dinkus

If it's a Mk4 R32 engine then it's a bargain, but I'd take what Storm say with a pinch of salt. They're knowledgable guys, but do have a tendancy to exaggerate quite a bit. If it's a Mk5 R32 engine, they're talking out of their backsides as it's FSI lump and needs a completely different ECU to run it, which doesn't yet exist apart from the factory VAG one.

Smart arse get back to Lectures... However US spec Belts... :? Obviously not that much of a smart arse cos he missed this bit on his Corrado Database link

I'm not sure I entirely understand the question, but... If you buy a Momo wheel you get the wheel and 6 bolts and a ring to attach it to a Momo boss. If you buy a boss you get the boss which attaches to the steering column and then to the wheel. If you buy both you should get the wheel and boss. If it doesn't ask you what car it's to fit then you won't be getting a boss as they're car specific.

I'm fairly sure you can screw around with the Emerald software offline, but no idea what it's like compared to the DTA stuff. Scruff runs Emerald on his Cossie engine and it seems to work really well with no reliability issues. I wouldn't call £700 cheap :lol: They are made by Dave Walker who seems to be the fountain of knowledge on ECUs and also seems to do the Emerald thing more for fun than anything else (whatever floats your boat I guess :lol: ) Scruff's got the 3 maps set up on his Dax, but they mostly control the boost - namely how much and how hard it kicks in. Map 1 is tippy toe, minimal boost cos it's wet and I don't want to die upside down in a hedge setting Map 2 is daily driver setting Map 3 is full-throttle shifting, maximum boost, light the tyres up and pop flames setting But there's little need or point on a N/A engine as it's either going to work or it's not...

I'm gonna have to go and double check all this tomorrow. If it is the illumination wire, then it sounds like I've got something else fubar :(

Isn't that the grey/blue wire from the list above (which may or may not be definitive)? I think it must be something to do with ignition live because the stereo turns off when you turn the igntion on... No spooning for you tonight.

Blimey - looks like a different car when it's clean! Very nice though 8)

Emerald is very good and gets around 270bhp I think.

I don't think you can adjust the castor, that's just what it should be.

Are you sure the mech isn't just frozen up?

The rear wheel bearings are pressed into the brake disks - so if you change the disks you have to change the bearings too. If you're in there, it's a good idea to check: The handbrake cable boots are still intact (be careful not to rip then when re-fitting them to the calliper) The handbrake cables are free-moving The handbrake mech on the calliper is free-moving The boots are good on the carrier pins are intact The carrier pins are free-moving The calliper piston seal isn't twisted and/or torn The calliper piston is free-moving The carrier faces that the brake pads slide along is rust-free, allowing the pads to slide freely. And obviously wop new disks and pads on while you're in there :)

I've never seen it first hand - but the gauge pod resetting itself either indicates gash wiring somewhere or that the gauges have been tampered with and possibly clocked. I'd check the wiring first though - get the pod out and see if any wires look suspect. You can take the whole pod apart fairly easily and check for any dodgy goings on in there too.

Most of it's from MOTs cos they have to log the mileage. Otherwise it's taken from the V5 info. I always fill it in when I buy cars because it's an extra bit of tracable history on the car.

This is the best description I've found so far: styles/prosilver/imageset/icon_post_target.gif Which would imply that it's ignition live. I'd also go with that description as the head unit comes on in ACC position, but goes off again when the igintion is full-on. Toadypoos - would you be able to look on the car the plugs came out of to see if you can trace the corresponding black wire and find out where it comes from?

So you want a price for a job, but don't want to talk anyone that can actually do the job? :lol:

Give MJ interiors a call?

Thusly. The black wire comes out of/goes into pin 5 on the plug.

Well I did wonder when you'd learned about car electrics :lol:

Er you whatnow? :lol:

That looks cool from every angle apart from the front, where it looks damned awful :( The bird on the stand is rather tasty though :norty:

Yeah, there's the whole red/yellow wire swaparoo, but that's on the bit of loom that goes from the car's ISO plugs to the head unit. At the moment I'm just repairing the loom in the car - so ignore anything that goes past the ISO plug to the head unit. Essentially, I've got 2 bits of loom. The plug-side has a black wire on it, the car-side doesn't and I dunno what to find in the car to connect to it.

Yum yum, but it's £56k for an Exige! Eep!

So I spent a couple of hours this morning soldering ISO plugs back onto the original car loom that some thieving pikey shite had lovingly hacked out at some stage. In hindsight, crimps would have been nicer but ho hum. Anyway, I have all the wires connected up apart from 1. The ISO plug I was given has a black wire coming out of the power-related plug, but I have no corresponding part of the car loom to wire it in to. If I plug the head unit in, it only turns on when the ignition is in acc position - if I turn it round to full-on the head unit turns back off again. From what I gather and indeed from what I've found on here - this black wire should be 12v switched ignition live... but I can't find any loose wires anywhere in the dash. Does anybody know where this wire usually comes from as it can't have just disappeared? Alternatively, can anyone suggest a good place to take a splice from for it?

You've got almost 10 degrees camber adjustment on the front struts - so there's a considerable amount of room :) It'll be miles out if you've lowered it because the points that connect to the strut were once parallel and are now at an angle relative to each other, so they will pull the top of the strut in.

Yeah, I've got all kinds of self adhesive and normal heat-shrink at my disposal from work :lol: Haven't seen those heatshring crimps though, but they'll definitely be making an outing on the loom. If you've made yours and it works, then post some diagrams and/or pics up. As long as you've not used super skinny wire that gets toasty hot then it'll be fine. I know what you mean about stuff getting wet though. I had one of those schitt spade type connector looms before and the number of times it'd just die because something had corroded and/or got water in it. Not fun.