potatonet

ok so what if you werent using porsche wheels, I want some 17" borbet type E's for my G60 and I can only get them for VR's how hard is it to fit them on, is it just take mine off put the new ones on.

would you all like to really know how to do it, you have to de-weld the inner wheel, this is only meant for porsche look alike wheels, porsche does have some welded wheels and some one piece wheels, depends on what car they are from. if they are welded you can tell. DOING THIS TO A REAL PORSCHE WHEEL IS VERY HARD! You will need to have a shop align and section the wheel, I did this for a VW beetle once, they came out perfect in the end couldnt tell they werent supposed to be there. Porsche uses TIG, Tungsten Inert Gas, Welds on all of their wheels and every weld ont their cars, THIS IS TOUGH AS SHIT AND EXPENSIVE TO REDO! before you attempt this take a welding class unless you know someone with a tig welder and lots of experience. When you get it apart, then you need to measure and chop the size section out of the INNER part of the wheel please dont do this yourself, take it to a shop and have them cut it so that it is perfectly lined up. Clean both sides up and weld again, make sure while you do this that the rim is perfectly aligned or you will feel a nice wobble on the road. what we did is we line drilled and fitted studs into 8 points around the wheel. drill the other side and place together, at this point you need to compress the wheel together, then weld. we used a tire intaller to do the weld due to the fact that the rim spins freely, it worked out great, we have taken them upwards of 120 mph and they were fine. the problem with rolling is that they crease and then break, there goes an expensive wheel. it costs about 1250 for all the labor and time and supplies to do this to all 4 wheels.

I have a g60 from the US, I think mine is in the air duct for the brake on the passenger side. yeah thats the only other sender I know that I havent messed with on my car

oh ok whats does bhp stand for cause I thought it was braking horsepower, I guess I get 225 bhp, I got the thing chassis dyno tested and it pulled a 198.6 max for hp and 217.1ft/lbs for torque. dont know how to convert that to nm, sorry. and jimsg60, what have you done to your car performance wise. also what altitude are you at? it changes the HP drastically, I am at 1500 ft.

it is also possible to fit a kompressor from MB onto these cars, however the MB kompressor on AMG models is a little out of everyones price range despite its capabilities.

I also say throw away your 8v head and get a 16v one and the integration kit from BBM. my plans for a 16V G60 Syncro corrado are all falling into place, thank you BBM, ahahahahahah

I have been looking for a twin screw charger for some time now, Whipple in the US has made a kit for the stocker but nothing more, I have been waiting for eaton to make one but I dont htink that will happen, so far all I have seen is the BBM lysolm one, they do also make a silencer kit for the charger that they sell for 2500, its 700 dollars more but it doesnt have the blaring "mile away" whine.

ok so I replaced the ignition switch because the car wouldnt go when I turned the key at the DMV(department of motor vehicles). The car will now attempt to start up all the time but wont always start like before. there is a knocking noise in the gas tank area, did something break off, I dont know. has anyone ever had the alternate fuel pump fail and break off? I am gonna rip that section out tomorrow and see what happens, I hope my car doesnt blow up like it did on my arm before.

uh huh, I have a G60 in the states with a worn out charger that needs rebuilding with a 65mm pulley and a custom programmed ECU, my car gets about 200 at the weels right now, my charger has been dropping PSI so I am at about 13-13.5 right now. The car pulls like no tomorrow and I agree with the Golf G60 IC its a much better idea even though they are very hard to find. make sure that if you do the pulley you check to see if the shafts match otherwise you will be doing a lot of tapping and filing.

so scirocco ones wont work?

Also, the gas pedal has a different feel to it sometimes. It will be hard to push every once in a while. I know this means vacuum leak somewhere.

This is why I dont think that my ignition switch is smoked, is my fuel pump smoked, cause I dont know what the clunking noise is. only happens at 2100 rpms, and 1200 rmps, yes wierd coincidence on the numbers

So recently I have been having trouble starting my car and sometimes I would have aloss of HP, ok so well today I start the thing and it once again has trouble turning over, so I get it out of my driveway with little/no gas being applied, so when I get to the edge of my Drieway I let the clutch out for first gear and the thing almost stalled on me, even though I was pressing the gas pedal. I had a full tank of gas as well. so then I high rev first gear so that it will go, it goes. till I get to the stop sign about 20 feet from my house, then I get to go again, well I press the gas and let the clutch out again and it does the same thing, I then have to press the clutch add more gas, the revs and this point climb very slowly, about 1000rpms in 5 seconds, then I let the clutch out, drops in power to the point where it almost stall again but doesnt, then I get the BIGGEST Surge in power cause I have it floored, that I have ever felt in the car, it shot up to 6000 RPMS like nothing cause thats how it normally works, then it drops back down to 3200 veryt quickly while I am still floored, then it does it again, 2 times, till it decided to fully work and, now I have a clonking noise in my trunk area, have had it for a while, its over by the gas filler, not the fuel pump, anyone got anything on this. the car will have dead HP spots sometimes as well

Hey Blackout16V where are you in california, I am in Santa rosa which is a little north of SF

yeah I had to replace all of mne when I had that problem it created a nice pocket in the cooling system, VW dealer/stealers have them, the run about 8 US dollars with the O-ring.they made a metal one? never knew that, anyone know where I can get one?

Check to see that you have the knock sensor/ idle stabilizer valve plug on the back of the throttle body plugged in, I had the same problem till I plugged that in, then I realized that the boost build rate sucks and then unplugged it again so that my car wouldnt be so slow off the line.

hmmm, grounding straps, sounds like fun, I will test the battery, and then the gorunding lines, perhaps I have a crappy connection to the engine I did just do the headgasket so that could be it. sorry for pissing you off vr6storm. the car does have noticable dead spots while driving, its like one second I will have loads of HP and then I will have none, I thought it was the charger but the charger is putting out the PSI so I am still suspicious about the fuel pump, when it idles and then I go again, like at a stop light, the car sometimes has to get a lot of gas to go because the car isnt putting enough HP out for the clutch to pull the car anywhere, and then sometimes it doesnt do that, imagine 210 HP for 15 seconds, then 130 for about 2 seconds (enough time for me to let the gas out then hit it again). thats what it feels like when its driving, or sometimes I just dont even get HP at all its like 170 for the whole day, my MFA boost readout is up at 220-230 and I am not getting the HP I normally get, its about 10-13 PSI. it feels like the car doesnt start on all cylinders, like maybe 2 or 3, then when I give it gas it will fire the others and even out the engine, Pretty sure the injectors are ok. is this any help?

wow if your oil temperature goes up to 145C i feel sorry for all of you! mine goes to 208F or 98C, thats standard heat max I have seen it ever is 122C or 252F

Anybody got anything that they are positive on because I spent 1000 dollars in parts for my cooling system as I was stabbing at possible things it could be.

could it be my starter? This is exactly what happens, the car attempts to turn over, gets some gas in there, doesnt want to turn over fully, I have to get more gas into the engine to get it to start, only happens when its cold. when I let go of the key and try to start it again I get this click,click,click,click,click rapidly, and then I let the key go, then it will attempt to start again. its getting to the point where even if it is warm it will do it but not as much trouble starting it just stumbles up to idle.

I have a 90 and its been having a load of problems recently, I finally fixed the overheating issue, it was my radiator. my new problem is that my car has trouble starting, the car doesnt want to turn over and will slowly stumble to a halt if I let go of the key, the car runs fine while its driving I dont know why it doesnt like to start though. anyone got anything, fuel pump fuel filter? something?

how do you modify the existing one, by adding a bushing somewhere? cause I had that on the neuspeed shifter that cost 500 us dollars and the bushing fell apart. piece of crap, well at least I didnt buy the shifter.

ya I have a midrange right there in mine it looks nice, I would suggest putting the switch on the side of the center console, might look awkward but it keeps it hidden and kinda cooler.

yeah post one it sounds like you screwed the box into the wrong holes, there are other holes that are closer to the front of the dash in my US corrado, the real ones hang out further back at an angle.

hey henny good job with the 3 wheeling, thats hard thing to do for me with my hard ass bilsteins