dinkus

Yup, nothing wrong with some 6x9s. My new C has got a tidily made shelf that looks completely standard from on-top, but has some whacking great 6x9s hanging underneath it :) Not sure what's in the doors/dash, but it's all powered off the head unit and doesn't sound tooo bad. Nowhere near as nice as the Audioscape setup in the other car, but significantly cheaper.

:lol: I'm not getting into that debate... mostly because I don't really care one way or the other enough :lol:

Hey what you do is up to you. It does look cool, but feel the safety issues should be pointed out so you can make a decision with that in mind.

8" isn't actually too bad... if you think about the fact that he previously had 6" x 9" speakers in the parcel shelf... And don't do the whole PC speaker thing. That's a monster headache that really isn't worth it.

The main problem with the standard door pods is they only allow you to fit a 5.25" speaker in there and they're not very rigid. As the good doctor says - to get bass you need bigger drivers. Sadly, 5.25" and no power isn't going to give you bass. The 6x9s you had before were quite a bit bigger and thus could provide a certain amount of bass and fill in the bottom-end reasonably well. The Lanzars really are just fill speakers from what I gather and should only really be used to give a bit more fill from the back of the car when you've got an otherwise well setup system. They're only 4x6 or somesuch, so really aren't a replacement for the 6x9s. MOSFET is mostly just sales bollocks, but MOSFET amps were quite a lot better quality than normal ones when they were first invented, but these days I think you'll struggle to find many that aren't and it makes very little difference. I always found that even when running Infinity 5000s in the normal front door pods, the head unit would start distorting before it could get much volume or specifically bass out of the speakers. To get some bass, you either need some kind of sub and amp arrangement (didn't you have an Infinity Basslink at some point in one of your cars?) and/or putting some bigger speakers in either the doors or the rear shelf. Wiring an amp in really isn't actually that difficult (see piccyture), it's just a pain in the backside running the wires under the carpet. Provided you've stuck suitably manly power cables in for the amp, you can always start with a cheap little amp and just swap it for a bigger one later on. It's also worth looking into sound deadening. If you buy big sheets of the stuff, it's really not that expensive (a £40 sheet of Skinz did the entire boot and under the rear bench of my C) and you can fit it yourself with just a Stanley knife, hot air gun and wallpaper roller. It's hard work, but it will noticably kill road noise and keep some of your music in. Hah - can you tell I'm bored at work? :lol:

I'd be reeeeally careful about getting a show cage for a number of reasons: 1 - It's a big chunk of steel near your head - you're likely to crack your head on it and either just hurt a bit, or if you're in a spin/accident - do yourself some serious damage (hence why all racing cages are wrapped in foam). 2 - They're rarely bolted in well enough, so in the event of an actual accident it'll come loose and hit/impale you/passenger/innocent bystander 3 - Even if they are bolted in correctly, they won't be of sufficiently strong steel to do much good in the event that you should roll the car and just make it harder for someone to cut you out (tip - if it's chrome plated, it's not the right spec steel). But stretched tyres are dangerous too and people do it, so up to you :)

Yeah, just don't box it into a tiny little space with no airflow, because it'll overheat. Wee PC case type fans or whatever will do the job to keep it cool.

:lol:

I got mine from http://www.riegeretc.com ages ago, but it looks like the site's now just a holding page. I did have a google for them a while ago and all I got was links to threads on here and Vortex :lol:

The late OBD2 2.8s were making as much power as the 2.9s did, but tbh if you've got a charger ramming air into it anyway I doubt you'd notice the difference...

Yeah but just typing "ham" into the search may not necessarily get you results relating to gear knob removal. Although if you do a topic search, it now will :lol:

Gah. I was hoping to be the first one to reply and was just going to put "Screw" :lol:

I've knocked the fuel pump relay loose before when fiddling with stuff down thar. just give all the relays a good push to make sure they're all seated properly. Also worth checking all the fuses are in place and haven't blown.

Both normal for early-spec European cars. I'm not entirley sure if that's standard height suspension they're running, but I think it was just the late VRs that were stupidly high. I know what the other one is, but only cos Yan told me :lol:

You can't get them from VAG any more I don't think, so you'll be wanting one from a breaker (sadly a bit unlikely as people will want to sell the seat complete). Otherwise daves16v makes stainless replacements :)

Oh flange. Well I didn't poke 12v up the blue/grey one, but I did poke 12v up the blue/white one. I hope I haven't popped the speed controller :(

So firstly - the black wire (in this case) is for illumination switching. Why/what and where is anybody's guess. But it can wait for now. However, I did manage to get the multimeter out and test the wires I've got... Red: 12v+ constant Brown: Ground Brown/red: Acc position only (i.e. off when the ignition is fully off and off when the ignition is fully on) Blue/white: Ignition fully-on only Blue/grey: Nothing ever, but looking at the wiring diagrams for the stereo, it looks like it's probably for the aerial amp, so actually gets fed by the head unit. Can any body explain why there is 1 wire for ACC and 1 for Ignition? Shirley that should all be on one wire? Is it going to do any damage wiring the two together (i.e. is the back-current going to cause issues further back in the loom?) At the moment, I seem to have the wire that is ACC-only live is in the pin that should have ignition live only and the pin that is actually ign-live only goes into a hole that the head unit has no use for.

Everything you could ever want to know http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27154 :) RW1 doesn't come on a huge amount, but he knows his stuff when it comes to VAG-COM :)

cheers :) Don't worry, just slap him. That's what we do :lol:

Heh I can just see him reading his email and saying "oh god, what a bunch of geeks. Glad I didn't buy one of them" :lol:

Heh yeah this is the problem with suspension. You think it's just a case of buying a lower set, but then you drive it and realise there's a whole world to springs and dampers lol. It's bizarre - I've got Konis and H&Rs on mine and even when you change the settings on the Konis it makes a world of difference to how it feels. Similarly, I had some Eibach springs with the Konis before and although it wasn't actually any harder, it felt so much crashier over bumps around town.

TBH somewhere in the region of 30-40mm seems to be the best for looks/ride height. If you go much lower then it looks very odd unless you've got huge wheels, which will then scrub and you're likely to grind the splitter into most slight deviations in the road surface too. Not to mention how stiff it'll be :( Edit: Also worth saying that depending on how saggy your suspension and/or top mounts are it may not actually make any difference to the ride height swapping between your old, standard suspension and all-new, lowered stuff. Annnd it takes a month or so for new suspension to settle down properly so it always looks a bit higher when you first put it on (maybe only 5mm or so, but it does noticably hunker down).

You really do get what you pay for with suspension. The springs are probably rock hard and it's going to ride terribly on standard length shocks because they'll keep bottoming out. You'd be much better off at looking at a set of decent lowering springs and shocks.

Ok, as we've confirmed it's one and the same wire, I'll lock this up to avoid confusion :lol: