Wild-Animal

Hey thanks for the reply, I have cleaned the ISV out numerous times and I have tested the voltage to it, and i the ISV does seem to work I can here it buzzing. Thermotime switch thanks for that bit of info! I have tried everything I could think of so I may try and pick one up second hand and see if it does the trick.

Hey I have been having problems with my 1.8 16 valve running properly during the warm up thase. The car idles drops to 200rpm when ever the throttle sits against the idle switch. I know the KR engine has 3 sensors below the distributor and I have tested all 3. I was wanting to find out what the brown plug, below the 3 sensors, what is it for ? and also the there is a sensor on the back of the block in the engine bay with a single wire. I am trying to know what they do so either I can test them to see if they are causing the problem Any info would be great, thanks

Okay I have got another cold start injector still the same results, I change the WUR for another same and again it never changed anything. Any ideas ? I checked all pipes for vacumn for leaks,found nothing, since it runs fine when its warm I would think the vacuum pipes are fine I have adjusted the throttle body but due to that I now think its back firing as I hear a popping noise from the back off the car when I down shift and its using a lot of fuel. I cant use the micro switch for the throttle as when it rest against the switch, it kills the revs warm or cold same results. When the car starts up the revs are fine for 10 secs then the revs drop to about 200rpm and continue like that until the car has properly warmed up. Then it sits fine at 1000 rpm which is fine. Does any one know what all the adjustments are for on the throttle body?

yeh it will have a part number, I don't know what it is unfortunately. If you are ordering from VW and don't know the part number then go into the parts department so you can point at on their screen, to make sure you get the right pipe. If you are going to the hastle of changing the pipe then, it would be worth giving the others a clean up and a paint. Depends on how far you want to go you could drop the housing and the brackets for fuel filter and fuel pump housing give then a clean up as well. as its a lot easier changing the fuel filter once the whole housing is down. Also the fuel pump housing has rubber bushes that get tired with age, its a lot easier doing these all at once than having to come back to them. If you change the fuel filter make sure you get new washers on either side of the filter ! they are a must I done all of this and wished I had done it all at once !

When you get a toque wrench, make sure when your not using it you have fully backed it off so its not sitting about being under load.

I know which line you mean, I got mine from the dealer it was £35. If you take all the pipes off in that area it would be worth cleaning them up and painting them and poppping them back on .

http://www.youtube.com/embed/oflneAdB0Do?hd=1

I cant remember what I put in mine but yeah it does make a difference, you might be ale to search for it. Don't spend over the odds on them, you are better spending not a huge amount on them. But change them every so often. I am sure there was a thread about spark plugs and how they can be a bit of a white elpephant

there are 3 sensors in that area that are exactly the same, one is for your ECU, ISV, and coolant temp gauge you will see that they look the same, you can swap the terminals around on all 3 sensors. Vw still stock them, when you buy a new one be carefull when installing and don't over tighten it.

If you cleaned everything out 2 years ago, then a vacumn leak could be it.

Its prob your fuel filter, as when the tank gets really low it draws all the rubbish at the bottom through and the filter gets blocked

I have you got ETKA ? It might up with other part numbers ?

Your metering flap is in the metering head, which is above the airbox, so if you take all of the clips of the airbox that hold the metering head to the airbox. remove the filter so have a little more room if i am right the flap will be above where you filter sits and you can maulally open it from there. So you could try opening it once its running.

okay, oh it could be your flap in the metering head might not opening. It could be worth having a look. Also give it a clean with some carb cleaner. It sounds like that sort of symtom, as you say its idling fine. Other than that, have you checked the pump in the tank works? I would say metering flap then go from there

Have you tried revving the car up straight up off the throttle body?, just incase your throttle cable is sticking

They should get the washers right as its pretty obvious on the diagram there are 4 washers you will need, two of them being smaller than the other two

Not sure if you could get them of the net, if you knew the right size of them, then maybe, the rubber that creates the seal inside the washer would be the tricky bit to correctly order. Is your dealers not open on a Saturday morning? I would really recommend getting them!

hey I dont have the bentley manual near me, but maybe someone else could scan in the page you need and send it to you?

If you put a new filter on it, then get new washers for the banjo bolts either side. For the pennies they are, its worth it incase your old washers don't seal properly and can cause a leak

Your fluid on the floor could be the rear calliper leaking, if the callipers are oringinal then where the handbrake mechanism that goes into the calliper could be slightly weeping past the seals, the best thing to do is to keep an eye on it, as it might get steadily worse which will also made it easier to find the cause. It drips directly onto the floor and does not leave much of a fluid trace on the actual calliper.

Glad to hear your enjoying it ! Its good to read such a positive thread : )

I take it these ones were lighter than the originals, as they were made of stainless and weighed a ton

Well if you phone up VW about a rack, I got quoted a a year back £950 and they could nt even tell me what corrado the rack was for. I would imagine the price would have gone up by now Thats all you get with it is the rack and I think the pipes on the rack

So how many kits are you buying? ; )

Don't count me on this, but if the relay is not working properly then power might not be getting to where its needed. A relay is a switch after all. You should be able to pop the plastic cover of the relay to see the insides to see the damage. They are not expensive to replace.