seanl82

Everything that's powder coated from factory! It's not as expensive as you might think, I had all my items done for under £200 in nylon coating which is apparently harder wearing. Everything from rad support, rad fan shroud, cross member, bonnet stay, and all the brackets I could think of so it all looked uniform. Well worth doing at least the bits that are looking a little worse for wear.

Yeah but the badges and colour coded grille add 10 bhp. Fact!

New wheels..... If they're protruding from the arch but you need 23mm spacers just to clear standard brakes, you have the wrong offset wheels. 17" wheels with 205/40 tyres require an offset of around ET35. What's the offset of the wheels you have on now?

Good work! If you've got children and ever want to fit them in the back, don't get a Mini! I've had a few as hire cars and actually really rate them for driving, but I'd never had passengers in the back. I was looking for a new car in December so actually looked at the Mini, but I actually looked at it practically this time. I'm only 5.10" and there was absolutely no way even my young kids could get in the back with me driving. The seat was almost all the way back and about 4 inches from the rear bench, so unless you get a 5 door Clubman (even the 3 doors are atrocious for rear legroom) then look elsewhere. Incidentally, I bought a crap French car in the end (2015 Pug 308), and since about the second week of driving it, I've regretted my decision!

An impact driver is your best option Cluffy. Get them up to a decent amount so they won't move from the correct position, and lower the car to the floor. That way all the weight it on the top mounts so they should tighten a bit easier with the mounts not spinning. Mole grips with a folded rag over the teeth and attached to the damper shaft may also help it stop spinning a little. Good luck!

I had lightly tuned early 16v before my VR6 and I did like it I must be honest. I test drove a late 2.0 16v prior to buying it, and I thought it felt awfully underpowered. the early (1.8) 16v needed a good thrashing to get the best out of it, as like the VR6 it had a power band at about 4k rpm but really went well from there. They're lighter and as its narrow track as well, it really handled well. Unfortunately the Range Rover won with that one though. :(

Rob, I think the wiring follows the loom as it comes down the RH side of the centre console, so may be worth poking your hand around that area to find it mate

Yes but charger rebuilds every 30-40k miles depending on state of tune, compared to chain replacement once in the engines lifetime is the difference

Welcome along and good luck with your search! Bit quiet on the forum at the moment but give it a month or two and aeveryone who has had their car tucked away for the winter will come flooding back! Have a look in the wiki section for a good buyers guide and some helpful hints and tips. :thumbleft:

If you don't think there much power in the VR6 you'll be sorely disappointed in the others. The G60 may feel a little more torquey low down, but it won't be in reality unless it's very highly strung. If your after serious power, find a supercharged or even better, turbo charged VR6. Hope you have deep pockets though

My rad support was exactly the same. I had it nylon coated which is apparently more hard wearing, but just like paint it seemed to be thinner on the edges so began to go there. It wasn't bad as it hadn't seen a lot of road time, but I just used some hammerite smooth after rubbing it down a bit to get the layers up at the edge

Original shocks are oil filled. The Bilstein B4 are gas filled but modern gas filled struts are pretty close in comparison.

Yeah the Corrado ones are OE from Classic parts, the mk2 ones are aftermarket SSP ones. Cheap as chips those, good find.

Ok, I retract my statement, I didn't notice it was for the pair. :bonk:

Or get them from the UK cheaper............ https://www.vwheritage.com/corrado/corrado-brakes/rear-brake-calipers-discs-pads#page=1&top=1994& PM Anna on here as she works there, and get the discount code for a bit more off too.

The fit is atrocious. Just look at the headrests on the rear seats, it looks like a GCSE textile project gone seriously wrong!

Wow, didn't realise Stevie Wonder did re-trims too! :lol::cowboy: Love the description too, "Rare, show car" hahahaha!!!!!

The crank sensor housing is the engine block, so I'd be a bit worried if it were warped due to jacking! I've changed one without issue too, so as mentioned it sounds like something is fouling it.

Mine were like that when I got it too. Seems the PO just used a brush to slap on the carrier and caliper paint everywhere, including the boots and pads! You should be able to clean it all up, and copper grease the slider pins. Replacement boots are pence.

Sounds like its a great price, even with it being cat c. GLWS!

Mine has been SORN for over 2 years now. I could put it back together tomorrow and get an MOT without a problem at all, but I want the bits you can't see to be as good as the bits you can.

Its not about saving money on tax, its the fact that as I said, they are true enthusiast owned and therefore cherished. They are under cover, or in a garage out of the rain and off salted roads for the winter months in order to preserve them.

I think you're wrong about the SORN cars currently. I bet half of those are SORN at the moment because they are already cherished cars, so have been taken off the road for the winter. Check again in 6 months and I expect there to be far more on the road than laid up.

I think they are at the point where that isn't quite as true now. The really rough ones will be broken, simply because they are so bad or difficult to sell. Good ones are seldom being broken anymore, though top spec ones are being stripped slightly to recoup certain costs. (Shrick, Recaros sold separately etc).

Yeah the dials should just pull off with a stiff tug. The facia is the same but just be careful as the retaining clips can be a little fragile. The screws are accessed from behind the facia.