dinkus

Yum yum, well guess what I'll be mostly buying this week :lol: Beats a new rack, which is what I was worried it might be!

Hmm, so new rods would come with both the rack-end knuckle and the wheel-end ball-joint? If so, sounds like what I need :)

I just took the C to get the tracking done and the very helpful and knowledgable guy at the workshop pointed out that there may be an issue with my rack (ooh err). I thought I'd run it by you guys to see if anyone can shed some light on it... Essentially, it feels like there's some horizontal/vertical movement on the rod that is joined to the steering rack on the driver's side. If you hold the inner boot where the track rod connects to the rack, you can feel the knuckle where they join. On the passenger side, if you twist the track rod, you can feel the rack-side bit of the knuckle twist, but stays put. On the driver's side, if you do the same thing, you can feel the rack-side of the knuckle jiggling up and down as it twists. The guy was a bit concerned about that and seemed to think that might not be good. Having said that, the boot on the wheel-end of the track rod was split and needs replacing. So do you guys think that it's related to the split boot on the wheel end, or is it something more sinister? Does yours do it? :)

Hee hee :D

Best do it now while you're young and free and don't need to be paying a mortgage! :lol: Heh, in fairness and on a slightly more serious note, as Andy says - there's no way it's gonna "just" cost £5k. I was looking at doing an R32 conversion... you can pick up an engine and gearbox for £1,500ish. Bargain. ..but then you add the custom ECU (£700), the custom driveshafts (£500), the custom exhaust manifold (£350), Custom gearbox mounts (£150), new engine mounts (£150), etc, etc and it soon added up to £5k. You might not need the same things to do the conversion you're on about, but it's easy to see how these "little" extras quickly add up to scary numbers. and that's not good when you're looking at borrowing the money in the first place :( Plus you'd have to take into account the money you'd get back from selling the C now.

The black plastic housing can often be a biatch to get off - you really do need a big mofo socket for it so you can get decent leverage on it. Make sure you clean out the housing and change the O-ring before re-fitting the filter. It's best to wipe a bit of fresh oil around the O-ring first to help it sit back into the housing. It's also obv a good idea to drain the oil first and re-fill with new after - 5.5 litres should do it.

Doooooooo it! :D

That looks pretty mental!!! :lol: :cuckoo:

Dutch has got one too, so it'd be good to compile a definitive list... preferrably in the next week or two, so I can get my bits ordered :lol:

Right, so we were thinking that it'd be useful to compile a definitive list of trim bits you might need after having a full respray, along with their Corrado-tax prices. So here's what I've got so far... (excuse the formatting) [code:t7uahe5d]Qty Part number colour option approx price Description from ETKA Helpful extra info 2 535 837 911 A

Yeah, it'd be good if you could post it up along with some more helpful comments/descriptions than ETKA gives you. I've got a similar list with approx. prices on that I can start off with. Then I can make sure I've got a complete set :) Edit: Started a post here... viewtopic.php?f=3&t=65074

Is this an old pic? I'd swear it has a 16v G60 badge on now.[/quote:3ifnkokr] As the post was made in 2004, I'd wager so, yes ;)

What engine have you got? :)

I think it was just on the VRs that the Millteks had issues, but either way - holy thread ressurections Batman :shock: :lol:

Lady at work ordered one last night... should be arriving on 1st March :)

Hmm, it rhymes with up it and begins with M ;) :lol:

The oil pressure beeper is actually inside the gauge pod, so wouldn't ever come out of the speakers and it's accompanied by the flashing light which you also don't have. So in that case - if you're sure it's coming from the speakers, then it's gotta be coming from the head unit...

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=64990 any good?

Mmm gold :? :lol: But yeah, there's no reason you can't run 205/40s, as long as you're aware that it'll put your speedo out by a few %

They look exactly like the ones you get on Corrado Recaros and cost that much from the dealer...

Are you sure it's coming from your speakers, or from the gauges on the dashboard? If it's the low oil pressure warning, you'll have a flashing red light on the dashboard and a loud "BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP..." As far as I know, that's the only thing that makes any kind of beeping noise in Corrado as standard, unless it's an alarm type thing. If you've got a gauge and it's reading ok oil pressure, then it could well be that one of the two oil pressure sensors has died and needs replacing. It's not a big job - they're about £6 each I think.

:lol: :lol: :lol: Dinkus - did you get the back of the wheels tidyed up in the end. I remember them being a lil flakey. But yeah, on closer inspection it wasn't just that one wheel that was flaking, there were bubbles under the paint on a couple of the others as well, so I just got all of them refurbed. I'm impressed though - they used the the correct Compomotive paint to get them exactly the same colours as they would have been new and they even fitted the fancy metal Compomotive valves to them too. All for £160. Bargain.

:lol: Cheek :D

Hehe - I just realised... my thread's now almost 1/10th as long as Kevs! :lol:

Hehe, won't be any problems with that - the camera will be accompanying me to pick it up. They said they're not going to strip a lot of the interior out, but I think I'm going to do it anyway, then I can get some more sound deadening in there and give the carpets a damned good clean too. Was debating trying to fit climatronic at the same time, but I think I'm going to be skint after this anyway, so won't be able to afford the extra bits I need. We shall see though...