dinkus
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Everything posted by dinkus
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What a load of gash. "Why yes, I'd love to blast fluid into all of the electrics in my car and pay a huge amount of money for it too" :roll: :lol: @ the dodgy soundtrack and the phone going off half way through
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No can tell from looking at that pic. If you roll it on it's back have a look for the sockets underneath. If they're pukka Corrado Recaros, they'll have 4-way electric adjustment. This has a basic 2-pin plug underneath. If they're heated as well, there will be a second, 4-pin plug underneath for the heater elements. No plug, no heat. :) Bear in mind you'll also need the loom, hideously expensive relays and switches to power them...
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There's also the Corrado Club of America... have a google and ye shall find. No idea if they've got a forum and/or how busy it is though...
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Just added the pumps section :lol: And yup, if the wiki would let us edit it at the moment :( (it's on the to-do list)
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Got me some neoprene pads and contact adhesive from Audioscape... as well as some Skinz wave-diffuser for not very much dosh. So I'll see what fits 8)
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Correction to above... figured I'd call them again to see what the situation is... and spoke to James. He's still there, top bloke as ever and is still selling all the garb you need. They're just not doing installs any more 8)
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...but they're out of stock and it's way cheaper to buy it from here http://www.reddiseals.com/acatalog/glaz ... .html#a881 ;) Edit: Hmm, and shipping is a rather silly £9, so maybe not. Gah.
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Yeah, but James is never there any more... :( Edit: Hah, but their website seems to have sprung back to life and this is what I'm after... http://audioscape-essentials.co.uk/inde ... ucts_id=73
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Hmm, sounds like waterproof gaffer tape it is. I've got some really nice rubbery double-sided stuff holding the membranes in on the old C, again nice stuff from Audioscape that I've got no idea where to find...
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Hmm, so you've taken all the sound deadening out completely? :lol: I'm only going to be putting a single layer of Damplifier on the outer-skin and then covering with some lightweight foam. It should actually be a bit lighter than the Skinz stuff that's in the doors of the old C and they're not too heavy. You had about 3 layers all over the shop in yours though, so can understand why you wanted rid! :lol: Shame James has lost the love though - I'd have bought all my stuff from him otherwise... ho hum, will have to see if I can find it elsewhere. I also need to find some stuff to clean the doors up with first. I guess like you, I used the thinners stuff James had last time...
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I've just ordered me some Second Skin Damplifier that's going to be stuck to the outer door-skin. I went for that rather than the Pro, as it's lighter and I really don't want to put too much weight into the doors. I'll also be re-membraning the door with the new-style foam stuff. However, I want to also get a layer of foam attached to the outer skin. I was thinking of using Second Skin Overkill, but it's not self-adhesive and that means it'll probably be a pain to get attached to the door. I know Mr. Cheesewire's got some form of sticky-backed foam in his doors... can anybody suggest where I can get some from?
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So I'm going to be fitting some Audioscape love to my new C and would like to re-membrane the doors. The new foam stuff sounds like it's better for sound absorption and will make it a bit tidier to get everything in. Problem is, what's the best way to attach it? Waterproof gaffer tape is sounding favourite at the moment...any other/better suggestions?
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VR Timing Chains Replace at mileage or on condition? Discuss
dinkus replied to Yandards's topic in Engine Bay
Ouch :( The older VRs tend to make a clattery piston-slap type noise when starting from cold (sounds bit like a diesel engine) - there's nothing you can really do about it, but it will go away when the engine's warmed up. The tappets are also hydraulic (i.e. filled with oil), so old ones can take a while to properly fill up and thus rattle, or they could also not be filling quickly due to old oil and/or oil pump... :lol: Paranoid much yet? :D -
VR Timing Chains Replace at mileage or on condition? Discuss
dinkus replied to Yandards's topic in Engine Bay
Ahh interesting to know. That's just going to bring on even more paranoia now...better get the bits orderd up for mine then :lol: -
VR Timing Chains Replace at mileage or on condition? Discuss
dinkus replied to Yandards's topic in Engine Bay
Ah, I lied, it's a sound clip, not a video but you get the idea. Generally it's a pretty tappety engine (what you hear for the first 8 seconds... Then as the revs start to pick up at 8 seconds in, you can hear the chain rattle. Once the revs go up higher, the chain noise disappears and it's just VR lumpiness again until he lifts off... -
Good stuff, amended the original post with this 8) I much prefer my suction friend to have some curves too :norty: :lol:
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Oh yeah, nothing like a nice bit of suction ;) I've no idea what the difference is between the bottom two, other than the part number :lol: Either way, they're all around the £70 mark, which is considerably cheaper (not to mention quieter and lighter) than buying the standard fan setup from VAG for a couple of hundred quid!
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Just for anal-retentiveness and/or completeness... Do you know which 11" fan you have on your VR? There seem to be three differen 11" (280mm) Spal fans available.. SPAL Ref: SPAL Code: Dia. Depth Air Flow Current Airflow VA09-AP8/C-54A 3010.0318 280 mm 52 mm 1500 m3/hr 6.9 Amps Suction VA03-AP70/LL-37A 3010.2054 280 mm 94 mm 2350 m3/hr 12.5 Amps Suction VA04-AP70/LL-37A 3010.2076 280 mm 94 mm 2350 m3/hr 12.5 Amps Suction
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VR Timing Chains Replace at mileage or on condition? Discuss
dinkus replied to Yandards's topic in Engine Bay
Chains make a sort of marble in a can rattling noise mostly. If it makes any sense, it's more of a clatter than a chatter? :lol: It's generally most pronounced at 1500rpm or so when the chains are under relatively low-load. A lot of the noise seems to come from the tappets that make a sort of "chatter chatter chatter" type noise...or uh indeed a tappet tappet tappet type noise :lol: I've got a little video floating about at home that someone posted up aaaages ago of their seriously badly worn chains. Will dig it out and post it up this evening. But as the cheesewire says, best to take a shuftie first. -
I'd say that yes, fuel prices are affecting what people do on a daily basis and their choice of car. To some extent, it's a good thing as it makes you think a bit more about how much fuel you're using and pollution you're generating... but there's a limit. Some discomfort for using a thirsty car is a good thing, making fuel so cripplingly expensive that you can't afford to drive the car you want/need is not. Particularly when the alternatives to driving are inadequete, expensive and crap. Similarly, the government seems to be pushing better fuel economy, but nobody seems to be taking into account that old cars need to be disposed of. There's also nobody thinking about all of the energy needed and pollution produced from making a new car. Ho hum, I live next door to work, so walk each day. Sure the VR's thirsty, but I only ever use it for fun, so I don't really care that it's £80 to fill the tank.
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Thanks for the info Mr. Cheesewire. That info about the after-run does make a bit more sense. I couldn't work out how it was going to work otherwise. I'll update the main thread now...
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How hot was the water? Is the aux water pump shagged? (quite a few are and they're not cheap to replace). If it's not getting stupidly hot, then I wouldn't lose sleep over it. No, you'll die in a firey death immediately. :lol: Course it is. It might not cool quite as well, but nowt major. It just cost you more to fill up. The G12+ is anti-freeze/anti-corrosion solution and hasn't got quite as good thermal absorption qualities as water, but there's not much in it.
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Er... 6 pics?
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Hence why I said you have to get to it via the second link ;) Removed the first link to avoid confusion though.
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So I've split this off into a new thread so it's a bit more obvious :)
