Wullie

That's the crankshaft pulley and it shouldn't vibrate. It could be the crankshaft pulley bolt (the one in the centre) loosening which can lead to damage to the crank nose. You could also check that the four allen bolts are tight as they hold the pulley too the timing belt pulley behind the one in the picture. If I remember correctly there is also a rubber damping strip built into the pulley which may be deteriorating. Best thing to do is pull it off and carefully check everything. Have a look here http://direct.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?55045-Fate-tempted-and-it-retaliated&highlight=%2Bcrankshaft+%2Bpulley

I started having this problem after I marked all forums read. Turned skimlinks off and it worked as said. Turned them back on out of curiosity and it's still OK.

Vacuum pump for the central locking.

Lateral thought. Car does not comply with current regulations sir, so your insurance is void. Just a random thought as it were

Welcome to the forum. Car looks lovely

Tried IE8 and the avert thing is happening with that. ---------- Post added at 04:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:37 PM ---------- Just tried Firefox 6.0.2 and the advert thing happens on that. I'm using Windows XP Pro if that would be of any significance. ---------- Post added at 04:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:43 PM ---------- Just noticed something that may or may not help. The font size in IE8 and Firefox is larger by a couple of points than it is in Chrome.

I'm using Chrome here and everything looks fine.

Liking it, well done.

Have a read at this thread. http://direct.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?60675-help-with-some-funky-wiring-near-coil It's a temp sensor and cost in the region of £20.

Just felt jumping about on the bonnet and smashing the window,eventually, was a bit OTT

They're at it again http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-south-east-wales-16859875

Nah, too expensive for what parts you can get hold of. Always need attention as something else has gone wrong. Wait a minute, it's a different type of Corrado!!

Alex my son, I think you are starting to lose it. Whatever it is.

I’ve been using the following method of greasing Bowden style cables since I was a callow youth. Disconnect the cable. It’s better if you can remove the cable completely but you can still do it with one end attached. Get yourself a balloon and fill it with grease. The little hard water balloons that kids soak you with in summer are good. Slip the balloon over the nipple and inner cable and tape it tightly to the outer cable. Make sure the nipple is as far away from the outer cable as you can get it and GENTLY but firmly massage the balloon to force the grease between the inner and outer cables. Every now and again work the inner cable backward and forward inside the outer to help shift the grease along. When you get grease coming out the other end of the cable you’re done. Shouldn’t take long to do. Might not help your particular problem but it’s the best way I know of apart from a special cable greaser that I know.

I used a spare indicator bulb. Soldered a couple of wires to it, long enough to place the bulb in the car beside the fusebox. Any change in the light brightness was easily noticeable and gave a bit of light at the scene of operations as it were.

Quick way to check for battery drain is to disconnect the battery lead and then connect a test bulb between the lead and the battery terminal. If there is no abnormal drain the bulb will just about glow. Anything more and the bulb will glow brightly. Pull one fuse at a time till the bulb goes out and it will show you which circuit is causing the problem. Then comes the hard bit finding out just exactly where in the circuit the problem is. At least you can leave the fuse out to stop the drain.

I remember when all you had to buy were pencils and rubbers. I had to buy my grandson a laptop for school but got a deal for a refurbished one from a local independent PC shop. Paid £150 for a little Acer notebook that does the job admirably.

Freezing this morning, started up and switched on the blower. It's I don't want to play grumble completely gone. All four speeds working fine.

Still the original 21 year old one. Just the penny fix to support the spindle.

Had a little problem. Couple of days ago the heater blower stopped working on 4. (Early slider controls). Next it stopped completely after going over a bump, then started working again, then stoppeed. So I took the blower out, cleaned and tightened the connections and checked it. All worked fine so put the blower back in and, nothing. Poked and prodded, fan would run when out of the housing on all four speeds, put it back in and nothing. Took the round plastic bung out of the base of the motor to see if lubing it would help and noticed the spindle had worn a neat little groove in it so replaced the motor in the housing and switched it on. Nothing. Pushed up on the end of the motor spindle and away it went quite happily. Got a penny, smoothed one side, greased it an stuck it inside the plastic bung and replaced it. Blower now runs fine on all speeds. Weird but a cheap fix. Just need to see how long it lasts.

You've got one. You're infected. Welcome to Corradoitis

Try working through this as quoted above:- OK, I guess I'll start the ball rolling with this simple one, which I unfortunately learned about last summer. Not my words or photos but I couldn't find the two together. I'm not sure if you actually need to do the nut on the gearbox for the left and right travel as it does the back/forward travel...can someone clarify please as I didn't bother when I did it? Gear selection linkage adjustment If you are having trouble selecting certain gears it may be that the cables to the gearbox need adjustment. Tools needed: 13mm spanner Cup of tea (optional) Backward and forward travel This is adjusted on the gearbox selector. There are two cables. An upper and a lower. The lower one is fixed and the upper one is adjusted with a 13mm spanner. Left and right travel This is adjusted at the gearstick end under the gaiter. The object of the adjustment is to get the left, right, forward and backward planes all equal in travel. A common issue is when the lever has more travel to the left, which makes engaging 5th difficult, or has more travel to the right, making 1st and reverse difficult to engage. Make sense? 9 times out of 10, the backward and forward planes are OK, but to check, just make sure you can select all the gears to start with. If you can, it's the left / right planes that need adjusting. So.... 1) Pop the shift into neutral and slacken the aforementioned 13mm nut on the top cable on the gearbox. 2) Unscrew the gearknob by twisting anti-clockwise. Remove the gaiter and surround and look at the sprung mechanism in front of the OBD port. Flick the stick left to right to see it in action. Nice.... It has a 13mm nut on it and stiff spring, it's pretty easy to spot tbh. passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf2 nut.jpg[/attachment:26wh6vt8] Check you have this circlip also. lf it is missing then the lever will move to the left more than it moves the cable to the left as the plastic 'T' piece at the bottom of the lever will slip sideways on its metal pivot bar. This will result in trouble selecting first and/or second and/or reverse. climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf1. circlip.jpg[/attachment:26wh6vt8] 3) Hold the stick firmly and slacken the nut. (as the bishop said to the actress) 4) Now....this is the critical part.....you need to make sure the gear stick travel is the same in both directions (left and right). In other words, the 'daylight' gap between the moving parts should be equal at the limit of the stick's travel - on both sides. Pushing the stick right towards 5th 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf3 push right towards 5th.jpg[/attachment:26wh6vt8] Pushing the stick left towards 1st and 2nd 4 push left towards 1st2nd.jpg[/attachment:26wh6vt8] 5) When you're happy the left and right planes are equal in travel, retighten the nut on the gear stick then retighten the nut on the gearbox. Job done. Road test and enjoy! Photos by ProdigalSon Words by pianowire Edited by The_Dude Attached Thumbnails Attached Images 1. circlip.jpg‎ (64.4 KB, 908 views)

Someone at Aardman reads the forum. From their new film The Pirates [ATTACH=CONFIG]51257[/ATTACH]

Just to clarify, it is NOT the button on the end of the stalk you push, but the MFA selection slider on the face of the stalk. It should be marked 0 1 2 0. The first zero resets the MFA1 readings, the last zero the MFA2 readings.