Yandards

Its just a sign your bearings are shot, all the dead leaves etc tend to get stuck in the heater motor and mulch down over time rotting the bearings. Replacement item is not too expensive and it saves you having to change the thermal fuse on the resistor pack too.

Heater should be on full hot and full blow. Leave the cap off and keep topping up the coolant reservoir until around 75 deg C on the coolant temp gauge, then fill reservoir to max line, refit cap and take for a short drive. Let it cool down and refill coolant as required. If you leave the cap off too long the coolant boils and produces more air into the system.

Same info for you as well Riley. As the redborbet is fitting coilovers they will come with spring caps etc

Keep in mind that it is during the warm up process that the most modification is made to the G60s fuelling, engine temperature can add up ot 25% extra fuel at this point. It is worth checking the blue temp sensor is working correctly and the idle switch on the throttle body also works as required. If your AFR is working ok at low temperature then I would not worry too much, also keep in mind that the engine does not go onto lambda loop control until 70 deg C is reached.

Rears are available, from VW Heritage, as I said its a classic part item.

Could actually be a knackered water pump, partially blocked radiator, temperature sender or a thermostat. As you are seeing water temps that are high when driving around and not static there will be sufficient airflow over the radiator so the only thing that could be causing a high water temp is a false indication (which it won't be as the sensors tend to fail low not high due to the way they work) which only leaves the water pump, radiator or thermostat being knackered. 4 cylinder water pumps last around 100k-150k before requiring replacement and I would get a new thermostat and thermostat housing at the same time. For cleaning/flushing the block you need to remove the thermostat housing to do it properly without pressure kit or a lot of coolant sits at the bottom of the block and has no exit path due to it being blocked by the thermostat. Finally the refilling process, keep toping the reservoir up until it won't drain down, leave the cap off the reservoir, turn the heater controls up to full heat and full fan, start the car, top up the coolant level until it stabilises and then fast idle at 2000k rpm until you hit 75 deg of water temp on the gauge, then top up the reservoir to the max mark, refit the coolant cap and take it for a short drive. Let the engine cool down and then top up if required.

Items 7 & 2 from the top picture for the front suspension. Items 13 & 14 for the rear suspension, item 13 is a classic parts item. You can interchange early and late top mounts with ease although I find the early G60 style front top mounts to be a bit more hard wearing than the later VR6 style ones. Your coilovers should come with all the other relevant parts as they will have their own upper spring caps, bump stops etc.

There should be a '0' above that line - worth looking for if you can't see it to confirm that you only have the 0 deg mark and are not using the 6 deg BTDC mark that will be just a line.

You won't get it to run well without a timing light frankly. As for the distance from the 0 deg mark, the workshop manual states that 6 deg BTDC is 14.5mm to the left of the 0 deg mark.

It is possible to set up the car at 180 degrees out if you don't use the 0 deg timing mark on the flywheel, you can get all the dots aligned at the cambelt end but not have the flywheel at 0 deg BTDC as the bottom end of the engine requires 2 full rotations to every single rotation of the cam. The intermediate shaft on a G60 drives both the oil pump and the dizzy. The dizzy timing is only a rough set as you need to set it dynamically (engine running) at 4-8 BTDC at 2-2.5k RPM so aim for 4 deg BTDC at 2250 RPM, as such as long as the car starts and warms up the dizzy timing is ok on a 'static' timing setup until then. It is very difficult to correctly set the intermediate shaft pulley alignment as the inner wing gets in the way. Hope that clears that up.

Jaxone, all timing adjustments and checking are done with the BTS disconnected. Rev requirement comes from the digifant workshop manual video which states over 3k 3 times to put digi into setting mode. However, there is no mention of this in the G60 workshop manual or in the G60 workshop manual video. You do have to set the timing dynamically (ie engine running) at a rev range of 2-2.5k, at that point the timing needs to be 6 deg BTDC, so I usually aim for 2250 RPM at 6 deg BTDC as that is bang in the middle. As for your hot manifold, there is a chance you timing is 180 degrees out if that is happening, use the link mentioned above and read the entire thread about G60 timing.

Right, if the flywheel has been replaced then the VW supplied items only come with a '0' mark on them, it is up to the installer to mark out the timing mark on them. Spotting the mark on an old rusty flywheel is bloody difficult, best bet is to try TDC on the cambelt end (although this could be 180 degrees out at the flywheel end) and then use a flat bladed screwdriver to level the flywheel forward and backward a few degrees to see if you can see the timing mark. If you can't see it then rotate the cambelt end through a full revolution and check the flywheel end again. It is impossible to fit the flywheel around the wrong way or upside down as first of all it would stick on the block due to the offset and secondly it won't fit as the bolt hole pattern on the crankshaft to flywheel alignment is eccentric and will only go on one way. I have attached an image of the timing mark from a G60 (same flywheel) note that the best way to try and see the mark is with a good torch looking over the battery side of the engine bay. [ATTACH=CONFIG]72680[/ATTACH]

Doughboy, PM sent. G60 CS, its yours if Doughboy decides the shipping costs are daylight robbery!!

That depends on if you want your G60 to work or not. All the early Corrado engines have a similar sensor used for coolant fan run on, they also run the fuel pump on the G60 to prevent fuel vapourisation issues as well. So I would recommend you have one or your coolant fan won't run when you turn the car off.

I am selling a CNC Heads G60 standard valve, full info on the performance gains can be found here: CNC G60 Head I bought this to go on my nugget G60 but when fitted discovered a little too much had been removed from the head height and the valve would not fully close causing no compression. This could have been easily rectified by either re-grinding the camshaft to suit or having the valve stems milled down slightly, as I was 500 miles from home at the time and needed the car in a running condition on the following day to go back on my course. Given that this head currently needs a friendly machine shop to get it working I am looking for less than half what it would cost you exclusive of VAT for the whole thing, £250 plus the postage. No photos handy but strangely enough it looks like a cylinder head. Please note that you will see a reduction in boost pressure when running this head on a G60 as it will give a large increase in flow, which means more power.

Up for sale is a complete black leather interior for an early car. It has been dry stored in my loft for the last 18 months and was dry stored for 7 years prior to that by the guy I bought it from, it was originally from a G60 that was broken. I bought this with intention of fitting it to my nugget G60 but I then decided to sell and as no-one seem to want to buy it the leather interior was not fitted. It is in very good condition with little wear on the bolsters as can be seen in the photos, there some lifting of the leather from the door/ rear quarter cards around the edges but some glue will sort that and once refitting into the car you won't see that. The seats are not heated but I think you will struggle to find an original set of leather in this condition now. I am after what I paid for the set which is £450. Downside, postage will be at the buyers expense but you are welcome to collect from IV30 5QL.. [ATTACH=CONFIG]72656[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72657[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72658[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72659[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72660[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72671[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72670[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72669[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72668[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72667[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72666[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72665[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72664[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72663[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72662[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72661[/ATTACH]

Plans are afoot Jim, fairly large ones in fact. So yes, it will live and properly this time not just a couple of trips down the M6!!

Switch can be stripped down if you are careful, probably just corroded contacts.

Well it seem to be March already. After a hiatus last year of not really doing very much with the car this year plans are afoot. 1st of these is now mocked up, I have some EL string on order to illuminate the odometer and trip meters as they don't show up properly (camera was on a long exposure). The green filter has been removed from the MFA so I need to see if a standard bulb looks ok or if I need an LED item instead. Then I just need to tidy up the wiring, pick up a 12v supply in car and the loom it in nicely. Only pictures of the clocks so far but there is a set of heater controls. [ATTACH=CONFIG]72629[/ATTACH] Not sure if I will need to go with the illuminated needles yet or not, that would be more obvious and as per usual for me I am trying to keep the changes very subtle and not easy to spot at first glance (during the day with this mod only!!)

Nope you can, part number 037 145 299 yours for £107.88 inc VAT direct from your main dealer.

The RHD late model heater controls are showing up on ETKA as being a classic part now, 536 819 045, it just may not have filtered into the classic parts availability catalogue yet.

VW rule, badge changeover along with the other facelift items was gradual over a 12 month period, the important thing here is that the 'Corrado' rear badge is body coloured so the model badges should be in red.

Its also worth noting that the presence of boost return will see oil in the boost line as it scavenges the engine crankcase cases from the top of the cylinder head along the boost return line. As others have said it could go at any moment but I would want to see a stock air filter fitted, the boost return system still in place and I would inspect the chargers tooth belt for signs of failure/degredation. Apart from that it should be good to go.

Nice work but it needs a clean!!

Dependant on model, but it is roughly in the same area, look at the O/S/F of the car, at the underside of the bumper, if you look at the lower grille area you should see a bulb shaped piece of plastic through the grille.