Yandards

I think it is worth rembering that the newest of our cars is over 10 years old with the oldest being 16 now! If you get into any car that is the same age from that period you will probably be suprised how well the Corrado wears. As Kev said with an investment and a bit of work you can end up with a car that is a lot better than many of its peers today. Ninety-nine times out of a hundred the only reason something rattles on a C is because there is a trim clip broken or missing..

My car feels much more planted at high speeds (private roads of course) whereas before it was quite unnerving at really high speeds tended to wander a bit and my bushes were not that bad! Samm you will find that VAG suspension, springs & dampers, will cost you more than a set of Koni TA's and H&R springs for your car so you may want to reconsider that..

For those of you that don't know your colours please find a list below for model years along with your trim code. Its on the sticker in the boot or in your service handbook; last bit of bold text before the seeming random collection of numbers and letters.

Humn must be getting towards the end of the week :wink:

As long as you have a good look through the servicing to see what has been done when there is no reason that anything will need doing. However to get the car back to an as new state don't neglect the suspension and bushes, it will feel lousy if they haven't been changed since new. People continue to be overly twitchy about high mileage cars and it is not really an issue these days with the mechanics as long it has been properly maintained. Worst case you can always source a new engine from a scrapper with lower mileage.

See Roger Cook in the DIY stores around town sometimes as he lives near here bit of a chubby scrufy geezer. Had Rowan Atkinson turn up at work to catch a flight, didn't know he was coming and he had to wait a while to get in - really nice bloke though. Sultan of Brunai on one of his shopping trips - I have never seen so many top end mercs parked in the same space at once. Mind you I think he had about 20 artics worth of crap he had bought too..

Like the leather handbrake gaitor looks good from that angle. I take it the seats are not original in the car then if you have an early bonnet as they were only fitted in that colour for 22 months.

Very amusing, top line has to be "Dude you need to get a job" A note for all Video games aren't real life.. *puts down shotgun as there are no zombies*

Nice mate be good to get a proper look at it as I have seen the before version.

My only issue with alloy sumps is that they are not thermostat controlled, you could end in a situation where you are over cooling the oil in the winter. Kev is right about baffles though - just a bit of metal accross the width of the sump with some holes in it to allow flow but not too quickly would do it. The reason alloy sumps are more prone to cracking is the way they are made, alluminum is just as flexible as steel if not more so but as the steel sumps are pressed from a sheet and the alloy ones are cast this makes them weaker.

Blue grommets posted today, hope the diagnosis goes well!

I dunno Kev some of the backorder stuff is reappearing quite quickly for me a the moment. Problem with bits of trim etc is that they need to put it past the bean counters to see if they will let them make some, grr.

Ah bigpants, chris (2cc) has pointed your gaff out when we went through darkest BoA the other week! There is at least another 2 C's native to Trowbridge, another early blue one, and a red one that hangs around by Kwik Fit..

No problem, can't have a fellow C owner stuck down the road :wink:

Yeah should be its a 16v so its just a case of looking what is should be (have a haynes for a goof it will be in there) and twisting the dizzy to get it right. Westbury is only 5 mins away so if you want to give it a shot give me a ring on 01225 ******

Where abouts are you stuck I have a timing light if ya need one and are closeish.

Whoops, no its from here: http://www.radtec.co.uk/gallery.php?category=1 Looks like quite a slim line unit which can only be a good thing

Have just stumbled accross this while looking for an ally oil separator/breather/catch tank. Have e-mailed them to get sizes and connections but it looks like a good mod, anyone have one?

If you do billinjahg60 mnake sure get them to supply you with front mount alternator brackets. You will need a new alt as well though..

My flywheel is being balanced on the crank. I am having the stock flywheel lightened, balanced on crank, conrods balanced, camshafts and that big fat oil pump driveshaft all with the relevant pulleys on for just under £260. Guy that is doing it knows his stuff as he does a lot of odd engines, big block V8's etc and Honda BAR F1 wheels!!

Don't think I am ever going to understand what motivates people to stick another spoiler on the back of a Corrado :cuckoo: Don't like the lights either but as with all things 'styling' it's all about personal taste

I am getting my stock 228mm flywheel lightened at the moment. I am not worried about a higher idle or difficulty in pulling away as it is part of a supercharger conversion. The KR engine in the Golf has a 210mm flywheel and weighs around 6kg IIRC, the Corrado one is 228mm and about twice as heavy! Balancing the flywheel involves taking the 'manufacturing tolerances' out of the flywheel. As the flywheel is a rotating disc it needs to have the same weight distribution accross the whole wheel to prevent abnormal loading and vibration - much like getting you wheels balanced when you put new tyres on. This time same sections of the flywheel are drilled to balance it instead of adding weights. Most mass car manufacturers are not producing components that will run as well as they possibly can - it is expensive so they set tolerances based on cost V performance. A good example of this is a G60 throttle body or a cylinder head; a little work removing the casting marks and knife edging brings about good performance improvements. Hope that helps!

L reg VR6 down in Newquay this morning around 9:00 coming out of the morrisons car park.

Dark 16v reg was K6** MMR today at around 17:45 on the outskirts of Trowbridge. Nice clean looking car

After setting off from work and flicking the MFA onto the oil temp setting, as usual, to see when the car is warmed up I got to thinking if I was being overly anal. I try to keep the revs below 3k until the oil is over 80 degrees C and the throttle openings to less than half. So what I would like to know is: a. What temp do you let the oil/water get up to before you boot it? (If at all) b. Do you use WoT (Wide open throttle) before you get the car up to temp? Just a bit of fun be interesting to see what quirky habits we all have :lol: