potatonet

oh yeah I forgot about that. good job riley

uh they are on crack. your engine runs smooth? its fine, it needs to be timed, you are running too far in advance by one tooth. the car will start up great and then get hot real quick. it takes normally about 5-10 mins for a corrado to get up to 100c. nothing is plug and play except the existing engine. I would get an R32 engine if you have to buy a new one, or a 1.8t they are relatively easy. just need a harness and ECU, guy here in the states makes a kit for around 700.

uh they are on crack. your engine runs smooth? its fine, it needs to be timed, you are running too far in advance by one tooth. the car will start up great and then get hot real quick. it takes normally about 5-10 mins for a corrado to get up to 100c. nothing is plug and play except the existing engine. I would get an R32 engine if you have to buy a new one, or a 1.8t they are relatively easy. just need a harness and ECU, guy here in the states makes a kit for around 700.

I would check the vacuum line to ure ECU if u have one, G60's have one and if it is old and/or snaps, breaks, rots. there will be a lack of vacuum from the throttle body, the thing that is attached to ure intake manifold(thing that looks like 4 tubes that is on top of the engine. anyway make sure this line is attached and is not old or cracked.

you can tell when you throw a valve and no id doesnt run ok. Dude I just spent 8 months sorting out cooling problems. just hope that its easy. u might be burning too lean, more air = hotter. does the car stumble to a start or does it go right up? if it stumbles then ure timing is off. also how long does it take the car to get boiling hot? the wierd plasticy smell is probably a blue piece of rubber attached to your exhaust manifold melting. or its oil burning from people touching it, i.e. mechanic

sorry didnt realize there were 2 pages

That tick you hear is your idle stabilizer valve for the engine, its a T valve that checks the vacuum in the intake. it conjoins with the intake manifold. dont worry about that it is normal. if your revs dropped check vacuum lines. being that your exhaust is glowing and the fact that you arent turbo or supercharged, your timing is off. unplug your battery remove the timing belt cover and line up the camshaft sprocket with the top edge of the head. now look at where your engines sprocket notch is ( look at the crank pulley's notch, and view where the arrow is pointing, if it is lined up with the notch you are ok, if not, loosen the tensioner with a socket and move the camshaft sprocket up one notch on the timing belt till it is aligned). once this is fixed then remove the clips that hold on the distributor cap. the little orange thing with wires going into it. look at where the notch is lined up, if this is off loosen the bolt that is keeping the distributor tight on the engine. loosen your timing belt tensioner and twist the distributor till it lines up. once that is fixed tighten all of the nuts and tensioner. rotate the engine a few times with a socket on the pulley, check to see if they are all aligned still and if yes then try starting your engine. attach your battery. also if your car doesnt start after this, check the fuses your timing issues could have blown your 02 sensor and fried the fuse that leads to your fuel pump. also make sure ure ECU isnt fried, PS. GET A BENTLEY MANUAL!!!!! also do all your own work, corrado's are easy to work on, unless you have a VR, sorry VR guys

coolant gets hotter. oil should match it up to about 160 F once oil is hotter than engine with a stock thermo it should be about 10-15 degrees above coolant. replace your black sender unit

make sure ure ISV is plugged in, the back of the Throttle body has the black plug in spot. if you are unplugged there then ure RPMS will stay high. just for good measure check ure injector seals.

ure thermo is under the aluminum cover for your AC compressor under your AC compressor under the car. after that there is a black plastic cover. if I were you and were going to try to unstick it I would just buy a new one because its a bitch to get to. anyway, which sensor are you talking about, there is a red light by the water temp that states that you are out of coolant, if that one is blinking you should check the expansion tank, or buy a new one for 20 pounds. if the car isnt overheating dont change the thermo just get a tank.

custom ones of course

I am gonna say yes, but I dont know, all I know is there are a lot of G60 syncro corrado's out there.

look at my avartar, it says it all. I have new intercooler piping, 65mm pulley, fully custom ECU, ISV reroute, spark plug wires, just the basics, but type R stays about 4 car lengths behind. also watch out for their third gear once they hit VTEC they pull quite a bit, friend of mine has a GSR, I race him every day kick his ass every time, but third gear you see him gain about a car length on you.

I am tired of looking for people with ETKA, being that I am US I need US ETKA, I wouldnt mind European ETKA it possible either. If anyone has a version that they are willing to share I would love to have a copy. thank you

1990 G60 just replaced the injector seals, made the engine run smooth as a kitten. the only problem I have is that I have noticed power drops randomly when going around random RPMS, sometimes 2500 sometimes 4800 etc. it feels like I am going and then the power just drops RPMs stay but I have no pull. no its not the charger cause MFA is reading 12 psi. like I said its random it doesnt happen all the time. I cant tell when its gonna come, just when I wanna go fast I cant, RPMs rise but car goes slow. no its not the tranny tranny is new.

so you cleaned the Idle stabilizer and by doing that it made the problem worsen.... thats not right, sounds to me like that could be the problem. if you have a 4 cyl check your distributor cap. plugs etc. also the little black cube on the back of ure throttle body needs to be plugged in. check ure ECU for fried connections. the digifant one, mine fried one side of the board and caused the injectors to spray full. couldnt idle correctly and died unless I held revs. if the ECU is fried try taking it to VW, its a recall. as of 01

no tsk I have a 12.5 gallon tank with reserve. darn it I wanted the 18

if I put a VR6 gas tank in my G60 will it fit. I need the bigger tank so that I dont have to fill up once a week. is it just a drop in and does anyone have one available for sale in the US.

yes I will once I get the pulley on and I will read the mfa for differences. though its not as accurate

all I know is that I have AC but I am checking my pulley number today to make sure that I am not getting what I already have. it would make more sense for them to do that. the MFA is always off I am gonna buy a boost gauge ASAP

I have a 90 corrado. I know they make a bigger one. I am gonna buy it anyway and hope for the best because I am addicted to boost. SNS tuning stated that the 92 passat G60 crank was bigger hmmmm... I dont know all I know is that this is the first time I have heard of this and I know way too much about corrado's to have missed this. I think its because its a passat. anyway I will tell you guys how it goes.

its froma 92 passat by the way.

ok so what I got out of the guy after a bit of a struggle was a part number of 037-105-255. so if anyone can check this number for the verification of the fact that its from a passat G60 and if it is actually bigger, I do need someone from europe to check this so basically all of you but the 150 from the US.

this guy is trying to sell me a G60 crank pulley from a passat G60 claiming that its approx 3mm bigger, this would allow my charger with a 65mm pulley to get more boost. being that I am in the states and I cant check with the local stealer if this is correct, I need one of you blokes in Euroville to tell me if this is true, henny probably already knows and is laughing at my use of "blokes". anyway I need someone to tell me if this is true, also I believe it will work on my 1990 G60 correct? I just need a custom sized belt.

Things that were also recently replaced in the cooling system were headgasket, thermostat, coolant resevoir, coolant system cap, both head flanges, and heater core. only thing I havent done is water pump and Fan I believe.