Yandards

@ Trig, you miss mine on the RR day - it is a G plate. @ Jim, spoiler did change Jim, activation speed on the VR's is higher :wink: . The clocks went to digi ones as of 31.07.90 based on build date, not when the car was registered, this is before the facelift. Both sunroof and electric windows were optional on the 16v and the G60 lhd that were imported. Central locking was standard on both models however. The cost for a sunroof was a whopping £590.53 inc VAT (although it may have been 15% then) and windows came to £536.96 and metallic or pearl effect paint adds another £249.17 to that bill. A 16v would cost you £16990.68, and a lhd G60 would set you back £19907.17. (Taken from 1990 VW model price list effective September 1989.) If you compare that to a 16v Mk II Golf then you had a sunroof as standard, was quicker and only cost £13443.79; you could fit the electric windows and leather interior for less than the price of a standard 16v C. As for the colours, many of the early cars again up to 31.07.90, had different colours; some of these seem to be unique to the corrado and are no longer available from VAG as paint touch up kits. The corrado colours were changed after that date and remained the same until cease of production. That should clear up most of those questions!

I'd get a new one when you stick the engine back together - that one is knackered!

Holy nutters Batman! Just where are the feds when you need them anyway? Would not suprise me if the two kids in question had nicked the car and where smashed out of their tiny little minds.

PMSL, that how you sell cars Baz?

Still on my 16 year old roof trims and they are just starting to get a bit manky on the edges. Best way to go is get it all smoothed, easier to polish the car that way.

Pig to tell the different blues from photos, they all look the same!

The XF bit refers to your type of interior trim. XF means cloth seats in blue/petrol colour, if your car is made before 31.07.90 then you have a G60, after that date it could be anything. As for the J9 and K9 bit these are sales codes, but which one is right I don't know. Without wishing to doubt you the boot sticker is normally found on the panel that the badge attach to, easy to miss sometimes.

Yup, really should be done every year to keep the car in top form, especially with the amount of knocks the suspension gets with the state of the roads. Should be paying around £60-80 a go for it, but like I posted earlier you do get a nice printout to keep and it means you will only have to keep your tyre pressures on spec to help with even tyre wear.

Early 1.8's do have less to go wrong, most have no ABS and no cat either. However, you wil be hard pressed to find a good one and 1.8 does have no real pull below 4k. I think Vince can do a mod to the WUR (warm up regulator) on the 1.8 that should give a healthy power boost up to around 150bhp. Due to the performance similarities between the 2 power plants it will really come down to do you prefer the early or late style and what condition the cars you look at is.

Top thread, where to start? After spending the last 5 years driving a 100 miles roundtrip commute across a selection of roads I have a few problems. I will overtake, and the constant velocity drivers (40 in a 60, 40 in a 30) are an annoyance; as well as driving at the same speed they are usually the ones that fail to understand roundabouts, indication and any form of observation aside from tunnel vision forward. Undertaking really grips my sh1t, personally I think it is the most dangerous thing you can do; too many people don't check the mirrors when overtaking so it's just a recipe for disaster. As for 'doing a line' much of my regular run involved roads where a queue would form behind a single lorry, as I like to know whats coming up I always look as far down the road as I can, as such I like to get up to the back of queue at overtaking speed when the road opens up to clear point. (The road is bendy but flat and you can see cars, bikes etc over the edges of the fields if you look) despite me being on the wrong side of the with indicators on, it soon becomes apparent that the mong at the back of the queue has failed to check his mirrors, failed to indicate and just wanders out into my path. Is what I have done incorrect? No I think that I have demonstrated good observation, correct overtaking procedure and energy efficient driving. Ultimately it all comes down to why most new cars are boring though, the vast majority of drivers see their cars as an extension of the house etc and a utility with a driving license being a right not a privilege. Driving is a skill that needs to be practised and should be concentrated on.

I was under the impression that all speed humps had to be a certain size and profile according to some regulation or other, mind you it would mean looking like a complete chimp with a tape measure to get one changed :wink: :roll:

Try to find a wheel alignment place that does all 4 wheels. Whilst the rear wheels on the C are not adjustable (Well they are but it involves shims) this may seem like a waste of time. But it does ensure the rear wheels are directly behind the front ones and I think most people would agree the car feels very planted post 4 wheel align. On top of that all the decent 4 wheel alignment systems will give you a printout of your settings and they are mounted on the rims not the tyres for a more accurate reading. If you do go for a 4 wheel align the figures given are designed to be used on a car in the following state: No spare wheel Empty fuel tank No tools Empty boot I realise an empty fuel tank may cause you problems but an estimate for that lot removed and a nearly empty tank compared to a full tank and bits will add around 70kg over the back axle. With the sensitivity of the 4 wheel alignment kit that can be enough to make the back end seem out.

Heh, this is an easy target for VR6 to move into the cuffties thread! :wink: Always nice to be remebered for a good reason.

PMSL

Its wasn't just Nick and me, BB and Dom were around too. Suprised Nick remebered the field he was not very observant that afternoon :wink:

PMSL

I'll er, get my coat :oops:

Thats what removal firms are for..

Nice but do they fold if they run over a cocktail stick? :wink:

Its not for MPH to kph etc as the MFAs are lhd or rhd specific, they are electrical contacts and do run to the main processor on the MFA looking at the tracks but I still have no idea what they are for.

Nice effort, all unmodified cars too

Well I have taken a spare set of clocks apart and consulted the blue books of much info with no joy. The connection is not listed in the wiring diagrams that I can see and I am confident I know where the oil buzzer is on the PCB. I am going to put some dosh on it being a factory test connection or for an obscure accessory like cruise control. Anyway piccies:

8 kilos is pretty good going, but considering the new aston sports pack for the db9 is toughted as losing a kilo per wheel for a 5% reduction at each corner. If I can loose a kilo per corner on 16's and then fit the lighter AP calliper and disc option then it should really make an impact on the unsprung mass. I think I will be heading down this route but not until after the house move, then the engine in etc etc. :?

About 150mph faster.. http://cars.msn.co.uk/carnews/carnews24apr06/ Must confess to liking the big flag painted on the back.

And thats car spotting for the enemy too!! :shock: Spotted a white G plate in Trowbridge today heading from Tescos towards the roundabout around 17:15, had some aftermarket rear lights but looked tidy.