dinkus

Hehe says the guy with a picture of him pulling a wheelie on a public road as his avatar ;) :lol:

Gotta love the standard brakes and Bacofoil air filter heat shield... :?

There's a thread on doing this on Vortex somewhere, but can't remember the link. It looks like you need to move the mounting point about 3" back on the crossmember in order to clear the output shafts. You then use a dutchdub or similar L-shape bracket to bolt the 'box to.

Erm, oversteer surely? ;)

As a rough guide, I've had a decent bodyshop in Newbury quote me £2k to do the respray. The problem is, that's plus any external trim bits... which quickly add up to another £1,200 - £1,500 depending on how crazy you get.

It might be damned close, but you might just fit 330s under there depending on the size of the calliper. In that close-up pic you can see the clearance on my 312s...

Hehe - Scott Mills was talking about this on his show yesterday. Apparently the guy they describe as "driver leaves with his £60 penalty ticket" looks like Scott Mills :lol: But to show the quality of The Sun reporting... anyone spot the mistake in that statement (pic 2 on the article)? :lol: And is there really nothing better to do in Manchester than to watch a Veyron get a parking ticket? The guy's got a Veyron, I'm sure he really doesn't care about a £60 parking ticket...

The Toyo Proxes seem pretty good, but Goodyear Eagle F1s are also good (expensive!), Uniroyal Rainsports are exceptional in the wet, but a bit noisy in the dry. I've got 16s but I just put the Proxes on after having Rainsports before. They seem alright and not mega bucks.

205/50/15 :) http://the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php/W ... nformation

Yeah, as Kippy says - it's fairly easy to do. Me and Yan did my rear ones a few weeks ago. I'd suggest the purchase of... Penetrating oil - WD40 will probably do, but PlusGas is far better if you can get hold of some. Squirt liberally and leave for 10 mins on ceased bolts.[/*:m:1f6aqkoa] Electrical contact cleaner/carb cleaner - good for cleaning bits up with.[/*:m:1f6aqkoa] Emery paper for cleaning up the pins if necessary and the sliders that the pads slide in[/*:m:1f6aqkoa] New disks & pads[/*:m:1f6aqkoa] Carrier pin refurb kits - includes the boots and the correct grease for re-greasing the pins[/*:m:1f6aqkoa] Copper slip for putting it all back togther. Get a smearing of it on the sliders and the backs of the pads to get everything moving freely and squeak free.[/*:m:1f6aqkoa] If you're feeling keen - calliper rebuild kits to replace the piston seals[/*:m:1f6aqkoa] Calliper paint to make it look all spangly after :)[/*:m:1f6aqkoa] Also - make sure you remember which pins come out of which holes. They're different shapes and need to go back in the same place that you took them out of :)

Personally, I'd just stop driving through the quarry...

If you've already got the Brembo callipers, you could make up a custom carrier for them to fit the 312mm VAG disks? The 312s are better than the 280s and will stop you, but you are going to have heat issues if you use them a lot and/or start doing track days. I think other than that AP is going to be the way to go, but you can do that on 4 or 5 stud. If it were me, I'd do the hub conversion anyway as 4 bolts aren't a lot to hold on the amount of torque you're going to be putting through them. Especially as they weren't designed for it. Then I'd run with the nice cheap 312mm option for starters and see how you get on. They'll be good enough for now and it then gives you time to decide/save up for some AP lovin' :) Whatever you do, make sure you go for braided hoses all round and 5.1 fluid. That way you're less likely to get brake fade. Most of brake fade is due to the rubber flexi pipes getting soft under the heat and stretching when you put your foot on the anchors. So if you've got braided hoses, they can't flex, so you get less fade. The rest of fade is the pads overheating and melting a bit...then they catch fire not long after :lol:

The ride height of the top one is definitely better. I reckon the bottom one's too low on those size wheels as the arch doesn't sit evenly around the wheel then. As far as rimmage goes, I'm loving the top one most too, but black is one of the few colours that you can get away with having black rims on, so it actually looks pretty good too.

If it happens all the time and is related to engine speed, then uh probably driveshaft/engine mount type related. If it happens all the time and gets worse with speed then it'd be something like wheel balance or tracking, but if you've had that done then it's probably not that (did you get a proper 4-wheel alignment with camber done on a laser rig, or just an ATS/Quik Fit job?). If it happens only when you're braking, then it's warped brake disks.

Get out. :lol: Buy an Iroc...dooooooooo it ;)

I'm with elephant which is again the cheapest place I've found for me by far. Plus my premium dropped by over £100 this year! Wooo!

I'm really no mechanical whizz, but I managed to take my spoiler out in an evening and do most of the dismantling, then re-greased it, re-assembled and re-fitted the next evening. So it's not too bad. You could do it of a Sat/Sun easy :)

The guide to cleaning it up isn't actually too hard to follow, but it is a right royal pain getting the mech in and out of the boot until you've got the hang of it. Don't grease the black plastic pipe bits though - it doesn't make any difference as they're actually a pretty loose fit anyway and the grease will only attract dirt.

It's pure pr0n!!! Me want!! :norty:

Heh sorry man - I don't know enough to help, just thought it might help others if you said what engine it is. You might get a bit more attention if you edit your original post and change the title to something like "VR6 timing help please" though :)

Erm, surely oil pressure in bar and battery volts? :lol: Apparently the gauges themselves aren't too bad to install, but you need to swap one of the oil pressure sensors and run a wire to it.

I just had mine setup for -1.0 camber at the local place. Cos I asked them to. TBH it's all a matter of personal preference. If you do lots of motorway driving then having uber -ve camber will lunch the inside edges of your tyres. If you do lots of twisty back-road driving then less camber means you don't get such good turn-in. The factory setting is in the region of -1.5 to -1.6 But it is a range to be within spec and it's not a highly-strung race car on rock-hard suspension driving on a perfectly smooth race track. You're driving on a whole range of different surfaces in different weather conditions, different temperatures and different levels of heat in the tyres. 0.2 degree here or there might make a little bit of difference to your tyre wear over the course of a few thousand miles, but it's really not something worth losing sleep over.

No worries - I've already got someone on it ;) Thanks though :)

Yeah, my yokel stealers are about the same in £ as those are in €, but I've had a quote from GPC for all of those bits and the exchange rate is about right. Sadly not much cheaper though :(

Hmm, I feel a bout of getting someone else to do it coming on :D