seanl82

It'll potentially damage your lambda sensor so could cause emissions test failure at MOT, but a small amount is unlikely to damage the engine.

Theres your annual oil change anyway!

Depends what the symptoms are mate. Are there any minor or major leaks? If not, its likely going to need internal work with the head (valve stem seals) or block (piston rings). Either way it'll require further digging by removing the head to check. Do you get blue smoke from the exhaust when coming off the throttle?

I'm having my rear beam and subframe etc blasted, then painting it with this http://www.rust.co.uk/em-121-epoxy-rust-proofing-chassis-paint/c28117/# I had my rad support and fan shroud etc powder coated a couple of years ago (nylon coated - apparently more hard wearing) and its started to corrode slightly at the edges, so thought this will be even longer lasting still.

All the feedback I've read has mentioned them being just too harsh, and they really don't last at all. Literally a year or 2 before they require replacing again so it seems pointless to me anyway. Yeah I've got a fair few stainless nuts and bolts (non load bearing) for it, but most I took out were in decent condition so I had them coated. Got quite a few new bits too which I had done, including all the heat shield speed clips which were linked earlier on in the thread. Some of the cable/brake/fuel line clips are quite expensive, but all are available aftermarket on ebay for a reasonable price. I've gone with Kunifer brake pipes as it doesn't corrode like copper but is much harder. You can get a set made up by Volksworld on here but I like making things myself and it helps me accumulate tools as well as saving in costs. I've spent a good 12 hours cleaning the underside and still have a way to go though. Its bloody hard work! lol.

ARBs maybe, I wouldn't bother with too much else to be honest mate. You could do the TT rear wishbone bush upgrade, but Id avoid poly bushes and just stick to stock where possible. If you can't get genuine, I believe Lemforder are the best alternative. I've had most of my underside bolts and metalwork Zinc coated too to add a bit of longevity. It won't be driven in the rain where possible, but every little helps and I had a fair size box of bits done for £50

In on an N plate (95/96), and its mystic so probably a genuine Storm. Agreed though, not the best advert and no details at all. Strong money but looks nice on the face of it (minus the wheels).

My car had achieved 75k within 3 years from 1St registration. It done almost that much again in the 21 years since which works out on average 3.5k per year. This is similar to what I've been putting on it, although this has dwindled to a a big fat zero since December and probably won't change for a fair few months yet!

I got those too. Lots of different places to get the various bits. I've cleaned most of the Underside now and apart from a few local areas where the factory underseal has come away around the securing bolts/rivets, mine is pretty good. The VW underseal is quite expensive but I'll only need one I think so I'm going with that to try and keep it as factory looking as possible

Apologies, seems I'm getting a bit confused in my old age. I remembered the fronts having a screw fitting but not the rear. :scratch: As you were!.......

Yeah fronts need a banjo fitting if converting to mk3 or mk4 calipers, but the rears are direct replacements and new hoses aren't really needed as the fitting is the same as standard corrado calipers

Congrats Mic, glad if was nothing more serious. :thumbleft:

These are the correct ones, although you don't need conversion hoses for the rear - just the fronts as the fittings are exactly the same.

Holy thread revival! The ones on heritage are the wrong part (might just be wrong for vr6). Obsolete for Corrado from VW, however Passat ones are exactly the same. There was a thread listing the part number if you do a search mate

Let the glue become almost dry before you do as it'll seep through otherwise and form a crusty mess.

Not sizes but mountings are slightly different between early (pre 93) and late (93 on).

Unfortunately not. They usually read over rather than under, but there is no adjustment

Think you just need a Throttle body adapter plate for it to fit? Pretty sure it'll work perfectly fine other than that. I'm sure someone will have fitted one in the past......

Find that hard to believe! Lol

35, had the current one for 4 years

Welcome to the forum. It's a bit high in my opinion, but without knowing exactly what previous work has been done it's hard to say. Dealer prices are obviously going to be high, but it's maybe a 5-6k car privately. Have a look in the wiki section at the buyers guide. Print it out and if the car is relatively local, take it with you and have a good look over the car and paperwork. Best of luck with your search.

Combat Systems Engineer. It gives me the advantage of being handy with electronics/electrics, but as mentioned its just nuts and bolts. I started out tinkering with cars on a Mk3 Golf I bought really cheap. Its grown from there really and I'd recommend to anyone interested in getting hands on to buy something for a couple of hundred quid, get a Haynes manual and get busy. If you cock it up you won't have broken the bank trying! You'll accumulate tools over time and you'll become more confident in tackling the more technical jobs too. :thumbleft:

Excellent, just in time for pay day! Thanks Anna!

Not after changing all those, I wouldn't recommend running with temps that high. I think 146 is the upper limit it'll show too so could be even higher!

I have heard about the battery being shorted killing the ECU. Fingers crossed for you it hasn't done that, but I'd certainly check fuses too mate