fendervg

I reckon re-coated reflectors, Osram Nightbreakers and an uprated loom will give you the best of all worlds. If the lens is cracked even slightly or not sealed properly then you'll end up with corrosion on the reflector unfortunately.

Well, you could lose up to 10 horses if it's not mounted exactly right - as for putting it on the wrong side, I dread to think - poor idle and cut out at the very least! You can speed up a normal VR by putting Solitudes on instead of Speedlines, but you have to tell it that they came off a Corrado, not a Golf......

Haha - most of the work creating the special edition went into the badges and the little instructions on where to place them that were sent to the supplying dealers back in the day - that why it's so important to get it right. Only joking and, and not jealous as I only have a normal VR6! Just trying to get a "why is a Storm so special?" thread going again to stir it up as it's bean really quiet on here lately! ;)

Interesting, but have never seen one of these on an OBD1 AAA or ABV engined car - they are off the later 12v VR engines specific to the US.

The lock nut cap is just round on the inside rather than hex bolt shaped. I think they can be got as standard for the newer cars as they nearly all have lock nuts on them.

I've seen them and had them on older cars (G60 steels on a Mk2 and Ronals on an Audi), but just prefer the look of the round ones on Speedlines and VR6 BBS wheels - whatever takes your fancy. I'm not convinced they left the factory with them on in all cases anyway - the bolt covers were much more common on the steel rims, especially where they had the four stud center trim which was held on by the covers. You could always go Max Power on it with some chrome ones!

I have VAG OE ones (with no writing on them) on mine, got them from the dealer - they are round with a hole in the centre for getting them off with that little hook tool - I've also seen them on Mk4/5 Golfs. I think the hexagonal ones look more 80s, and would suit and older alloy or steels.

I like this though - https://www.donedeal.ie/vintagecars-for-sale/saab-900-turbo/23559188

Probably something to do with rust.....or catching fire

Probably because they are A2 platform cars, same as the Mk2, and run 4 stud running gear - they are essentially correct apart from the body and interior - 16v engines and the 4 pot G60 lump were also used in the Golf. It's a bit stupid, but I guess it's supposed to highlight the evolution of the cars - the Mk1 and Mk2 Scirocos were both built on the A1 Golf platform. These days of course most manufacturers build a variety of models on the same platform - look at Audi/VW/Seat/Skoda and most others - for cost reasons.

I'd say 3-5k at least for a respray, depending on quality and then you need to add extra for any rust repair and welding and all the bits of trim and seals that will need replacing. The major cost of a respray is the amount of labour required to strip the car down carefully and then the time and care taken for paint prep work - the latter will really affect the look and longevity of the end result. You can save a fair bit of money by doing as much stripping of the car yourself as you can. You might well end up replacing the windscreen, trim strips, badges, grill and roof trims. Over here in Ireland I would be looking at at least €5000 for a respray - I'd personally not be surprised at an end total of 8-10k for a job up to my standards. I'm sure others will come back with cheaper quotes, but I'm talking a factory finish that will last 10-20 years again.

The motors came supplied with a hex key that clipped into underneath for manually operating the roof - but it has to be done with the motor fitted as the locating key hole is in the motor housing. Are you talking about moving the toothed wheel directly? Most of the parts from the different sunroof mechs are interchangeable and the cassettes are a straight fit - certain features are particular to a model, but I've seen several combinations made to work, and the metal outer panel will just bolt straight on to any of them.

It also works really well with the engine and exhaust and keeps the MAF nice and clean - just as the VW designers intended all those years ago.

Just keep looking for a proper air box - you won't regret it. There are plenty of cars being broken on the facebook group.

Did you try adrad.co.uk? I bought an Hella one off them recently. Just check what brands they are currently stocking. Worth checking fleabay as well.

Ah, the shouldered one that goes through the metal reinforcement bar. I got some from VW a few years ago, ARZ also used to do them.

Which bolt is this? Most of them can still be ordered straight off VW - if not, there are plenty of engineering companies that will make them to order, but you need to be careful with the specifications and materials, depending on where they will be used and the torque.

That's not a 64k mile interior, or else I'm Bruce Wayne....unless a lot of effort went into "aging" it and making it look like sh*ttt

Is that a US Recaro interior? Nice.

Agreed - most likely the sensor. The bridging pins tests only verify the that the fan motor works at all speeds and check for continuity in the wiring and parts of the fan controller module, not the sensors themselves. The only real way check the sensors is to boil a water/coolant mixture, heat up the sensor and check for an open circuit at the correct temp - water alone won't get hot enough. Because the sensors are relatively cheap most people just replace them anyway as a precaution. Can you return the new sensor as faulty and get a replacement maybe?

Good stuff, but very expensive - I had a bad experience with it on some door handles, where it looked fine after application, but then within a few months turned into kind of crystalline finish with little sparkly specks in it. Not sure if this was to do with the material of the handles or not....

Valeo seems to be the best - this has been covered plenty of times. You can still get Mk3 ones from VAG new, but they are about £150 and also made by Valeo. Sometimes you will also see Hella ones. Nearly all other "brands" are crap and not worth buying as they will fail sooner rather than later it's false economy considering how much labour goes into swapping out the matrix - it's not a job you'll want to repeat in a hurry.

You can't really go wron with Wurth products - they are industrial class. I haven't used the plastic dye yet, but the plastic polish works a treat. None of these will last forever and will need ot be done at regular intervals - the materials tech in the 80s just wasn't at the same stage as we are now - the only real solution is to replace with new, but not an option if the trim in question is obsolete. Backe in the day when I had a Mk2 GTI big bumper, I used to get great results with liquid shoe polish - the key is to make sure the surface is clean, then emery with very veryfine paper to give a key, and use some alcohol to clean off afterwards.

You can search for pages from the wiki using Google: "site:the-corrado.net wiki " in the search field should return some results.

3 litres or close is about as far as you can go given the tight tolerances of the block and head - would be interesting allright to see what can be achieved, although you will find plenty of sample figures/graphs for cars with similar mods in the archives on here, VR6OC and on Vortex in the US. Plenty have been down this road before with low cost vs. grins ratio returns, hence the focus now being on charging.