seanl82

I saw the documentary on it a while back, was quite funny really! And yes, their lack of understanding is hard to believe, but it is true. What they think can cure Aids is even worse though. :(

Oh and the mounting points are the same too!

Cant see there being a problem provided the kr alternator will provide enough juice, and the pulleys are the same or swapped mate.

Early valver bonnet dips in at the middle, the VR is too big, hence the reason it was changed when the vr's came in to a raised middle part. The clocks are different, as the rev counter is lower (7k iirc) on the VR, where as it goes to 8k on the valver, top speed is also different I think, so speedo drive will show incorrect speed. Not only will the revs be off too, but early valvers took revs via vacuum pipe at the back of the clocks, whereas the vr takes it electrically from the ecu. Thats also the reason for loom probably. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news!

Been to manheim auction in Cornwall a couple of times, and all the cars are parked up and can be view prior to auction. They all have a sales note in the window (milage, service history, mot expiry etc) but are locked up. You can have a visual check before the start, but cannot start them up, or check under bonnet ect. As mentioned though, you have an hour window after sale to check everything I believe. I'm sure its the same at BCA too, and usually there is a seperate auction for traders and commercial on a different day. You do have to pay for membership now though, so if you want to bid, they have all your details. Think membership is about £15 so not gonna break the bank. As mentioned, go along and enjoy the day. Gives you a feel for the atmosphere and will help you relax in the place when it comes to the day you buy. You wont get carried away with bidding then! Lol

I had a solid front, and fast road rear and GB mounts in the valver. I cant recommend them enough! Almost no cabin vibration, but very solid feel and very little engine movement under heavy load. Worth every penny imo!

Whole front running gear, subframe, bonnet as well to your list mate. Clocks, ecu, wiring loom etc etc

I think it will need to be carefully managed though. Donations from CCGB to here must be where it stops, otherwise you run the risk of this forum offering almost everything that CCGB offers for free, and diminishing memberships further. They need to remain completely separate entities imo. I know thats what is being suggested, but in 2,3,5 years time, things may change, and the club would be up the creak so to speak.

If you can afford a 993 at what? 18-22k maybe......... surely you can afford to keep the VR as well!?

I'm not a member of CCGB, as I didn't see the point with this site available when I began my Corrado ownership. I didn't understand the purpose of it fully, and there was very little info on the 'about us' page. I'd recommend a little more info for new members on what being part of the club offers and entails. The focus seems to just be on receiving discounted prices on parts and insurance etc, but I can get that by using discount codes from other VW forums. More emphasis on what the club offer, and does for potential new members, with details of the previous year(s) events etc would be my recommendation to further "sell" the concept. This is absolutely constructive criticism, and I love this forum and everything that being a Corrado enthusiast brings with it. I'd happily become a member of CCGB if it was "sold" to me. I think I'm just a bit like most others in this current climate. It may only be £10 currently, (even £15 is actually a very small amount!), but if I can get almost everything from this forum that CCGB has to offer (minus sprinter), I'd be happier with the £10/15 in my pocket tbh. I now know, but only by being a member on here, so I'll deffo be becoming a member when when I get the next one in Spring. Its focus on those that were like me (new to Corrados totally), rather than hoping they stumble upon it or become a member after owning it for a period of time. :thumbleft:

That seems an awful lot of work, compared to just putting an ABF in anyway for 150bhp standard. Having had a 1.8 (pictured), Its a great car. I drove a 2.0 when I was looking, and was utterly disappointed tbh. It didn't feel at all like it had more torque low down, and there was nothing after 5k rpm. The KR I chose (again, pictured), although again didn't have an awful lot of torque low down, as soon as you hit about 4.5k rpm, it felt almost like a light v-tec! The torque seemed to be great the higher up the rev range I went, and pulled all the way to the red-line. The only performance mods it had was a Jetex panel filter, 4 branch, and SS exhaust. I'd recommend a drive in both, to see how it suits your friends driving mate.

I used a battery blanket from a mk3 Golf. They are also starting to creap uo in price though as they are becoming less common, but its another option regardless.

Groomer. :grin: Sorry.................

My Uncle owns a place in Villa Martin, 10 minutes from Murcia Airport. Its a gated housing complex and very private, but with two open complex's with Bars, restaurants, shops, a supermarket, and even an estate agent, less than 5 minutes walk away. Me, the wife and our daughter have been a couple of times now, its awsome! If you can find one for rent (just google 'rental property in south Spain' or something similar), and go have a look. With budget airlines, its a really good and cheap way to get in the sun and relax! I'd suggest going for a holiday first and scoping out where you'd be thinking about a more permanent place, if you are serious of course. You can then enquire a little more whilst you're there. The last thing you want is to take the plunge so far away, then get there and it be an unfinished building site where work has ground to a halt, and the bloke that has all your money on a plane to Brazil! lol. Have a look where the closest airport flies to as well, as this will make a massive difference to your "commute" and make the whole process seem very easy to deal with if its close. As said its my Uncles place, and he splits his time there. He lives and works in Bristol, and easyjet fly from Bristol Airport direct to Murcia. That was a big reason for him choosing there I think.

Love it, makes you proud to be a Corrado owner... Oh wait........................... Makes you proud to be a Corrado lover! I even made the missus read it, just to reiterate my point about how much I love them! :lol:

Rubjohnny on GolfGti and clubGTI forum is very experienced at this, does a fantastic job with a very quick turnaround from what I've heard. May be worth giving him a shout.

My golf3 got to 160, which is actually the upper limit of the oil temp sensor. The engine didn't survive on that either. Was on the A38 at the time, and my water temp shot up. I'd replaced the rad about a month before, and had only done town driving until then so thought it may be an air lock. Topped it up with water, waited a little while for it to cool, then went on my merry way again. A couple of miles down the road, it did the same. I didn't think to check the oil temp for some stupid reason the first time, but I checked it this time, and it was there! After shutting down, and topping up again once oil temps came right down, it wouldn't start. Crank sensor insulation had cracked away. Turned out the oil cooler had died, and HG had also given way. New lump was only £85 delivered though, and had less milage! :lol:

Copper slip is good for thread anti corrosion, although it does collect a fair amount of dirt and grit.

Sorry wrong topic!

Done. A bit of guess work as to price, as I have absolutely no idea how much something like this would cost! Seeing as its something for a Corrado though, probably not cheap! lol

An ebay obd2 lead with vagcom light will give u a reasonable amount of diagnostics, although some are a pain to connect from what Ive heard. I had an orange handheld u281 code reader when I had my Golf, and it was invaluable. Only about £22 on ebay too.

Not cheap though!

The click is just the relay. Can u actually hear the pump prime though? If its not even turning over though, its pointing toward ignition switch rather than the pump anyway. If it was turning over but not firing, that would point toward spark or fuel problems.

Sounds a reasonable explanation, fair enough. Obviously different products can be easier/harder to remove, and its also dependant on temperatures/sunlight if you are doing it outdoors, and how long you leave the product to bond before buffing. I generally read reviews before buying new waxes or sealants, and would probably avoid using ones that can be particularly difficult to remove. Again I'm not trying to be patronising, just posting my thoughts for the good of the thread and for anyone reading.

Didn't mean to sound funny or patronising, I'm just stating that I have reasonable experience, and know the preferred methods of most pro "detailers", and also know that these methods work for me too. Regardless of whether the car was inside or out, flicks of polish would dry out is all I'm saying. If you have a different method then that's fine, each to their own. There is no need to wash after polishing. You simply buff off the residue using microfibres, or if you are a little finicky (like me), go over it with a polishing oil remover. Its not really necessary, I just always seem to find the very occasional and very small haze of polish I've missed whilst buffing it off. Like I said though, there is no real need. The cutting/polishing process is complete, and the paintwork is at its best. All it needs afterwards is to be sealed/waxed. Why do you wash after polishing may I ask?