seanl82

Did you paint your rod ends and ball joints? I'd replaced mine about a year and 1k miles before taking it off the road and there was already surface rust on them so I'll probably paint them as well. Did you just mask up the boots if so? I've got some epoxy paint for my running gear refurb which I'll be using. I've de-greased and sanded back the rear beam and I'll be doing the rest of the rear end parts and painting friday hopefully. Starting that end first. More details on the F40 too! :thumbleft:

This man has enough parts to build about 5 cars! Stop hoarding all the good stuff! lol

Looks ace. Can't wait to get to this. Seems I'm stuck still cleaning the underside as it'll be pointless putting nice shiny bits back onto a filthy bottom! lol. Why has no one mentioned about the F40 engine! What is that doing there!? :crazyeyes:

That's where it's supposed to go mate

In fairness they're crap anyway. I wouldn't leave it on at shows as the get nicked, and an aftermarket metal one is far better for actually removing the leads. I have one but it lives in the garage.

Cluffy, it'll be cheaper to source a used cloth interior of the same pattern fabric as yours. It doesn't matter what the drivers side is like, but the foam bolsters and fabric can be removed from the passenger side and is a direct replacement for the drivers side. It's what I did and mine are excellent now.

I thought they were bonded..... Mine was removed when it went for paint Martin, and it came out and went back in without any damage the same as the screen (although I wish it had been which would have been good for a replacement). I used Erb motors in Copnor behind toys r us, although they outsourced the glass removal and fitting. Did a really neat job so may be worth a call to see who they use if you're struggling mate.

The sensor is just a blank mate. Was something to do with emission control for the US market iirc, so probably just the pipe brittle and broken again mate

:wave: I'm still here. Just been mega busy at work over the last 12 months. I'll have some updates to mine over the next month though hopefully

I have VT mounts and they're actually cheaper than OE ones! I have competition front and fast Road rear. I did have fast Road GB too but swapped it back to standard as although I didn't feel any vibration, I could hear the gearbox whine which I didn't like

That Hose looks like the rear beam flexi. The correct one should have a male end. The mk4 calipers have banjo fittings so sit horizontalally on the Caliper. Might be worth putting pics up of both of yours to see if we can identify which Caliper of yours is wrong mate

Welcome to the forum, congrats on the new one bur both look like excellent examples. :thumbleft:

The back end of the RUF looks like a mk1 TT when viewed side on. The 993 GT2 is in my top 3 (probably 1st) of all time too! Man I love that car.

I think it's just Facebook and other social media taking over nowadays. Think we've been quite lucky on here as there hasn't been many of the type of people that cause agro.

We'll all be in the same boat before too long. If the lens is OK I think the best option is to get the reflectors refurbished. There are a couple of companies in the UK that offer the service.

It was in Titchfield, near the Recycling centre.

Just to throw another one into the mix, the brake pedal position sensor may be worth checking. Its the cylindrical thing attached to the servo, just below the reservoir. Its essentially just a variable resistor by use of a piston/shaft in the centre. Easy to remove (remove the circlip and pull hard to break the vacuum), then test resistance with a multimeter when pushing in the shaft.

I wouldn't recommend the wheel specialist in Fareham either Ron. Cost me a bloody fortune, and you could still see where the corrosion had been under the new powder coat.

Is it turning over Stella? Starter motor you mention suggests its not, so that would rule out the spark plugs. If it was turning over and not firing it could be coil pack not providing spark, but if it was just a single plug then it would probably start but be down on one cylinder so be very lumpy. Did you try hitting the starter motor whilst the key was turned trying to start it? I kid you not, it sometimes works if its a sticky solenoid!

If it starts and cuts out a second later, it'll be immobiliser. If it won't even crank and battery has been replaced, more than likely ignition switch or wiring/earth fault. If it cranks but won't start, depends if you have lack of spark or lack of fuel, but fuel pump or ECU relay are the most likely culprits. Shouldn't be too big a problem hopefully Stella. :thumbleft:

On another note, a new daily is being picked up tomorrow. Bye bye to the Pug 206, driving a 1.1 is a bit tedious especially as I'll be doing a bit of travelling for the next 6 months, so I've bought a 2006 Passat Estate 2.0 Diseasal DSG. Showing my age and getting a bit lazy I suppose, but its really easy cruising and much more comfortable. :D

Water temp shouldn't get past 100 degrees if all is well. It should sit around 90, then when it starts creeping up past that the fans should bring it back down. Oil temps are the very important one. That shouldn't go above 120 I'd say, and that caning it round a track! So long as it's staying below 114 say, I'd be happy with that in this hot weather. What temperatures are you seeing?

Cheers Rob, good to see you too mate. I'm sure it won't be as long as the last time til we meet again! :)

How much are you looking for Caz?

Paint arrived for the running gear this week. Kids are in Bristol with my folks for a week the from 6th August so I'll have a good bit of time to Crack on and get things done. Should have the rear beam assembled and back on hopefully. [emoji4] Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk