seanl82

Remove the setting dial, and make sure the metal contact for setting 2 is raised enough for the dial to make contact when its on setting 2. Could be as simple as that if the resistor pack has been changed that many times. If its been changed that many times, there is obviously an underlying issue.

Thats what I was trying to say!

I just used heat reflective tape. (Sticky silver foil tape). I don't know why foam was used originally, assuming its to allow a very small amount of air through even when not directed, but if I want air to the vents/screen/footwell, I'll just direct it there......

Fuse? http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

There is only one rear fog (if thats what you're referring to). The LHS has a blank connector plate so won't accept a bulb either.

I think very few will be flagged on a HPI check personally. Its usually not HPI clear due to outstanding finance. The fact that the vast majority are now sold privately means that they should be. Of course its always wise to do a check prior to purchase, and when I bought mine I got a 3 car check as I was looking at a few. Mine was the first I saw though and is clear though so I offered the 2 checks to forum members at the time.

Oh and Harriers car! Sorry Daren, yours is right in the mix too of course. :thumbleft:

Chris Gaskells/Chris Lees old one, Kip's VR6, Judy's is also there, and for a modified one, Goldies is probably my favourite. I've seen a few in the metal, but there are plenty I haven't so hard to judge. Also those that are not any or are on other forums that I've not seen.

It is winter and most are still tucked away being occasional cars. Plus, it's started getting icy so roads are being salted. Got to be careful to keep the tin worm away!

Nice one Rob, glad you got them all sorted. :thumbleft:

Haha, you've obviously got the bug getting another! I love it when things like that happen, I feel for the guy who forked out on apparent "professionals" to try to get it running, but its great for you that its something so simple. Just goes to show, such is the auto mechanical profession now that unless it tells them what is wrong when they plug their diagnostic tools in, they're stumped!

Congratulations! just read the thread, you've done a great bit of work there. Not so sure on the inpro fogs and indicators, and as mentioned the wheels are a touch too big but those are just my opinions. Glad you're enjoying it so much as well, keep it up, looks lovely! :thumbleft:

Good effort so far! Your doing the right thing ensuring everything is labelled, tapes and bagged up to aid get ting it back gogether. Take lots of photos as well as it helps when referencing where everything is routed. I had the same issue with my looms, I ended up buying a complete set of good looms from a breaker as like you, remnants from alarms where they had been splice d in were terrible. The ICE install was far worse though with twisted wires uninsulated everywhere! Look forward to seeing the updated, keep up the good work! :thumbleft:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9X56N-wsAw

Have a look for your paint code on the sticker in the boot. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?37863-Paint-Codes

I reckon you probably could. The amount of 2.8 lumps with all ancilliaries including FPR that were originally attached to a 2.9 are plentiful, and although its the other way around there have never been reports of any issues. I've seen plenty of 2.9 lumps in Golf VRs as well and don't think any of that has been changed. They see it as a bit of an upgrade, although the inlet manifold will be just as effective as the entire engine with regard to power!

From what I've heard, the valves can be replaced but the send back unrepairable units if there is physical damage either internally or externally, as they can't guarantee it.

Even better Rob! I don't really know how they're made up but I think the in tank unit is made up of a few parts from what I remember. The pump itself sits in a housing which is mounted on rubber feet from what I remember. I've heard that these break down so the pump rolls around a bit which has caused cutting out issues when cornering for some. I need to investigate a bit more to see what is going on. My tank isn't connected but I strapped it back on to the underside for transportation when I moved house. We will be finished with the house renovation by Summer so I can put some time into the poor girl then!

Well it produced 195.9 bhp, 196 lb ft torque on the RR at stealth (a couple of years ago but only about 1k miles ago) so don't think it's struggling to get fuel. Always worth having one at the ready for £70 though!

Have you cleared the codes from within the specific abs test then tried again? I was chasing codes that weren't there as they don't clear when resetting DTCs. But if so, yeah with the inlet and outlet ports it definitely sounds like your pump.

Glad you've got it sorted! My gauge drops when climbing (or descending, I can't remember it's been so long since I've driven it!), so thinking of replacing it at some point as I think the mounts have gone. I need to open it up to inspect really, but need some nice big oil filter pliers or something to undo the top nut as it's stuck fast!

I know some have used them and they've worked (which is why I tried it), but unfortunately not for me!

Yeah I bought one. The symptoms were worse than my original so I sent it back for a replacement, but the replacement was almost as bad. I ended up just cutting my losses and bought a known good second hand one.

Thanks mate. :thumbleft:

Hope it sorts it for you. Out of interest, where did you get the fuel pump and parts from?