dinkus

HID's a bit of a can of worms. I had a hids4u.co.uk bixenon set-up that was complete pants in the 'rado but much better in my mark 2, but even then the main beam was pretty lacking. My advice would be to find someone who's found a set-up that works well in the Corrado and get the same because based on my experience at least, our headlight design seems quite finnicky about what'll work with it. And watch out for glare issues, halogen reflectors aren't really designed to work with HIDs, the projectors in In Pro type lights are much better and will give you a better cut-off to avoid dazzling other drivers. There's loads of stuff on eBay, but it's hard to know what will work with a Corrado light unless you try it. IMO anyway :?[/quote:160onvw2] From what I've heard I'd agree with that. Chars for the link. There's so many flippin' uprated headlight loom threads going around at the moment I forget which is which :lol: Having spent the last 2 and a bit hours repairing my stereo loom (some bastid had hacked the stereo out at some stage, so needed to put a new bit of loom and plug in) I'm game to try a bit of headlight loom making. I'll be mostly using crimps though - soldering is a pain in the arse!

The yokel place near me charges £50, but it can be up to £70 for a full alignment.

So nit-picking argument on the inner workings of diffs and the pretty much non-existent traction control system on a Corrado aside... it's almost certainly the camber :lol: Take it to a place with a pukka laser alignment rig and they'll make it drive like new again :)

87. Sorry, but Mk2 roccos are ugly, common and pants. Mk1s are the sex (as are mk3's obviously). But it's worth about 40p to boot. Get another notch if you want a project. They're proper VWs...

Welcome aboard :) Depending on what you're looking for in a track car, I suspect a Corrado isn't the most sensible choice. Anything to do with bodywork is hideously expensive and they're not cheap cars to start with. Obviously they're far cooler than most track nails, but a 205 GTI or Mk1/Mk2 Goof are much better value for money to use as track nails. Strip 'em out, cage them, put race seats in, upgrade the brakes and you're pretty much set.

As I've just bought another Corrado I need another loom and making my own is sounding like the best bet. Have you got a link to the thread you're on about with supplier info?

As Toad said to me the other day - it's a cool looking beast, but it's a pretty English one. Finding any parts outside of the UK is going to be near-enough impossible, so it might be worth taking a trailer with spares to Africa with you...

It looks like someone's just bored out the hole in the standard pods to me. Not quite sure what the tweeter is doing there in the middle of the door though :lol:

Hehe as the other guys have said - I wouldn't worry about it too much - you've just joined a club of exclusivity 8) If you did want to see if you can find out if/when it was clocked, you can use the £5 RAC vehicle data checker on their website - http://www.rac.co.uk/web/vehiclechecks/status_checks/ It shows you all the history of the car - how many owners it's had, when it changed hands, what mileage it had at the time, what mileage it had at it's MOTs, if the number plate has been changed and if it's ever been reported stolen or written off.

TDI's in there too. If you type that in it comes out as "agricultural farm vehicle" :lol:

I do believe it's in a polystyrene block behind the driver's side rear door-card :)

If nothing has changed otherwise your 10bhp difference could be due to any/all/combination of: Creative rolling road figures (they fudge a number to come up with the crank bhp and they can fiddle it a bit) Tyre pressures (run them higher and you'll get better figures) Air temperature (the colder it is, the denser the air, thus the better the engine runs) The probelm is, the standard VR lump breathes pretty well anyway, so you have to do a fairly hefty amount of work to it in order to get more power. The Shrick VGI and some 268 cams will make a noticable difference to how it drives, extending your peak torque down to 3k rpm and up to 5k but it won't actually give you all that much more overall power (>50bhp) and set you back a good £1,200 if you buy second hand. But then do you want real-world drivability and grunt, or rolling road figures for the pub? :)

The chances of you getting the brake compensator off in one piece are slim to none. They corrode themselves on and the stupid allen-key headed bolts will most likely round off :(

I don't know what you guys are on about, he's got all the essentials there: Obsurdly over-sized wheels - check Spacers so long that the bearings will be destroyed in seconds - check Rusty roll cage - check Arch job worthy of a 12yr old - check Big canister in the back - check What more could you want? I wonder... if (and bear with me here) he had ever managed to get that finished and running - how long do you reckon the hubs would have lasted bouncing up and down on air ride and 4" spacers (that's 10cm folks!) :lol:

Booga me! :shock:

You should get 10% from Sheppards in Stortford - really nice guys to deal with. Don't go to Vindis, they're tight bastids and really don't care. The switches get warm because the full current of the headlights flows through the switch. If you've got uprated bulbs in and no uprated loom, you'll make the switch even hotter. It's this heat that makes them brittle over time and eventually snap. If you do have an uprated headlight loom, there should be minimal current flowing through the switch, so it won't get warm and thus should last much longer. Plus your lights will be brighter as you'll be getting the full-on 12-13v through the lights rather than wasting a load of it on heating up the standard loom.

Ah that's a very cool story! Congratulations on the new baby :lol:

Hehe awesome 8) Every time my boss sees me with mine he starts waxing lyrical about the valver he had back in the day and how much he loved it :lol:

Ah cool - good to know Kev 8) And erm... magnetic bugs. Yes, that's it :lol:

My local Lidl have got those metal magnetic dish things on sale for £1.99 as of Monday 18th Feb, just thought I should share :)

Yup, another vote for BJV here! Be warned - if you're planning on driving up there best not take a lowered C - you'll scrape getting onto their drive way :lol: *cough* http://www.wheelrefurbishing.co.uk/pricelist.htm

I'd agree with carpy on the replacing it bit. Thing is, taking the grub screws out of the posts just lets you take the actual spoiler off, it won't show you what's going on inside the mech. I guess it would confirm your theory that it's loose inside though.

That could well be the case. The plastic tubes you see on the outside are clipped around the cables that move up and down. Could be that's snapped off inside, but the only way to fix it is a new plastic tube and take the whole mech apart...

See, I'm really of the opinion that driving is not a right, it's a skill you have to earn. It shouldn't be expensive to drive, but you should have to take regular re-tests (every 5yrs or so) to keep your license. You should have to do a minimum number of hours driving before you're allowed to pass your test and you should have to do Pass Plus to prove you can drive on a motorway and at night too. Then that's just me...

Chris VRS N.o.s. seems to know a lot about nitrous (not sure the exact spelling of his screen name)