Wullie
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Everything posted by Wullie
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Fascinated by the quote in one of the links, "Fortunately, the car, which can accelerate from 0 to 62mph in 5.7 seconds, was insured." Suggests lunatic cops speeding about in uninsured vehicles.
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With the corrado almost 25 years old free tax would be nice?
Wullie replied to elliott's topic in General Car Chat
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Essential accessories required when taking a Corrado out of the drive.
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Very moody, Like it.
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If |I can do it anyone who has been taken into Halfords and told "Look, that's a spanner" can do it
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I got mine from VW about ten years ago.
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The thread on the sensor is not parallel but reduced very slightly toward the tip. It is not really noticeable. Because of this you do not have to tighten it to the shoulder as you would do with a parallel thread.
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That is absolutely incredible.
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Found this a while ago which may help, originally written by Fishwick I believe. As Yandards says the best way is to use an exhaust analyser. This problem gets asked about 'quite a bit' on the forums - It applies to the mk2 Golf/Jetta 16v with KR engine. "My mk2 16v cuts out at junctions and idles terribly, I'm at my wit's end" Ok, there are somethings you can check yourself at home. If the ISV is working ,turn ignition on pos2 valve should *buzz*, Make sure it isn't cogged up with oil deposits-either replace it or flush out with carb cleaner.. remove the brass air bleed screw and clean it also. If all that fails ......... Try cleaning out the inlet tracts of oil and the airflow flap. If the engine isn't hunting when cold or hot, the CO is correct. 16Vs run best at 2.0 % CO. To achieve 2.0%, disconnect the famous "red lead" spade connector behind the coil (see fig:1 below) (after the engine is at temp), pull off the breather hose and block the airbox hole. Start the engine and the revs should plummet, if they don't, the idle valve is shagged and you're idling off the bypass screw alone. Now, with the engine running, turn the idle screw (fig: 3) up until you get 950rpm +-50. If the idle wanders or is lumpy (engine visibly rocking), insert your LONG 3mm allen key into the CO screw (fig :2) and turn it anti clock to weaken. Just prior to the engine cutting out, turn the key clockwise in 1/8th turn increments until the idle smooths out. Eventually, the engine should settle to a nice, steady idle. This will be 2.0% or very close to. Switch off and reconnect everything. Take it out for a run and when you dip the clutch, the tacho needle should gently fall to 1000rpm, not plummet. If after all that it's still missing and rough, investigate air leaks around the inlet manifold and the various vacumn hoses. If you ever need to find the controller for the ISV it's the black box with 'VDO' marked on it that's clipped to the back of the ashtray or (if someones been fiddling), shoved behind the dash in a random fashion! If you're really unlucky and the above instructions don't sort out your particular idling issue,check that the three senders on the end of the head, under the distributor are working, 2 of these control the ISV and the other is the temperature gauge sender - the senders are all the same so as long as your temperature gauge works, you can swap the wires to make sure all 3 senders actually make the temp gauge register, obviously if one doesn't work, there's your faulty sensor. WARNING -The sensors are about £20 from VAG so be careful whilst tightening them, they are tapered thread which means in simple terms that you don't wind them in all the way! Thanks to Kevin Hayward for the original version of this posted on the Club GTI mailing list, many moons ago and GVK who's website I pinched this particular version of the info from [ATTACH=CONFIG]51205[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]51212[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]51213[/ATTACH]
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Apologies Portent, was a bit rude. I blame the alcohol. Wullie
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Can't remember off the top of my head, but I think they're under £15. New ones may have a flat top that the connector slides onto rather than the prong type in your pics. The three of them are the same. ---------- Post added at 04:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:26 PM ---------- Can't remember off the top of my head, but I think they're under £15. New ones may have a flat top that the connector slides onto rather than the prong type in your pics. The three of them are the same.
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No, a single wire. There are three sensors on the side of the head there, all the same. One for the temp gauge, one for the idle control unit and one for the ECU. The two wire connector in pic 2 is for the WUR. Looking at pic 2. If you follow the red wire down about halfway you can see the lower sensor behind it with what looks like a green wire with black connector. Now look at the red wired sensor again. Over to the right just on the edge of the pic you can see the other sensor, looks like a brass nut. It looks as if the connector has broken off, which is incredibly similar to the wire shown in pic 3. There is also an oil temp sensor on the back corner of the head with a similar connection to these which may be worth a look. The red wire in pic 1 looks a bit dodgy with the snaplock connector and would benefit from a bit of solder or replacement.
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More WD40. Getting boring.
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No point in answering then and hypothetically I haven't a clue. But then I've been on free red wine most of tonight.
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Pic 2 should be there, it's one of the sensors, I think temperature gauge, Ithe loose terminal in pic 3 has broken away from the sensor on the right of pic 2 by the looks of things. May be totally wrong of course. Last is id a spare connection and just sits there annoying people.
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Probably not to everyone's taste, but I was performing at a Words and Music event tonight and a couple of young guys sang this using a guitar and harmonica as accompaniment There was complete silence from start to finish.
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Glad to hear you're OK. Sounds like something from those police chase things on the telly, only you were the star!
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It doesn't yet affect cars, vehicles affected are listed, roughly, here http://www.tfl.gov.uk/roadusers/lez/17700.aspx If you think you may be affected you can check your vehicle by reg no here https://lowemissionzone.tfl.gov.uk/b/pb/lezComplianceProvideVRM.faces Outside or on the M25 you are OK but inside the M25 you gotta cough up. They must have been dropping revenue from it as they recently changed the requirement to a higher specification to make more vehicles eligible to pay. I'm just wondering how long it will take Glasgow and Edinburgh to catch on!
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Well yesterday really, continued the WD40 spray routine on bumper/wing bolts. Started to try and track down the battery drain that's something too do with the windows/central locking. Had to keep stopping every 15 - 20 mins as I kept losing feeling in my fingers, got a slight problem with Renauds phenomenon. Did about four sessions and stopped before I got violent. This morning, first dose of WD40 and I'm now having coffee, debating whether to do more battery drain poking around.
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Already got the full kit, expansion set the lot. Funny thing I never had until I bought the Corrado. Perhaps the guy who invented Irwins was a Corrado owner.
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I jumped on my son's mountain bike to go to the garage after reading on here about KIPVR's, I think, exploits. spent a week in agony with a pulled muscle. That bike look's lethal.
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Started spraying WD40 on every nut, bolt and screw I could find relating to wings and front bumper. m Start of a twice daily procedure in preparation for next weekends tear down.
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Bit of a rant I suppose. Went on a Corrado bit collection trip the other day and met with a couple of surprises as it’s been a while since I’ve been allowed out. The motorway service centres we stopped at now have a two hour max free parking limit. If you want to stay longer you have to make a phone call and pay £10. Penalty for not paying - £80. The system is regulated by number plate recognition cameras which record your arrival and departure. Seems a bit cynical to me. We only really stopped for comfort breaks but if you stopped for a meal and a browse two hours isn’t long. Worst bit was the London emissions charge which we’d never even heard of. First we knew of it was on the A4 going into London while in the outside lane. Sign said we entering an emission zone, cue a WTF is that moment. Asked about it and couldn’t find out much. Leaving London came across the same sign while crawling in traffic so pulled out the laptop and looked it up, did a vehicle reg check and voila a £100 pound charge for taking a campervan to London. If we hadn’t realised, or thought it was for heavy lorries or such it would have been a £1000 fine. How do the inhabitants live down there what with congestion and now emissions charges. Next thing will be breathing charges for the slightly cleaner air.
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Just a guess as I'm not the best with electrics. It sounds as if a wire is shorting out to earth somewhere. As it is happening when you accelerate it suggests a wire is moving when you do it. Hard bit, finding which wire it is. I would start by clearing the area, i.e. move the airbox out of the way, then, with the headlights on give each wire exposed, especially headlight related a visual inspection followed by a good push, pull, wiggle and see if you can recreate the problem. Not especially the most technical way to go about it but may help.
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Set off lasst night just after 7 pm. Drove to Somerset for wing from trevyt on here for old style front wing and wing mounting brackets. Very quick chat then over to West London, thank God for sat navs, to meet with dragonfir3. Collected front bumper,, bumper iron indicators and as a bonus tinted rear lights. Arrived home tonight at 10 pm. 1182 miles in 27 hours. Somewhat tired so shower, malt whiskey and bed. Thanks also to my mate George for coming along for the ride and supplying his elderly Peugot camper van which didn't miss a beat. Just wished it was a bit faster.