dinkus

Oi, cheeky. I might not be posting much at the mo, but I do lurk :)

ROFL... and I thought it was only me that did that :lol:

I give my hole hearted approval to this thread.

Sorry to see that man :( VW can charge so much for the body panels partly because they were made in relatively small numbers, but also becuase it's usually insurers that are buying them. Whatever happens though, you're going to have to pay the £300 excess to get the Ka fixed. If your car's valued at £3,500 and the new parts alone are going to cost £1,754 then they'll say they want to write it off. However, if they're going down the route of letting you get quotes, you should find a good local bodyshop and get them to do you a quote assuming that you either supply the parts or the parts are second hand. That will come to significantly less, so the insurance company will be happy to pay for it. Only problem is then getting hold of the parts, but hey that's what the forum's for ;) :)

205/45/16 is the closest match to the standard VR Speedlines which ran 205/50/15 tyres, because your maths is a little wrong. You need to compare like with like. Your maths was using the full diameter of the wheel, but only the sidewall of the tyre once. If you look at the tyre and wheel as a whole, you need to include the tyre sidewall twice (once at the top of the wheel and again at the bottom). When you do that, the maths work out that the 205/45/16 is 0.84% bigger than the 205/50/15 and the 205/40/16 is 2.66% smaller. The calculator on the tyre bible site (linked from the wiki article) will help you out :)

There is a term to describe this sort of thing - Dinkus I take objection to that. At least I was going around a corner at the time... :lol: ;)

Yeah, but the problem is finding cream leather...

VR6's beastie is Aqua Blue with cream leather...

I'm waaaaaaay into the last category :(

Oh man, that's crappy - I hope you got the bastid that did it?

Before you adjust it too much, I'd leave it a week or two to settle first as the springs will settle a noticable amount.

PSI definitely do the whole shebang and did Stan 24v's car. They can source all the bits for you but it's considerably more than £3k to get it done.

The buying guide should give you answers to most of those questions - http://the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php/T ... _Checklist :)

If it's drinking anything less than 1litre of oil every thousand miles, then ignore it. Otherwise I'd suspect that it was a valve stem oil seal that got replaced previously - it would explain the tappet noise that I'd guess is also an easier job than the other 2 options... Worn piston rings could be causing smoke too and to fix that you have to take the entire engine apart to get the piston out, replace the rings and put it all back together again. The last option is worn cylinders, which is not un-common on high-mileage VRs - essentially the pistons wear to a slightly oval shape, so you don't get a good seal between the piston, rings and cylinder. If that's the case, it's new-block time. So take the engine entirely apart, replace the block, rebuild it from scratch (or more likely just get another engine). So none of them are pleasant options, but as I said - anything less than 1litre of fuel every 1000 miles don't worry about.

It intrigues me too - I'm not sure how much of it is variables in the sensors, corrosion in the system, dying pumps, coolant to water ratio or combinations thereof. This time of year, my water temp sits at 85-90 during normal driving, which is bang in the middle of the temp gauge, so must be about right. If I'm sitting in traffic it climbs up to 100 but never goes higher than 105 and floats around 100-105 as the fans come on and off. I don't think I've ever seen my oil over 118 and that was a hard run in Germany down the autobahn.

That brings back memories of when I bent my last Corrado. That really shook me up and I just hit a wooden post and walked away unscratched. If someone had been following me or coming the other way then it could very easily have ended up in exactly the same way that PH post did. I never push my car all that hard on the road, especially when I can't see what's up ahead. The memory of that crunch when I hit the post and looking at how close I got to losing my feet is always there in the back of my head...

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=62513 :cheers:

...and the back lighter so a bit more prone for hedge/ditch action if you're not careful...

Poll corrected to include the required ham option. Deviant is gay.

Mine's a smidge lower at the front to the back, but evens out with a full tank of fuel. Could be to do with the top mounts - have you got the same style of ones all-round (as in, all early or all late?)

I think you'll find it's "dodginess"...

I'd take a look around the for-sale ads on here, but aslo http://www.autotrader.co.uk and http://www.pistonheads.com should give you an idea of actual value. The book price for Corrados is usually pretty far off what they're actually worth.

What's an Im? ;)

I quite like the Magnex on mine - it's nice and quiet when you're just pootling around town/trying to be quiet late at night, but growls nicely when you give it some beans. So it's the best of both worlds in my mind, especially as you can cruise on the motorway without the exhaust going BWAAAAAAAAAAAAAA the whole time.

I'll try and patch together the bits of info I've picked up from numerous Vortex and Club GTI posts to put together a definitive guide for the Corrado. Latest bits of info I've found out are about chaging the actual shifter in the car and what bits you need to swap to get it to fit. Still not 100% sure how much welding's involved, but if I've read what I've found correctly then hopefully none or very little (just welding a new bracked to the underside of the tunnel). Also the Dutchdub "buy the 02M mount and bolt it in" thing sounds like a partial story to... you buy the Dutchdub bracket, hack off the existing mount from the chassis leg, attach Dutchdub bracket to gbox, attach mount to bracket to see where it needs to be re-welded to the chassis leg.