coolrado

Get an I/O module for the pc and the heater ducting from a car with climatronic and use the pc to control the heaters. Or fit the climatronic ducting and use a climatronic control panel like i did. Or get longer heater control cables from a different car and cut them to length so you can move the controls. remove the surround from the screen, use fibreglass or plastic filler to mould into the heater control panel and fill the gaps at the sides and get it painted the same colour as the rest of the dash.

As much as i love the corrado I'm afraid I would keep the MK1 and sell the corrado, or find a way to keep both (I hear the market for spare kidneys is strong at the moment) the MK1 is an all time design classic and i can't really see the corrado ever being as sought after as the MK1 unfortunately.

^^^^appears to be for a left hand drive, pattern should be a mirror image for right hand drive. hellainstructions mirror.jpg[/attachment:2zy81ac0] :lol:

If it's the fine lines that are causing the problems, could you not try the same design but just a bit bigger? I would be perfectly happy with a keyring twice that size, I already have a couple of big stainless keyrings and i prefer them to be honest, it makes it harder for me to lose them. how about the more detailed corrado design but in an oval keyring like the section 5 ones you did?

RM's come seriously close to the standard 280mm calipers, both on the rear of the face and the inside of the basket, they had to fit lower profile wheel weights to the inside of the buckets when they balanced mine as the normal ones hit the calipers, there is only a few mm of space.

One of the most common causes is blocked scuttle panel drain holes, mk1 golf suffered the same problem and so does the passat b5/5.5. simple to sort out, just pull the dead leaves, twigs and gunk out of the rubber drain hole grommets, job done.

you can get a special tool to fit them, but I wouldnt worry too much about torqueing them down as long as they are tight, but you could use the tool on the slotted nut and use the torque wrench on the allen key in the opposite direction. are they new genuine top mounts or patern part ones?

yes the slotted nut should be tightened all the way down, this clamps the lower part of the bearing.

You mean they dont work either?

Time for a bump on this, new series starts next sunday, and from the preview it looks like a corker! LINKY

It is normal for there to be a gap but not too much, a rough check is the rule of thumb, if you can fit your finger in the gap it's ok but if you can fit your thumb in the gap the topmount is worn out, the picture above does look a bit high though and it does look like the rubber has started to seperate from the metal on the right hand side of the picture, it's also normal for the top plate to turn with the steering, you need to worry if they dont turn as it usually means the bearing has seized and can lead to snapped springs.

:lol: one of them is more than enough to worry about :pale: would be 8) though

well I picked up another charger from Rob (Rustynuts) on here and stripped it down last night, its a later charger (1992 according to the stamps on the case) my old one was a 1989 and it seems like they changed the design of the displacer, this one has extra strengthening at the ends where mine had cracked so there was obviously a design flaw with the old ones. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfdisplacers.JPG[/attachment:13ghycs3] Rob did say the charger had leaky seals and he wasn't joking, whoever had re-built it had used nitrile seals, which had all gone brittle and cracked. the charger has also had a bit of porting done to it but it's a bit rough so i'm going to use my case with this displacer. old new case.JPG[/attachment:13ghycs3] I ordered a full set of seals and bearings this morning so it should be back on the road next weekend.

The way i saw this being done was to cover the whole wheel face with masking tape and then a wallpaper knife (which has a very short blade so only cuts the tape without touching the wheel surface) with a bit of string was attached to the centre of the wheel, then he simply ran the knife around the wheel a couple of times keeping the string tight, to cut a thin stripe. I suppose you could do the same with a pen just to mark it out first, you can also get holts paint pens which are ideal for this sort of thing.

Looks a bit jap style but in this case on a black car i think it works very well.

yes it is :D I did this again a few months ago with my wider rims, I bought a full set of 2" rims for dirt cheap as they where badly laquered and corroded, after an afternoon of polishing they where spotless with a mirror finish, it's quicker, you get a perfect uniform finish, and there is no risk involved as long as the vehicle is secure, i used my van on axle stands and a couple of big blocks of teak wood underneath, and a ratchet strap attached to a fence post just incase. and as i said as long as you only polish the surface that is spinning away from you there is NO risk of losing a finger, even if you touch the spokes.

The indicators may be a completely seperate issue to the running issues, and as mentioned some of the relays do get a bit warm which is normal, have you tried a replacement indicator relay, or is there definatley a bad connection in the fuse box? the alternator light will usually come on when the revs drop too low which is also normal, are you sure the running issue is not ISV or fuel related?

yeah i have to agree, I never had a problem with the standard belt, but since iv'e had the toothed belt i have lost 2 chargers, gone through several belts and had to completely re-build the engine with a replacement block, might just be coincidence but would rather not risk it. nah i have the boost return removed, and the BBM boost pipe kit fitted so it's certainly flowing properly, i'm pretty sure the toothed belt kit is to blame as the belt stripped some of it's teeth the previous week, so the charger will have gone from stalled, to instantly spinning as the remaining teeth engaged. After talking to a few people i know in the machine automation and pumping industries they seem to agree, and also said the toothed drive will not reduce wear on the charger bearings but may actually increase it as the tension needed to prevent the belt from jumping teeth is similar to the tension of the ribbed belt, and the small amount of belt slip with the standard belt would probably help protect the charger from shock.

I'm assuming you are using alcantara, or faux suede, as real suede is animal hide and quite expensive. should look nice though.

The Octane of petrol is measured in RON (Research Octane Number), they are the same thing. Tesco is supposedly 99 RON and V-power is suposedly 98 RON. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating I just dont like supermarket fuel, i had a tank full from sainsbury's that turned out to be mostly water, so myself and quite a few people in the local area had to have their tanks drained, supermarkets also seem to be the ones in the news when contaminants like silicone are found in the fuel.

I dont think it's fixable, unless someone knows someone who can do inert atmosphere magnesium welding, but personally i wouldn't trust a repaired displacer, and it would need to be balanced, I can't say 100% that it was the toothed belt that caused it, but this is the second charger that has died while not being thrashed since i have had the toothed drive, and its left me stranded 3 times so far when the belt has let go, an uprated belt did last 3 times longer than the Gates HTD belt that came with it, but i never had a problem with the ribbed belt. For the tiny bit of a difference the toothed belt makes it's just not worth the hastle.

noticed an odd buzzing noise at mid revs the other day on the way home, popped the bonnet and the noise was coming from the charger :pale: starting to get a bit sick of this unpredictable time bomb. DSC_0129.JPG[/attachment:14wyhzvk] seems the displacer is a bit buggered :bad-words: it's cracked about half way around its length, lucky it didn't break apart completely really as the last time the charger went it sucked half of it into the engine and screwed that as well. I'm also starting to think the toothed belt kit may be to blame, the last time the belt failed it had stripped half the teeth, so the charger may have suffered some serious shock as the belt slipped then re-engaged on the remaining teeth, so i'm getting rid of the toothed belt kit and going back to ribbed, i just dont trust it anymore, after looking around on the net it seems quite a few people have had problems with the toothed belt kits.

That's what I thought at first but I can't seem to find any reference to anything that could check the condition of the cat or check the emissions post cat, it just seems unlikely that a catalytic converter warning light would be needed as they don't tend to go wrong very often, it may be something to do with US emissions laws though???

the extra display appears to be something to do with the automatic gear box, probably just a gear selection indicator. Dunno what the LED is for though, maybe it stands for "Check Automatic Transmission" the two to the right of it are just blanks like ours though.

the rubber boot is just a dust seal and shouldnt come into contact with the fluid, so if fluid is leaking out, the internal seal has also gone, so you will need a new slave cylinder.