dinkus

Yup - they're about £100 IIRC :(

Aye - that would make more sense as it's only a skinny pipe...?

The smell will stop because the fuel line will empty itself and doesn't get re-pressurised until you start the igntion again. I'm fairly sure the fuel hose is a chunky bit of rubber pipe, but I may be wrong. Either way, you want to get the whole pipe replaced from the fuel filter to the engine bay.

You're also going to need a power supply to the powered sub or the amp (something hefty like 4 gauge cable from the battery to the amp, then from the amp to a sturdy point on the chassis to earth it). Lastly, you'll need a small wire from the head unit to the amp or powered sub to turn it on or off when the head unit turns on or off. You'll usually get an extra wire on car stereo RCA kits or leads specifically for this purpose. I'd also have a look in the head unit manual - it usually has diagrams showing you how to wire a sub up :)

The paint Karmann used in the factory is very hard wearing, but the actual finish isn't all that great (they all seem to have slight rippling on the rear quarters). If you pay for a top-notch respray you should get a mirror-perfect finish on the whole car and it'll last for another 15yrs, if you pay for a cheap job it'll probably look about the same as the factory job and start peeling off in a few years.

£16ish a pop new according to ETKA, so a rather eye-watering £192 for a complete set! :shock:

*snigger*

Open driver's door Pull bonnet release Unlatch bonnet Prop bonnet Use Mk1 eyeball to locate suitable mounting space :lol:

If only all AA mechanics looked like that :(

That looks like a much better idea... :)

It begins with e and ends with bay?

'tis true - the default to search for posts rather than topics drives me nuts - best to go into the Advanced Search and change it to give you a much more manageable list of results.

There's not a lot of room around the VR6 in the engine bay, so it is a little harder to get to some of the coolant pipes and/or sensors to change them than it is on say my Mk3 2.0 8v (which was amazingly easy to work on). The G60's are a bit tight around the charger area, but never had to do any work on one. As everyone else has said tho - they're not too bad to work on as long as you don't mind losing the skin on your knuckles every now and then :lol: However, a lot of big stuff is actually easier to change on Corrados than it is on other cars as you can take the front bumper off. That gives you access to the entire front of the engine and radiator etc without needing to take the whole engine out.

Search is your friend - viewtopic.php?p=372235#p372235 Edit: and according to ETKA they're still available for the same horrific price...

If you're lowering it more than 40mm your shocks will probably bottom out all the time. If you're lowering less then they'll only bottom out most of the time. Seriously though - getting suspension right is finding a combination of spring and shock to make sure you get the right stiffness, return rate and damping. There's a reason the Corrado got such rave reviews for it's handling when it first came out and a similar reason why good suspension is expensive. If you just want the car to look lower, you can put lowering springs on standard shocks, but it'll give you a hard, bouncy ride because the springs aren't matched to the shocks. Similarly, it'll probably kill your shocks fairly quickly too. Personally, I'd save the money until you can afford a decent set of springs and shocks, or coilovers.

I've read similar things before, but I just wet myself laughing :lol: As my kit-car building friend says "if in doubt, only start with the medium sized hammer"...

You can get ones that go on the same panel as the cigarette lighter...

You might get them slightly cheaper, but I wouldn't have thought it'd be much. I believe http://www.mytyres.co.uk are based in Germany tho...

You really need uprated, shorter shocks to go with the lowering springs, otherwise the suspension's just going to bottom out all the time and you'll kill the shocks.

Yeah there wasn't an awful lot left of the shell after they rolled it :lol: They certainly got off a lot lighter with their full rally-spec shell than the guys did in the Viper that flipped head over heels. Can't say I've ever had the urge to do the Gumball, it does look like it's a bunch of twonks that partake...

You think that's lucky - you obviously haven't seen the footage of them rolling it at 150mph+ in the Gumball a couple of years back...

If you've got a computerised MOT (probably have if it's been MOT'd this year - it's a computer print out rather than the olde hand-written jobs) then you can buy road tax online. Just be aware that if the car has been previously SORN'd then if you buy tax online it'll back-date it to be start of the current month. So buy the tax after 1st Oct.

The search is the font of all knowledge :) viewtopic.php?t=50080

I have never seen or heard or anyone doing that when setting up wheel alignment though.. The holes are slightly bigger than they need to be, so it is possible to rotate the whole rear axle by a smidge - it was done on my C as it had managed to twist itself around a bit. Wheel fitting places are generally run by monkies, but you do get the occasional place and person that know what they're doing. Most bodyshops will either have, or know where does have a good 4-wheel alignment rig as they need to do them fairly regularly when repairing cars. And as the good Dr. says - they have taken the piss a bit on the charges, but no need to go mad at them - it'll never get you anywhere. However, as they have charged so much for the job, I'd politely tell them that the handling still doesn't seem to be as it should and could they please re-check their work. If they then get arsey you could point out that they've charged a considerable amount of money for the work, so you expect the job to be done properly.

Agreed - I'm gonna have a chat with Matt to work out an approx price and I'll start a thread up.