dinkus

Aye, the price from Stealth for chains, tensioners and clutch is around £700, but the parts alone are cost around £300...

Not sure if it's much help, but worth noting the difference. If you've got new pads then they'll be shite for the first few miles - the pedal should feel solid, but they just won't bite. If you've got air in the system still, then the pedal will be spongey and it won't bite :( The best way is to make sure you never drain the resevoir, then you're not sucking any air into the system from that end of things. Not much use to you now, but you know for next time :lol: I I'd do with starting at the master cylinder and working your way around again though. If needs be, you can just keep going around until it's all bled. FYI - you should get about 12 full pumps before you drain the resevoir. Ooh err :lol:

So I just splashed out £5 and bought a copy of the installation manual from Abacus. It now doesn't (or at least hopefully won't!) go off in the middle of the night and it doesn't bleep every time I lock it 8)

Ok yes, sorry I should have been a little more specific. As long as you have an amp that can comfortably provide enough power to your speakers, then there's no point in spending silly money. Moving more air does just mean more volume. It usually follows that you'll get more bass too, but that's by no means a given. However, solid mounting points for the speakers helps to keep the sound clean (think of the noise difference it makes between having a sheet of tin foil that you wave around and a sheet of MDF - any extra wobbliness in your mountings distorts the sound and it doesn't sound as crisp). But yes, we're both right* :lol: *Obviously I'm more right

The two most important parts to any stereo are the pre-amps (i.e. stuff inside the head unit) and the speakers. In that order. As long as you don't buy cheap tat amps and wiring, then you'll be fine. That also doesn't mean you have to go out and spend stupid money on stuff either. I'd definitely go with DEL and say don't rush it, as you'll end up buying parts over and over and it gets very expensive, very quickly.

I believe the winter pack also included a pre-heater circuit by the oil breather. It's just a blank on our cars, but was fitted to cars sold in uber-cold climates (where 12 C aint all that cold... try more like -30).

Hmm, I guess the brand new one that's still in the shrink-wrap, along with all the attachment bits that I have is now worth at least 10x the original price... :lol:

I've got a (previously enjoyed) genuine original one you can have for £35 posted...

Hah cool. Loving those crazy tyres too :lol:

Aye, that's the beastie. is the one I helped make... and that was before the strapped a charger to it :lol: :cuckoo: Edit: Ahh yes I remember the cack camera mounting now... 's what happens when you let the boss do stuff :lol:

Cool. FYI the website addy is usually corrado-forum.net but that one works too. Been thinking for a while that it would be nice to get some plates that just say corrado-forum.net in the middle of them for shows. Bit like the cars all do in the banner. I did ask another place if they'd be able to do that, but they wouldn't... wonder if those guys would...hmm...

Word 8) :lol:

Exactly. You dont need really big brakes either. I still bet its really really quick. Mind-blowingly quick. There's a vid floating about somewhere of it eating everything in it's path round Bedford Aerodrome...

And a drinking age of 21, yet you're allowed to drive at 16...? :lol:

Ah good stuff and thanks for the donation :)

Yeah, it's based on the idea of bolting 2 bike engines into a V. Last time I saw it everything apart from the heads were custom, but not sure what it's like now. Either way, it's got a weird combination of a bike's "zing zing zing" type revving with the v8 warble.

The standard shelf will take the weight of the speakers, but it'll wobble about when they're on (put your hand on the shelf and you'll feel it moving). All of the movement of the shelf is lost movement of air and thus sound... A big solid MDF shelf won't move, so you'll get better sound/more bass...

The 2.9 VRs are sadly notorious for irregular bore wear on cylinders 1 and 6, so you get oval-shaped cylinders and the oil blows past the rings. Only real solution is to bore it out or swap the block :( So well worth checking that before you go forking out loadsa dosh on a rebuilt head.

Same article, new link http://the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php/G ... oil_change

I found a steering rack UJ in my garage the other week. Would you like it?

Find somewhere that has a proper 4-wheel laser alignment rig. It's the only way to get it done right. And as the doctor says - front camber should be -1.2[sup:33g90u1o]o[/sup:33g90u1o], so if you set it with a spirit level, it's gonna handle like crap :lol:

Hehe, good to see the RST-V8 finally make an appearance in a production (of sorts) car. Had the living poop scared out of me being driven around an airfield in that thing. There were some nice/mental videos of it we made too, but the old website seems to be gone :(

Are you sure it's not the actual trim panel on the boot itself? It's really thin flimsy plastic...

Incorrect.

TBH, you're much better making one out of MDF from scratch. Not only is it a shame to cut up a perfectly good standard shelf, but the shelf isn't really strong enough either. If you've got a nice rigid 18mm or so chunk of MDF there, it won't move at all and the 6x9s can convert their movement into air moving (which you can hear) rather than shelf wobbling (which you can't...apart from perhaps squeaking as it rattles about).