fendervg

Can't help with the Sony, but the Gamma IV is readily available on German fleabay - but the prices seem to have at least doubled in the last couple of years since I bought mine! Make sure you get one with the green lighting, as there was a later red/blue version, but the sellers seem to have this covered in their descriptions. You'll also make sure you get a code card with it to unlock it, as this can be a hassle otherwise. IMHO the Gamma looks more factory than the Sony unit - pic in this thread http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?55703-fendervg-s-VR6-a-k-a-quot-The-Shark-quot&highlight=shark The Nakamichi CD45 looked lovely as well until it was robbed. They come in green or amber.

Suspected as much - thought I'd seen that car somewhere before - maybe he didn't buy it because it was overpriced?

Hi - do you have a part# for this piece? Thanks.

Which one is that? Not coming up as a correct part # for me.

Just a question on these - are they as straight fit so that they do not require any grinding like other after market lenses? The plastic ones can only be used with an LED bulb I understand, but can the glass ones take a halogen bulb, and have they been hardened or are they still as likely to crack as the originals? Many thanks.

Ah, they look the business though....but I agree on the positioning. And it's not paranoia if your Corrado is really out to get you!

I'd guess Classic could very easily run off another batch if there was enough demand - they did it before, that where the last lot came from. But they wouldn't be cheap - even as a factory option these must have cost 200-300 when new. One problem is that they are RHD/LHD specific, so the potential market would be small. IMHO every Corrado should have had a set as standard - they were supposed to be a sports coupe - Audi at least had the decency to put them in all theirs at the time.

If your reflectors are corroded this might reduce the light output - also check the upgraded loom connectors and the battery terminals it connects to for corrosion. An easy check is also to check for voltage at the connector at the headlight - see what you're getting there. These lights are also sensitive to correct alignment, and even a slight error there can put the beam in the wrong place and reduce visibility. It will never compare to a modern car, but with the upgrades you've mentioned it should be quite acceptable and safe.

Great stuff - this was my plan too. Came across a German web site where someone had done it. I have the light fitting and holder and made up a loom with an original plug - just waiting to have enough money saved for some bodywork and will hope to do it then. I prefer the OEM location as well. In terms of the the take-off, it doesn't matter too much where as long as you have the right wire, and a separate earth is probably best. Thanks for the info.

Do you have any more pictures and details of your install? Is it a IK or US spec tailgate?

Very cool looking.

The light feed can come from anywhere on the existing brake light feed or the fitting - just test it see which on it is, or use a multimeter to check. Then either crimp in or use a three-way connector. The earth can run back to one of the existing earths (usually brown) and join up there, or even better run it straight to body ground using a ring terminal and screw at a suitable location. I've done this to two other cars using strip mounted LEDs inside the rear hatch and the wiring worked without a problem. If you have loads of money you can by a US spec tailgate and it's all there! I have the OEM parts for the 3rd brake light - when the car goes to the body shop we'll take a look at cutting out a small section and fitting the bracket.

I just bought them from Heritage or Classic parts when I had to get them - expensive, but was either that or replace everything with silicon. Sometimes they also come up new on eBay, and you might be surprised at what some dealers have tucked away and forgotten about.

10-20bhp for a stainless exhaust is highly optimistic, if not an outright lie. Unless the engine has been heavily modified or converted to forced induction, you would be very lucky to see 5 extra horses, which is barely noticeable - you might get 10-20db though.

OEM all the way. I went to a Milltek even while my factory one was ok and had a few years life left in it, and have always regretted it. The stainless system is louder (if that's your thing), but worst of all it resonates and booms at certain RPMs, especially in 5th and I've had to adjust the fittings often to stop it from rattling. The OEM one is actually very well made, to a long life specification, and is perfectly matched to the standard engine - last time I checked it would have cost in the region of €1500 to replace, but now I'd say it would be very difficult to source, so it's actually more cost-effective to fit a stainless one instead. I've seen standard ones last 150K+ miles though, so that says a lot.

Should be interesting and worth watching - not sure it's a fair comparison though - the Mustang will beat the C on raw power, while the Lotus will on handling. Ah well.....maybe he'll have a soft spot for classic VWs.

I had this a couple of years back and it was a faulty temp sensor switch in the radiator - replaced that and it sorted itself.

Just be careful - while the motors do get tired as the brushes wear out, what can happen is that the mechanism of the sunroof can get so stiff and hard to operate that even a fully working motor will struggle to operate it - as a precaution, check that everything moves freely and is well lubricated and try operating the sunroof by hand with emergency allen key.

Last misfire problem I had was a faulty spark plug, so definitely check/replace them as your first point of call.

Wurth Bond and Seal in black should do the job - someone I know uses it stick satellite dishes on to camper van roofs, so it should hold anything.

Why not just run a normal manifold then? Is there any advantage to running the VSR without the flap and ECU map? Seems a shame to have all the bits and not use it as intended. The vacuum reservoir can tuck away nicely inside the inner wing.

All looks very nice! Did I just read this right to say that you were putting the VSR into a fixed position and using it as a normal manifold without any of the bits? Sacrilege! Did the mapped ECU come with the VSR?

Welcome along - check out the guide in the wiki here, that should answer some of your questions: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/the_corrado_buying_guide_checklist.html It's very unusual to encounter a VR with the old style interior, but can happen. All VR's were 5 stud, had a wider stance ("plus" suspension), raised bonnet section to accommodate the engine, wider wings and different front bumpers with newer fog light/indicator combinations. The main differences between an early and late VR will be with the engine - they started with a distributor and coil and then moved to a coilpack, and later cards had an ECU with built in factory immobiliser. All Corrado VRs had OBD1 engine management. Everything else is more or less the same, with minor variations or revisions to the parts. When people refer to early/late they are either talking about dizzy vs coilpack or pre92 body style (mainly G60/1.8 16v) vs the later one.

Had mine since 2009 - plenty of fun, lots of heartbreak but I reckon there's plenty of life left in the old girl - never give up, never surrender!

Can't see from the link - is it to an app? VR6 will have 280mm discs and matching callipers from factory, although some will have been upgraded to 288mm from the later Golf 3 VR, Personally I would replace both callipers at the same time - or a more economical option is to rebuild them and fit new seals - a company called Big Red sells rebuild kits.