davidwort

might just be the very cold temps (and so high resistances) in the wiring and connectors, I get the odd funny flicker from the dash in cold temps, but the header tank and sender and the rest of the cooling system is fine. If you have needed to add water/coolant, then it's going somewhere! Lets hope you did have enough strength of antifreeze to protect the engine though.

I have to agree with Jim and supercharged on this one, although I have a front VT mount and a febi rear (basically identical to a VAG one, I've compared a whole bunch side-by-side) there is more vibration from just a front VT mount. I like the reduced engine movement, particularly for high rev gear changes, but there is a trade off. I did notice that on the rolling road, even with fairly gentle gear changes, the engine still rocks a fair bit on new standard rear mounts and a front VT, but that rocking is cushioning a lot of forces that the subframe and shell would have to take the strain of and I've seen a fair few sheared front engine mount brackets to know why mounts are designed with some movement in them. The worst thing I ever did was fit a stiffer rear main engine mount, it wasn't a VT one but a solid rubber GSF passat mount, it was terrible, as the mount sits in the subframe bolted beneath your feet, the whole car shook and rattled at idle and was only slightly better whilst driving. For a comfortable daily driver I'd agree with the above and say go for all OEM/FEBI. If you wan't some improvement on gearshift with some vibtation go for just a front VT. If you want very good changes but can live with vibration-white-finger and want to replace brackets/front cross member mountings from time to time then go solid front/all VT, but don't blame me when you snap a CV joint :lol:

easy enough job, just need to support the engine and lift it slightly to get the front mount out 2 bolts underneath and one on top I had a GSF mount that lasted for years but I'm not sure about their current part quality I'd fit a FEBI part minimum and preferably a genuine VAG one, although a vibratechnics mount won't be much more than a VAG one take your pick, about 30 quid to 150 quid - GSF, FEBI,VAG,VT

I've had a K-jet metering head stick when it's been dry for a while, did you actually lift the metering head flap when testing the fuel delivery to the injectors? should spray a lot of fuel, like nearly a litre a minute (all 4 added together) with the flap at full lift. does the plunger on the metering head move smoothly and with slight resistance when lifting the metering air flap by hand?

I was reading this yesterday and thinking what causes an engine to pink, top of the list (as said) is usually too much ignition advance or too low grade fuel for the compression ratio of the engine. Being a K-jet KR engine there is no knock sensing, and the KR engines aren't that prone to the heads coking up as they run pretty lean and hot usually, so... Are you sure that the ignition timing was correct? Did you take it from the flywheel or timing pulley mark, as the latter can be inaccurate if pulleys are slightly damaged. I guess it's possible that the exhaust cam woodruff key/keyway is damaged and distorted and the same is true of the main crank timing belt pulley. Either of these would put your timing mark out. Ideally you want a dial gauge down the no. 1 cylinder to confirm TDC, but you can do this to within a tooth on the cambelt by a basic check with a wooden dowel or a bit of welding rod. 16v engines do sometimes jump a tooth on the timing belt if badly set up, either following a cambelt change or from a sha99ed/badly adjusted belt. I'd have thought it less likely that the fuelling is the problem, but I suppose even if it's set to 1-2 % CO at idle it could still be running way too lean on the road. A rolling road session (50-70 quid for an hour) may be the most effective way of diagnosing this, but plugs should tell you most of what is going on. You can check most of the ignition/fuelling sytem out at home with fairly basic tools, fuel delivery rate from pump, spray pattern of injectors at part an full throttle, all the mechanical engine timing and providing that all checks out then the ignition timing as you said you have done. If it's happening on all cylinders then I'd tend to think it was ignition/engine timing related, but if it's only on one or two then it could be a mechanical issue of some kind. If the engine has been running too lean for a long time then a hot point in the combustion chamber could have developed and be triggering the pinking, this could be a badly worn plug in which case it would be pretty obvious on inspection. Alternatively, if the engine has been running too rich for too long (sooty/oily plugs) then carbon build up could be causing the pinking. This might also occur if the engine burns a lot of oil. Plugs are a good indicator of what's going on in there, but if you can borrow a boroscope or have one of those mini LED lit pc cameras on a flexi rod you could look inside the chambers without taking the head off. Other things to check are the cooling system as a problem here (blockage etc..) could cause the head to get too hot and tend to pink. apologies for the rambling, hopefully there's something of use there :)

might just be dodgy contacts, mine was showing -40 (same as it does when the sensor is totally disconnected) until I undid the connector block, cleaned the pins and put it back together.

Not really... Stealth reckon most conversions are over 100 hours or work to do to a proper factory standard. totally agree, everyone I've spoken to who've done tidy 1.8T conversions, even using their own labour, has spent far more than they initially budgeted for, even if you have a complete intact donor car to cannabalise there's always unexpected parts to replace. It's not unusual for people to mention figures approaching 6 or 7 grand and most people attempting to sell cars on make a loss even if they are asking 5 or 6 grand or more for their cars. I'm not saying you can't do it on a tight budget, but if you want a tidy, reliable job and tight running gear that can take the increased power and torque it's a flase economy to skimp.

I wouldn't put anything on your disks even if you don't intentionally put stuff on the pad swept surface as you could potentially contaminate the pads and affect your braking.

in my experience the cheap versions of headlights that GSF etc sell are crap, very poor beam pattern, I'd imagine the ECP ones are much the same.

Oh, is that what it is, thought you had a dodgy power steering pump eric :wink:

blinkin-flip that's like the opposite of some pics I've seen, it's like you only smashed in the bit of the car you were in, very lucky man indeed...

from searching for 'Corrado tools' viewtopic.php?f=1&t=70571&p=820047&hilit=corrado+tools#p820047

don't see why not, it's oil based anyway. revs should go up a bit if it sucks some in.

I'd just do (lighten) the flywheel, it's far heavier and a much larger diameter with real gains in low gears, I'd hate to deal with the results of an aftermarket alloy timing pulley cracking or the keyway going, but if it's bling your after...

oooooh, that's interesting (in a very anorak VW kind of way lol ) I know cars are often modified in all sort of ways for different markets but as that mesh is post-filter it can't be for 'dusty climates' really?

I think you can do it without removing either, ideally you'd want the car on a 2 post ramp to get to the rack end, but if you can remove the column end after you've taken the pinch bolt out then it should be possible to remove the rack end boot and unbolt it there too. PITA job though esp under the dash standing on your head.

PITA, you need to slacken several bolts, the long pivot one that the PAS pump bracket dangles off the water pump cover bracket, then two hidden 13mm bolts inside the alloy braket attached to the block and then the adjustment bolt itself, somewhere I put up a few pics with the bolt locations arrowed.

unlikely to cause a problem whilst driving, but I'd do the ignition switch if you haven't replaced it before. Only thing that's ever stopped me is the fuel tank sender, still reading 1/4 tank when I ran out :lol:

yep, should be able to, the voltage regulator and brushes are all in one pack on the 16v alternators (as you say same as golf2 16v) if you look on the end of the alt, it's the black round thing with two legs and two phillips head screws holding it in.

It's possible one of the diodes has gone down on the alternator which would mean a recon alternator, but it's worth swaping a new brush pack/ voltage regulator in first as they are not that expensive and only two phillips screws.

somewhere, it looks like a small flat 3 legged transistor about 1cm wide ah, here we are: vw_dash_voltage_stabaliser.gif[/attachment:9azkcg9o]

threats? ...threads :) check your track rod inner joints, where they screw into the rack under the rack rubber boots, probably sha99ed but it sounds like you have problems with the rack itself

excellent! well done mate! I remember you saying a couple of years back how you were starting to like the Bora too, sounds nice.

once you're moving it'll make no difference at all, and idling the engine's not going to make much heat anyway, plenty fitted to VR's and they get warm.

Between cooler and block I believe. Underside of the car now has some fine rust protection and I think that's where it's coming from. yeah, it's a fibre/paper type gasket and you should be able to get onto the allen bolts, but as toad said you'll also need to remove the filter and cooler first to get at the bracket bolts.