaches to broke where the screw go through it. I currently have a pair of mini mole grips permanently attached. Quite fetching in chrome actually. Note to self, must fix it properly some day.

Must buy one, I just stuck in a red one when mine blew.

There is an in line bleed nipple for the KR clutch on the bulkhead just after the reservoir which removes air from what is a high point in the line. In your position I would whip off the slave cylinder and have someone "GENTLY" operate the clutch while you watch what happens at the slave end while holding the push rod back. If the slave cylinder doesn't react then the problem is either a lot of air in the system or the master cylinder is faulty. The system generates a lot of force so keep a lot of pressure on the push rod to prevent the piston being pushed out of the slave cylinder.

Here is the panel off and separated. The white section clips into the panel using the two prongs at the end, the black outer section fits onto this with the clips in the centre. The LED just slides into place in the white section and is held in place by the black section. The main beam warning light has a smaller white "Head" on it which fits inside the blue filter cover shown by itself, this just pushes into the black section. Apparently at the time they couldn't make bright enough blue light so they used a white one with a blue filter One thing to note is that there is a deliberate kink in one of the LED legs. This is to ensure correct polarity when ffitting so make a note of which leg has the kink when you remove the old one. [ATTACH=CONFIG]49756[/ATTACH] Out of curiosity how much do VW charge for the replacement?

This might help, the wiki has loads of stuff just sitting there being ignored. http://direct.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?46064-How-to-change-blub-in-instrumental-panel ---------- Post added at 05:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:18 PM ---------- This might help, the wiki has loads of stuff just sitting there being ignored. http://direct.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?46064-How-to-change-blub-in-instrumental-panel ---------- Post added at 05:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:20 PM ----------

Plus he has a lot of pennies to spend, and the facilities to do the job. I think the results speak for themselves. One brilliant restoration plus.

Well, perhaps this evening events will answer some of the questions posed in this thread. I have just been dropped off by a taxi driver who offered me £1200 for my car. It's worth nowhere near that. I turned him down.

Won't be able to make it. I'm working. Sigh!

Mine is a daily and has been for the last 12 years. I tend not too look on it as a hobby or a project or whatever but maintain it in good running order as best I can given my current financial restrictions. Body work could do with a bit of work and I hope to get into that next year as I retire in in 72 days (not that I'm counting), and should have more time available. I think it has more than paid for itself and if I ever decide not to drive it I will probably give it away to someone who I know will look after it as I did with the Scirocco Scala that preceded it. I'm not a great one for adding up costs but the highest bill I've had for an MOT was just over £200. As I do 95% of the work myself repair costs are minimised. Balance that against the cost of purchasing another car, possibly incurring monthly repayments and the high cost of repairs and parts for more modern cars with all the electronics that go with them now. Now I come to think of it, looked at in that way the Corrado is actually a pretty cheap option.

Good starting place for the MFA bulbs here http://direct.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?46064-How-to-change-blub-in-instrumental-panel

Check the hoses around the airbox, There is one underneath the lardge plastic pipe that goes to the TB. About 1" in diameter and 1 1/2 long. This came off on mine after I'd done some work and gave the exact same symptoms.

Do They Know It's Christmas? - Band Aid

Aha, strange you should mention this. I changed the front caliperss on mine and was having the same problem until after a routine poke around I adjusted loose rear wheel bearings. Good call there.

That is almost poetic.

In the 12 years and 130k miles I have owned mine it only stopped at the side of the road once due to oil in the dizzy. Cleaned it with some WD40 and paper towel and carried on. Replaced the dizzy as it had just worn out the seals. The only other major problem was the crank bolt which was diagnosed before any damage was done. Sure it has it's niggles but never stopp it going ones. Other than that it's been reliable and a daily driver. Just look around and see how many cars of a similar vintage are still going. I've probably just doomed myself. I'll need to out and give it some petrol and kind words.

Aha, I appear to have been misled. I was led to believe that it was a connection used during manufacture for checking the operation of the ignition module. Glad to be proven wrong before I plugged anything into it.

In all fairness there is a connector under the gear lever cover which connects to the Ignition module cum ECU and tells you nothing, so there would be no errors but as Mikkijayne says its a pretty dismal mistake to make. So get ye to staring at hoses and sooking on vacuum pipes. PS Injector seals from VW, Eurocarparts or GSF, pennies. Mikkijayne, what's occurring with the V8??

Check all the hoses on the induction side for vacuum leak. The concertina type elbow that connects to the throttle body is a good suspect as it tends to split at the bottom of the folds. If it's not that work your way round the other pipes and vacuum hoses. The dirt etc. on the fuel distributor will not be helping. I cleaned mine out with WD40 and a fine bristled paintbrush. Be gentle and don't unscrew or bend anything. You can get to the underside by lifting off the top of the airbox and all will be exposed on the underside. I would leave the ignition module oat of the equation until you have tried the above first.

I'm still tied up most of October with the Mental Health stuff as well as work but will try to get to any date that comes up. PS Tied up metaphorically, not in a stratjacket.

If you have no joy drop me a PM with your address and I'll post one over to you.