dinkus

Yeah, worth a check too, you've got a fair bit more juice flowing around the system when it's on full-chat, so less likely to find an iffy coilpack or lead. Give them a check over to see if there's anything obvious and/or douse the whole freakin' lot in WD40 - it'll get any moisture out of the cracks and probably run ok. Other give-away for electrical issues - does it only happen/get worse when it's wet/damp out? If so, it's usually cacky electrics.

The callipers themselves are a bolt-on replacement, but you need Mk2->Mk4 conversion hoses. Goodridge make some nice braided ones, which seems to be the best option.

Next purchase is going to be, PCV valve which has broken and think that might be causing the stalling (breather open to atmosphere at the moment so engine losing pressure??) and some leads, oil, filters etc to give it a good service.... You'll have to wait and see what the next BIG purchase is after Christmas! :wink: The engine doesn't lose pressure if the PCV is split, but it will suck in more air than it's supposed to and run a bit lean. I don't think it'll cause stalling though.

What was the corrective work you/they did Jim? If it involved a wheel/brakes coming off then it was probably the ABS cage that got a knock and needs re-seating/bending/replacing. Similary, maybe they unplugged an ABS sensor - check they're all still plugged in. It's probably a pretty quick and easy fix, especially if you've got VAG-COM to hand.

Yars, I guess so... should the stickies of recommended alarm fitters also be moved then? :)

I think they could well be, but either way they look like they've been re-trimmed.

That's some sucky news about the old girl :( Yay for getting a new Corrado though! :cheers: :lol: Generally speaking, the alarm fitter plays a much bigger part in the alarm than the actual alarm system itself. They all have to meet the same category ratings, but any alarm will be crap if it's fitted by a chimp. There might be something of use in here though - viewtopic.php?p=776933#p776933

I believe thems be the Brembos off aforementioned vehicle.

Damplified one door, got the wiring in and about halfway through making up a new membrane when it got dark and I realised it was 9:30 :lol:

Hmmm, Auto Express... pinch large salt of.

Having said all that - I'd get a plastic bag or somesuch over the relays to keep most of the moisture out. They will corrode and die much quicker if you don't.

Who let you on here? :lol: That place is just down the road too, hmmm... wonder if there's a sign :lol:

Ahh, fair dos. Mind you, going out for a spin in Kev's turbo VR beastie will make you pretty emotional :lol: I'd take a change of undercrackers if you do though!

Yars, despite the VR6 username, Kaiser has only ze valver, so Mr. Beigie boy's suggestions are the only right ones. You canne get 288s and 312s on the 4-stud hubs of the valvers.

Ah you know you need to sell the :camp: van :lol: Doooooooooo it :D If you're in any doubt, come along to one/some of the shows and see what you're missing... if you ask nicely, people will probably take you out for a spin too ;)

Good stuff :)

Is it printed on both sides? I like the idea of the Corrado outline jobber at the bottom then either THE Corrado Forum going up the flag, or corrado-forum.net If you can stick with that as the address, that'd be good as that's what all the stickers say :)

No idea where to get them from, but the badge thingies are called Plaketten.

Yup, you can also get them a bit cheaper from Euro Car Parts.

Erm, metal on metal is too late is you've probably just junked the disks as well. Best bet is definitely to take a look - there's 3mm or so backing plate and the rest is pad. There's usually around 10-12mm of pad when they're new. When you've got none left, replace the pads. If the disk is getting very corroded and/or you've got a big lip around the edge, then it's probably time to replace the disks as well. Bear in mind that the rear wheel bearings are pressed into the brake disks, so you'll also need new bearings with the disks.

It's definitely an interesting idea, especially if it's a bolt-off, bolt-on type swap. Is there much angle-grinder/machining involved? How much do the parts cost? What are the part numbers? I'd definitely be game, price-permitting...

If it only does it in the wet, then it's 99% likely to be electrical related. Don't really know anything about the valvers, but I'd be checking all your spark plug leads and dizzy are good.

Scene tax? :lol:

Well I'm gonna put Damplifier on the outer-skin of the door, then some foam over the top of it. Then use the foam-style membrane replacement and some Audioscape pods. Should just about do the trick 8) I don't really want to put any more sound deadening in than that, as it makes the door too heavy and the hinges start to sag :(

The seat will have part numbers starting with 535 if it's Corrado seats (or indeed any Corrado-specific parts)